THE  LIBRARY 

OF 

THE  UNIVERSITY 

OF  CALIFORNIA 

SANTA  BARBARA 

COLLEGE 

PRESENTED  BY 

William  B.  RoLerts 


- 


MAKING  TIN  CAN  TOYS 


MAKING  TIN  CAN  TOYS 


BY 

EDWARD  THATCHER 

ORIGINATOR   OF   TIN   CAN   TOYS  AND  INSTRUCTOR  OF  METAL 

WORKING,    TEACHERS   COLLEGE,    COLUMBIA    UNIVERSITY 

NEW   YORK   CITY,    1904-1919 


DRAWINGS  MADE  AND  THE 
AUTHOR'S  MODELS  PAINTED 
By  ISABEL  THATCHER 


PHILADELPHIA  AND   LONDON 
J.  B.  LIPPINCOTT  COMPANY 


PRINTED   BY   J.    B.    LTPPINCOTT  COMPANY 

AT  THE  WASHINGTON  SQUARE  PRESS 

PHILADELPHIA,  U.  S.  A. 


TS 


T7 

69127 


INTRODUCTION 

TIN  can  toys  were  invented  after  a  fruitless 
search  of  the  toy  shops  for  a  large  tin  locomotive.  I 
had  a  long  can  in  my  shop  at  home  that  I  thought 
could  be  very  easily  worked  up  into  a  toy  locomotive 
boiler  by  adding  a  few  fittings,  such  as  a  piece  of  tin 
rolled  up  into  the  form  of -a  smokestack.  Part  of  a 
small  can  could  be  used  for  a  steam  dome,  or  I  could 
use  the  top  part  of  a  certain  tooth-powder  can,  the 
distributor  top  of  which  would  look  very  much  like  a 
whistle.  A  cocoa  tin  came  in  very  handy  for  a  cab, 
and  a  thumb-tack  box  served  for  a  headlight.  The 
wheels  were  made  of  can  lids  soldered  together,  and 
the  toy  locomotive  was  made,  much  to  the  joy  of  my 
very  young  son,  who  has  had  it  in  constant  service 
for  over  a  year,  and  it  is  still  good  for  many  trips  at 
the  end  of  a  string. 

I  had  always  used  tin  cans  for  making  such  ar- 
ticles as  water  motors,  glue  pots,  melting  ladles, 
mooring  buoys  for  model  yachts,  etc.,  but  the  loco- 
motive was  the  first  toy,  made  wholly  from  tin  cans, 
that  I  had  produced,  and  this  suggested  other  toys, 
steam  roller  was  next  made. 

I  found  that  the  cans  lend  themselves  very  easily 


UNIVERSITY  OP  CALIFORNIA 
SANTA  BARBARA  COLLEGE  LIBRARY 


2  INTRODUCTION 

to  the  making  of  toys,  so  much  of  the  work  being 
already  done. 

The  materials  used  to  make  these  toys  are  plenti- 
ful and  inexpensive — cans  are  everywhere.  The 
tools  needed  are  few  and  easy  to  use,  and  I  found 
that  so  many  different  and  amusing  durable  toys 
could  be  made  from  used  tin  cans,  and  also  that 
everyone  seemed  to  have  such  fun  making  the  toys, 
that  I  decided  to  use  them  for  teaching  purposes. 

Tin  can  toy  making  has  been  thoroughly  tried 
out  in  a  grade  school  under  a  very  able  teacher,  who 
understands  making  them.  Pupils  of  ten,  eleven  and 
twelve  years  of  age  have  proved  that  these  toys  are 
easy  to  make,  and  many  schools  now  have  the  work 
well  established. 

The  steam  roller,  shown  in  Plate  XI,  was  made 
by  a  boy  of  ten  after  a  model  which  I  made  for  it. 
This  same  boy  developed  quite  a  trade  of  his  own  by 
soldering  up  various  pieces  of  tinware  for  his  mother 
and  the  neighbors. 

But,  better  still,  working  with  the  tin  cans  has 
developed  the  inventive  faculties  of  my  class  to  a 
surprising  degree.  The  pupils  have  thought  out  and 
made  many  models  of  their  own — not  only  toys  but 
useful  things  as  well.  Various  members  of  the  class 
investigated  the  large  trucks,  automobiles,  hoisting 
engines,  locomotives,  boats  and  such  things  seen  in 


INTRODUCTION  3 

any  water-front  community,  to  see  how  they  were 
made  and  how  they  worked,  and  why.  These  pupils 
then  returned  to  the  school  shops  and  made  models 
of  their  own,  many  of  which  showed  considerable 
invention  and  ingenuity. 

I  decided  to  teach  the  Occupational  Aides  in  my 
classes  at  Columbia  University  how  to  make  these 
toys,  so  that  they  in  turn  could  teach  the  wounded 
soldiers  in  the  hospitals. 

It  is  a  great  pleasure  to  know  that  as  this  book 
goes  to  press  many  a  wounded  soldier  has  been  and 
is  still  being  amused  and  benefited  by  making  the 
tin  can  toys  here. 

But  the  making  of  tin  can  toys  is  by  no  means 
limited  to  hospitals  and  schools.  Any  one  who  cares 
to  tinker,  to  handle  tools,  to  use  up  waste  materials, 
may  find  pleasure  and  profit  from  assembling  tin 
cans  and  parts  of  them.  Many  useful  and  attrac- 
tive things  may  be  made  for  the  home,  shop,  or  camp. 

I  have  found  it  quite  possible  to  make  many 
decorative  things  from  tin  cans,  and  for  some  years 
I  have  made  lanterns,  candlesticks,  sconces  and  trays 
of  all  kinds.  The  shape  of  the  cans  themselves  lends 
them  to  decoration  when  assembled  by  a  person  hav- 
ing a  sense  of  design  and  proportion. 

There  is  nothing  weak  or  flimsy  about  a  well- 
made  tin  can  toy.  A  strip  of  flat  tin  is  very  easily 


4  INTRODUCTION 

bent;  if  that  same  strip  of  tin  is  bent  at  right  angles 
through  its  whole  length,  like  the  angle  iron  encoun- 
tered in  structural  iron  work,  it  will  be  found  to  be 
remarkably  stiff. 

Bend  up  an  angle  on  each  side  of  a  strip  of  tin, 
like  a  channel  iron  used  in  buildings ;  it  will  sustain 
a  remarkable  load. 

I  have  used  the  common  forms  employed  in 
structural  steel  for  building  up  the  toys  shown  in 
this  book  with  the  result  that  they  are  surprisingly 
solid  and  durable,  though  made  entirely  from  cans  or 
the  tin  taken  from  flattened-out  cans  and  boxes. 

No  rough  or  sharp  edges  are  left  about  these 
toys.  The  edges  of  a  piece  of  tin  may  be  folded 
over  or  "  hemmed  " — or  a  folded  strip  of  tin  may 
be  slipped  over  an  edge  that  needs  strengthening. 
Thus  all  danger  of  cutting  the  fingers  or  of  thin 
edges  being  bent  out  of  shape  is  done  away  with. 

Although  made  of  tin,  there  need  be  nothing 
"  tinny  "  about  a  well-made,  well-painted  tin  can  toy. 

Very  few  and  very  simple  tools  are  required  for 
the  work  and  the  solder,  soldering  flux,  rivets,  wire 
and  paint  are  very  inexpensive  items,  as  so  little 
need  be  used  for  each  piece  produced. 

Soldering  is  by  far  the  most  important  of  the 
operations  involved  in  tin  can  toy  making.  But 
it  is  very  simple,  once  it  is  understood.  When  the 


INTRODUCTION  5 

principles  that  govern  the  process  of  soldering  are 
thoroughly  mastered  there  is  no  difficulty  at  all  about 
it.  Chapters  IV  and  V  should  be  thoroughly  read 
and  re-read  before  trying  to  solder,  and  at  least  two 
practice  pieces  well  soldered  together  before  going 
any  further. 

Since  the  tin  can  toys  were  introduced  into  my 
classes  at  college  I  have  taught  more  than  two  hun- 
dred pupils  how  to  make  them.  Many  of  these  pupils 
had  little  or  no  experience  with  tools  and  had  never 
expected  to  have  any  until  the  war  came  along  and 
changed  the  ideas  of  many  people  as  to  their  ability 
to  work  with  their  hands.  I  have  yet  to  encounter 
a  pupil  who  could  not  solder  after  a  very  short 
period  of  instruction. 

Look  at  the  end  of  a  small  olive  oil  can  or  the 
end  of  a  tin  commonly  used  to  contain  cocoa,  then 
think  of  the  shape  of  the  radiator  and  hood  of  the 
modern  automobile.  The  shape  of  the  can  and  the 
shape  of  the  hood  of  the  automobile  are  very  much 
alike.  A  few  holes  punched  in  the  end  of  the  can  in 
regular  rows  transform  it  into  a  miniature  radiator 
in  appearance,  and  some  slits  cut  in  the  side  of  the 
can  look  very  much  like  the  vents  in  the  side  of  a  real 
auto  hood.  Solder  the  cap  of  a  tooth-paste  or  paint 
tube  in  place  over  the  radiator,  and  the  hood  and 
radiator  are  completed. 


6  INTRODUCTION 

To  have  formed  up  a  hood  of  this  sort  from  a 
plain  sheet  of  metal  would  have  taken  far  more  skill 
than  the  average  tinker  is  likely  to  possess,  but  you 
have  it  ready  made  in  the  can,  and  this  is  the  whole 
idea  of  tin  can  toy  building. 

Less  than  half  of  a  rectangular  two-quart  can 
used  for  a  certain  cooking  oil  makes  up  into  a  truck 
body  so  like  the  bodies  on  the  real  trucks  that  it 
would  be  difficult  to  find  or  make  one  more  like  them. 

Many  different  kinds  of  boats  that  will  really 
float  may  be  made  from  mackerel  and  herring  tins 
which  are  usually  made  in  the  shape  of  boats.  Two 
mackerel  tins  soldered  together  suggest  the  fighting 
tank.  Only  a  little  work  is  necessary  to  transform 
these  cans  into  real  toys. 

Long  cylindrical  cans  suggest  boilers  for  toy 
locomotives,  hoisting  and  traction  engines,  steam 
rollers  and  the  like. 

Wheels  for  rolling  stock  may  be  made  from  cans 
or  the  can  lids.  Small  adhesive  tape  boxes  make 
excellent  headlights  or  searchlights  and  also  pilot 
houses  for  tiny  tug  boats.  Bottle  caps,  thumb-tack 
boxes,  and  the  small  screw  tops  of  olive  or  cooking 
oil  cans  suggest  head,  side  and  tail  lights  for  toy 
automobiles,  and  many  other  things. 

Aside  from  the  pleasure  derived  from  the  actual 
making  of  tin  can  toys,  perhaps  the  greatest 


INTRODUCTION  7 

satisfaction  lies  in  the  fact  that  you  are  using  ma- 
terial usually  thrown  away — making  something  out 
of  nothing. 

And  so  this  book  is  offered  to  tinkers  by  a  tinker 
with  the  hope  that  they  may  get  some  of  the  pleasure 
out  of  it  that  he  has  had  in  writing  it. 

EDWARD  THATCHER. 

Woodstock,  Ulster  County,  New  York. 
September,  1919. 


EXTRACT  FROM  A  LETTER  WRITTEN 

TO  THE  AUTHOR  BY  A  FORMER  PUPIL 

MRS.  CLYDE  M.  MYERS 

RECONSTRUCTION  AIDE,  DIRECTOR  OF  THE  RED 
CROSS  WORK  SHOP  FOR  PATIENTS  AT  NEUROLOGICAL 
BASE  HOSPITAL  1 17,  LA  FAUCHE,  HAUTE  MARNE,  FRANCE 

"  The  hospital  was  new  and  its  needs  were  many. 
We  began  work  the  day  after  our  arrival  and  by  the 
time  our  small  equipment  was  unpacked  (Mrs. 
Myers  refers  here  to  her  own  personal  equipment 
of  tools  which  was  necessarily  a  small  one  as  it  was 
brought  from  America.  The  hospital  shops  were 
not  equipped  with  tools  until  after  the  Aides  had 
established  the  work  and  decided  on  the  necessary 
tools  needed),  requests  were  coming  in  from  all 
quarters  of  the  hospital  for  us  to  make  everything 
from  tables  and  dishes  to  doughnut  cutters.  There 
was  such  a  lack  of  material  that  the  problem  of  mak- 
ing them  could  have  been  solved  by  nothing  less  than 
ingenuity  of  the  American  soldier  and  the  ever  pres- 
ent tin  can  pile. 

"  Some  old  French  hospital  beds  found  on  the 
salvage  heap  were  quickly  converted  into  work 
benches.  It  was  then  that  the  tin  can  ceased  to  be  a 
thing  to  be  burned  and  buried  and  came  into  its  own. 

"  Our  first  need  was  a  charcoal  furnace  to  heat 


io    LETTER  FROM  MRS.  CLYDE  M.  MYERS 

our  soldering  coppers.  This  was  made  from  two 
large  square  tins  with  an  interlining  of  brick.  A 
bit  of  an  old  grate  completed  this  perfectly  good 
furnace  which  served  us  well  for  many  months. 

"  The  wants  of  the  kitchen  were  next  considered. 
For  washing  dishes  we  made  three  huge  wooden 
tubs  2  by  2^  by  6  feet.  The  lining  and  drain 
pipes  for  these  were  made  from  several  large  tin 
cans.  As  the  size  of  the  hospital  increased  there  was 
a  constant  demand  for  such  things  as  biscuit  pans, 
doughnut  cutters,  funnels,  potato  graters,  vegetable 
strainers,  soap  dishes  and  other  small  necessities. 

"  For  the  officers'  wards,  barracks,  and  recrea- 
tion hut,  we  made  tin  candlesticks,  flower  holders, 
ash  trays,  electric  light  shades,  tea  trays,  desk  sets, 
and  filing  boxes.  All  of  which  were  not  only  useful 
but  quite  ornamental,  as  they  were  attractively 
painted  and  decorated  by  the  patients.  The  soldiers 
took  great  interest  in  the  making  of  mechanical 
toys,  especially  war-like  ones,  such  as  tanks,  aero- 
planes, cannon  and  army  trucks. 

"  The  reflectors  for  the  foot  lights  of  the  stage 
in  the  Red  Cross  Recreation  Hut  were  made  of  tin 
cans.  The  end-men  in  the  minstrel  show  were  quite 
gay  in  tin  can  hats — what  could  have  been  more 
simple — a  tin  brim  with  an  inverted  butter  can  for 
a  crown,  gaudily  painted  and  beribboned ! 

"  The  princess  in  the  Christmas  play  was  in  need 
of  shining  armor.  Half  circles  of  tin  overlapping 


PLATE  I 


Courtesy  Pictorial  Revi, 


Wounded  soldiers  at  work 


LETTER  FROM  MRS.  CLYDE  M.  MYERS    n 

each  other  not  only  served  the  purpose  but  were 
glitteringly  gorgeous.  The  Three  Kings  in  the  play 
were  badly  in  need  of  crowns;  three  oatmeal  tins 
were  beautifully  fashioned  into  kingly  headdresses 
for  them. 

"  The  Christmas  tree  was  brilliant  with  hun- 
dreds of  stars,  diamonds,  and  crescents,  and  candle 
holders,  which  was  the  final  contribution  of  our 
much  sought  and  never  failing  friend,  the  tin  can 
pile,  as  the  hospital  was  evacuated  soon  afterwards. 

"  I  have  had  entire  charge  of  the  work  and  have 
taught  the  other  Aides  the  tin  can  work,  as  it  was  a 
most  necessary  thing  for  them  to  know.  Many  of 
these  Aides  were  sent  to  other  hospital  workshops 
and  introduced  the  work  there." 

MRS.  CLYDE  M.  MYERS,  R.A. 


CONTENTS 


INTRODUCTION 5 

EXTRACT  FROM  A  LETTER  WRITTEN  FROM  FRANCE 
BY  MRS.  CLYDE  M.  MYERS,  R.A 13 

I.  TIN  CANS 19 

VARIOUS  KINDS  OF  CANS  AND  BOXES — PREPARING 
CANS  FOR  THE  WORK — CUTTING  IN  AND  OPENING 
OUT  CANS  AND  BOXES 

II.  TOOLS  AND  APPLIANCES 28 

TOOL  LISTS  AND  COSTS — LAYING  OUT  AND  MARK- 
ING OFF  WORK — SHOP  APPLIANCES 

III.  MAKING  A  BISCUIT  CUTTER  FROM  A  SMALL  CAN..     44 

CUTTING  THE  CAN  TO  SIZE  FOR  BISCUIT  CUTTER — 
PUNCHING  A  HOLE  IN  TIN — FORMING  THE  HANDLE 
— FOLDING — MAKING  A  SUGAR  SCOOP  BY  THE  SAME 
METHOD 

IV.  SOLDERING 54 

SOFT  SOLDER — SHEET  TIN — THE  PROCESS  OF 
SOLDERING — HEATING  APPARATUS — ELECTRICAL 
SOLDERING  COPPERS — THE  COMMON  SOLDERING  COP- 
PER— FLUXES — TINNING  THE  COPPER — HEATING 

V.  SOLDERING  (Continued) 71 

PREPARING    A    JOINT    FOR     SOLDERING — CLEANING 

AND    SCRAPING SOLDERING   A    PRACTICE    PIECE — 

SOLDERING  THE  HANDLE  TO  THE  BISCUIT  CUTTER 
— A  SECOND  PRACTICE  PIECE — ANOTHER  METHOD 
OF  APPLYING  SOLDER 

VI.  COOKY  CUTTERS 79 

THE  PINE  TREE  DESIGN — CUTTING  NARROW  STRIPS 
OF  TIN — BENDING  TO  SHAPE  OVER  DESIGN — 
SOLDERING  COOKY  CUTTERS — THE  HANDLE 

VII.  TRAYS 86 

TURNING   OVER    EDGES    ON    ROUND    TRAYS — USING 
THE    FORMING    MALLET — MAKING    AN    ASH     TRAY 
AND   MATCH   BOX   HOLDER 
2  13 


i4  CONTENTS 


VIII.  A  TRAY  CANDLESTICK 94 

THE  CANDLE  SOCKET — CUTTING  A  HOLE  IN  THE 
DRIP  CUP — MAKING  THE  HANDLE 

IX.  RIVETING 100 

MAKING  A  PAIL  FROM  A  TIN  CAN — CUTTING  AWAY 
THE  SURPLUS  TIN  AT  THE  RIM — FORMING  THE 
LUGS  FOR  THE  HANDLE — RIVETING  THE  LUGS  IN 
POSITION — FORMING  A  WIRE  HANDLE 

X.  MAKING  A  TOY  AUTO  TRUCK 107 

FOUR  WAYS  OF  MAKING  WHEELS  OF  TIN  CANS: 
MAKING  A  WHEEL  FROM  A  CAN  WITH  SOLDERED 

ENDS MAKING   WHEELS   FROM    ROLLED    RIM   CANS 

— TWO  TYPES  OF  WHEELS  MADE  FROM  CAN  LIDS 

XI.  MAKING  A  TOY  AUTO  TRUCK  (Continued) 118 

FORMING  THE  CHASSIS — USING  THE  WOODEN 
ROOFING  FOLDER — FOLDING — USING  THE  VISE 
FOR  SHORT  FOLDING — USING  THE  HATCHET  STAKE 
FOR  FOLDING 

XII.  MAKING  A  TOY  AUTO  TRUCK  (Continued) 127 

MAKING  THE  HOOD  AND  RADIATOR — CUTTING  THE 
VENTS — SOLDERING  ON  THE  FILLER  CAP 

XIII.  MAKING  A  TOY  AUTO  TRUCK  (Continued).. 135 

THE     DASH-BOARD — THE     SEAT — ASSEMBLING     THE 

TRUCK SPRINGS SOLDERING     THE     WHEELS     ON 

THE  AXLES — STRIP  WASHERS 

XIV.  MAKING  A  TOY  AUTO  TRUCK  (Continued) 146 

TRUCK  BODIES — DIFFERENT  TYPES  OF  BODIES  TO 
BE  FITTED  TO  THE  SAME  CHASSIS — THE  TANK 
TRUCK — THE  STREET  SPRINKLER — THE  COAL  OR 
SAND  TRUCK — THE  ARMY  TRUCK — THE  AMBU- 
LANCE— THE  FIRE  ENGINE 

XV.  MAKING  A  TOY  AUTO  TRUCK  (Continued) 157 

THE  STARTING  CRANK — THE  STEERING  WHEEL 
AND  COLUMN — MUD  GUARDS  AND  RUNNING  BOARDS 
— LIGHTS,  TOOL  BOXES,  HORNS,  ETC.. — DRIVERS* 
CABS 

XVI.  BOATS 166 

THE  ROWBOAT — THE  SAILBOAT — THE  SCOW — THE 
TUGBOAT — THE  BATTLESHIP — THE  FERRYBOAT 


CONTENTS  15 

XVII  A  TOY  LOCOMOTIVE 174 

THE  FRAME— BOILER — CAB — WHEELS — CYLINDERS 
AND  CONNECTING  RODS — THE  SMOKESTACK,  STEAM 
DOME  AND  WHISTLE,  SAND  BOX  AND  HEADLIGHT — 
CARS — A  PASSENGER  CAR  AND  SOME  OTHERS 

XVIII.  SIMPLE  MECHANICAL  TOYS 182 

WATER  WHEELS  AND  SANDMILLS — A  SIMPLE  STEAM 
TURBINE  AND  BOILER — A  WINDMILL  AND  TOWER 
— AEROPLANE  WEATHERVANE 

XIX.  CANDLESTICKS Iy2 

WALL  SCONCES  AND  A  LANTERN 

XX.  CAMP  AND  KITCHEN  EQUIPMENT 195 

A  COFFEE  POT — BOILING  PAILS — FRYING  PAN — 
TOASTER — A  CAMP  SHOWER  BATH — CANTEEN  OR 
HOT  WATER  BOTTLE — A  MATCH  BOX 

XXI.  PREPARING  THE  TOYS  FOR  PAINTING 200 

REMOVING  SURPLUS  SOLDER  WITH  SCRAPERS — 
MAKING  A  HOE  SCRAPER — PLUMBERS1  AND  ROOF- 
ERS' SCRAPERS — SCRAPING  AND  FILING — BOILING 
THE  TOYS  IN  A  LYB  BATH — VENT  HOLES 

XXII.  NOTES  ON  PAINTING  THE  TOYS ,  ..  206 


ILLUSTRATIONS 

PACK 

Army   Truck   Constructed   Entirely   from   Used 

Tin  Cans Frontispiece 

I.  Wounded  Soldiers  at  Work 10 

II.  Army  Truck  and  Tin  Cans  Used  to  Make  It 22 

III.  The  Raw  Material  from  Which  Many  of  the  Toys 

Shown  in  This  Book  Were  Made 23 

IV.  Scribing  a  Line  Around  a  Can  with  the  Dividers. 

Cutting  Along  the  Joint  to  Open  a  Can.    Cut- 
ting   from    Right    to    Left'   with    the    Straight 

Shears.    Cutting  to  the  Line,  Right  to  Left  ...  22 

V.  Author  at  Work 23 

VI.  The  Tools  Needed  for  Tin  Can  Toy  Making 32 

VII.  Biscuit  Cutters.     Soldering   44 

VIII.  Cooky  Cutter,  Tray  Candle-stick  and  Ash  Trays 

Made  by  the  Author  84 

IX.  Steam  Rollers  116 

X.  Dumping  Truck  and  Chassis  of  Toy  Auto  Truck.  120 

XL  Chassis  of  Toy  Auto  Truck  and  Dumping^  Truck.  121 

XII.  Wooden  Roofing  Folder  120 

XIII.  Oil  Tank  Truck  and  Toy  Ford 152 

XIV.  Red  Cross  Ambulance  153 

XV.  Boats 170 

XVI.  A  Simple  Toy  Locomotive,  a  Sand  or  Water  Mill 

and  the  First  Tin  Can  Toy 174 

XVII.  Steam  Tractor  and  Gun  175 

XVIII.  Aeroplane  Weathervanes    188 

XIX.  Lantern  and  Fighting  Tank 192 

XX.  A  Toy  Tin  Can  Kitchen  196 

XXI.  A  Doll's  Bathroom  and  a  Tin  Can  Laundry 197 


MAKING  TIN  CAN  TOYS 

CHAPTER  I 

TIN  CANS 

VARIOUS  KINDS  OF  CANS  AND  BOXES PREPARING 

CANS  FOR  THE  WORK CUTTING  IN  AND  OPEN- 
ING OUT  CANS  AND  BOXES 

THERE  are  many  shapes  and  sizes  of  tin  cans 
and  boxes  as  every  one  knows ;  round,  square,  ellip- 
tical, tall,  short,  or  flat  A  surprising  number  of 
attractive  shapes  and  sizes  may  be  collected  in  a 
short  time  in  any  community.  Housewives  are  only 
too  glad  to  find  some  one  to  use  them. 

Cans  that  are  well  rinsed  with  hot  water  as  soon 
as  the  contents  are  removed  are  not  at  all  objection- 
able to  work  with;  but  cans  that  have  not  been 
rinsed  out,  or  that  have  been  thrown  out  and  exposed 
to  the  weather  are  very  unpleasant  objects,  and  be- 
sides, a  rusty  can  is  very  difficult  to  solder.  It  is  a 
simple  matter  to  rinse  or  scald  out  a  can  as  soon  as 
the  contents  are  removed. 

Tomato,  corn,  pea  and  condensed  milk  cans  are 
the  most  plentiful.  Coffee,  tea,  cocoa,  jam,  mackerel 
and  sardine  cans,  olive  and  cooking  oil  cans,  baking 
powder  and  spice  cans  are  all  useful  for  making  the 

19 


20  MAKING  TIN  CAN  TOYS 

things  described  in  this  book  and  for  many  more 
besides.  Biscuit  boxes,  tobacco  boxes,  cold  cream, 
ointment,  and  the  small  adhesive  tape  boxes  all  con- 
tain possibilities.  The  screw  tops  of  olive  oil  and 
cooking  oil  cans,  and  bottle  caps  should  be  collected 
for  this  work.  Jelly  glass  lids,  in  fact,  all  shallow 
tin  lids  are  useful.  Syrup  and  molasses  cans  with 
separate  lids,  that  push  into  place  are  worth  saving, 
especially  the  lids.  Certain  containers  of  dry  ma- 
terial are  now  largely  made  of  pasteboard  with  tin 
tops,  lids  and  bottoms.  The  tin  parts  of  these  con- 
tainers are  often  of  an  attractive  shape.  The  large 
round  gallon  cans  used  by  hotels  and  restaurants  are 
particularly  useful,  and  a  sizable  piece  of  tin  may 
be  obtained  from  the  sides  of  the  can  and  the  bottoms 
may  be  used  for  large  candlestick  saucers  and  many 
other  things.  Large  square  tin  boxes  used  to  con- 
tain 100  pounds  of  cocoa  may  be  obtained  from  some 
restaurants.  These  are  made  of  heavy  tin  and  five 
large  sheets  may  be  cut  from  the  bottom  and  sides. 
Considerably  over  $i  would  have  to  be  paid  for  the 
same  amount  of  tin. 

Preparing  Cans  for  the  Work. — Cans  that  have 
contained  paint,  stove-blacking,  heavy  oils  or 
greases,  or  cans  that  have  been  standing  about  with 
part  of  the  contents  exposed  to  the  air  may  be  thor- 
oughly cleaned  of  all  foreign  matter  by  the  hot  lye 
bath.  This  bath  is  made  up  by  adding  two  heaping 
tablespoon fuls  of  lye  or  washing  soda  to  the  gallon 


TIN  CANS  21 

of  boiling  water.  Cans  boiled  up  in  this  solution 
for  a  few  minutes  will  be  cleaned  of  all  paint,  paper 
labels,  etc.  Keep  the  hands  out  of  the  solution  and 
do  not  allow  any  of  it  to  come  in  contact  with  the 
clothes.  Lift  the  work  out  of  it  with  a  wire  hook 
and  rinse  off  the  lye  with  hot  water ;  stand  the  cans 
bottom  up  so  that  they  will  drain  out  without  any 
water  remaining  in  them.  The  lye  solution  may  be 
used  for  a  number  of  times  and  then  may  be  poured 
down  the  sink,  as  lye  is  an  excellent  thing  for  drain 
pipes.  Do  not  leave  a  lye  bath  in  the  shop  without 
covering  it  tightly  when  not  in  use,  as  the  fumes 
from  it  are  sure  to  rust  every  tool  in  the  place. 

Coffee,  tea,  cocoa,  talcum  and  other  cans  that 
have  contained  dry  material  need  not  be  put  in  the 
lye  bath  until  ready  to  paint,  unless  the  labels  are 
too  much  in  the  way  for  soldering.  Small  boxes 
such  as  contain  tobacco  are  almost  covered  with  a 
sort  of  varnished  paint.  This  may  be  scraped  away 
where  the  box  is  to  be  soldered,  but  if  much  solder- 
ing is  to  be  done  the  whole  box  should  be  boiled  up  in 
the  lye  bath  until  all  the  paint  is  removed.  Some- 
times the  lye  softens  the  paint  but  does  not  entirely 
remove  it.  More  lye  may  be  added  to  the  bath  and 
the  work  left  in  it  awhile  longer,  or  the  work  may 
be  removed  from  the  bath  and  the  softened  paint 
scrubbed  away  with  a  scrubbing  brush  and  plenty 
of  clean  water.  After  being  used  several  times,  the 
bath  will  become  too  muddy  and  weak  for  further 


22  MAKING  TIN  CAN  TOYS 

use  and  then  a  fresh  one  should  be  made,  as  the  lye 
is  inexpensive. 

For  good  work,  it  is  necessary  that  the  cans  be 
thoroughly  clean. 

Cutting  Into  and  Opening  Out  Cans  and  Boxes.— 
There  is  one  very  easy  way  to  cut  into  and  open 
out  a  can  or  box.  To  make  wheels,  small  trays  and 
other  things,  a  good  part  of  the  sides  of  the  can  must 
be  cut  away  leaving  a  small  portion  of  the  sides 
attached  to  the  bottom.  The  part  that  is  cut  away 
may  be  flattened  out  and  used  to  make  various 
things.  As  most  of  the  cans  used  are  cut  down  to 
various  dimensions  in  this  manner,  either  to  use  the 
bottom  with  part  of  the  sides,  or  to  obtain  flat  sheets 
of  tin,  it  will  be  well  to  consider  the  easiest  way 
of  doing  it. 

First,  determine  how  much  of  the  bottom  portion 
of  the  can  is  to  be  left  intact.  Then  using  a  pair  of 
dividers  opened  to  this  dimension,  make  a  line 
parallel  with  the  base  of  the  can  and  completely 
around  it.  [To  do  this,  hold  the  can  down  to  the 
bench  with  the  left  hand  so  that  it  may  be  turned 
against  the  divider  points  as  shown  in  Plate  IV,  a. 
Hold  the  dividers  firmly  down  to  the  bench  and 
against  the  can  so  that  the  uppermost  point  is  held 
at  exactly  the  same  height  from  the  bench  during 
the  turning  or  marking,  while  turning  the  can  against 
the  point  to  mark  it. 

Then  using  a  pair  of  straight  metal  shears,  cut 


PLATE  II 


Army  truck  shown  in  frontispiece  assembled  from  group  of  cans 
shown  below- 


Tin  cans  used  to  make  the  army  truck  shown  in  frontispiece 


TIN  CANS  23 

down  each  side  of  the  seam  or  joint  in  the  side  of  the 
can  to  within  one-half  inch  of  the  horizontal  line 
you  have  marked  with  the  dividers  (see  Plate  IV,  &). 

Bend  out  the  narrow  strip  containing  the  seam 
and  cut  it  off  with  the  shears.  This  will  give  you 
an  open  slot  in  the  side  of  the  can  in  which 
the  shears  may  be  easily  introduced  to  cut  horizon- 
tally around  it. 

Do  not  try  to  cut  directly  on  the  line  marked 
around  the  can  with  the  dividers  but  begin  cutting 
about  half  an  inch  above  this  line  and  cut  com- 
pletely around  the  can  until  you  have  cut  off  the 
whole  top  part  of  it.  After  you  have  cut  away  the 
larger  portion  of  the  metal,  the  narrow  strip  remain- 
ing above  the  line  may  be  easily  cut  away  as  it 
curls  up  out  of  the  way  as  it  is  cut  by  the  shears. 

The  can  should  be  held  in  the  left  hand  with  the 
open  end  or  top  toward  you  (see  Plate  IV,  c).  Be 
sure  you  hold  the  can  in  this  manner.  With  the  tin 
snips  held  in  the  right  hand,  start  cutting  toward 
the  left  hand  always  when  cutting  around  a  can  or 
box.  Bend  the  tin  out  of  the  way  as  you  cut.  You 
will  find  that  it  is  impossible  to  cut  in  a  straight  line 
or  to  make  a  continuous  unbroken  cut  while  cutting 
away  a  large  portion  of  the  can.  But,  after  the 
larger  piece  is  out  of  the  way,  the  narrow  strip 
remaining  above  the  line  may  be  easily  cut  away  if 
you  cut  toward  your  left  hand  and  hold  the  open 


24  MAKING  TIN  CAN  TOYS 

end  of  the  can  toward  you.  It  is  impossible  to  cut  a 
straight  line  around  a  cylindrical  form  with  a  pair 
of  straight  shears  unless  the  shears  cut  from,  right 
to  left  and  that  part  of  the  metal  which  is  cut  away 
is  nearest  the  operator. 

The  beginner  will  perhaps  find  it  easier  to  handle 
the  cans  if  a  pair  of  old  thin  kid  gloves  are  worn. 

If  one  can  afford  it,  the  pair  of  double  cutting 
shears  such  as  are  listed  in  the  supplementary  tools 
on  page  31  are  excellent  things  to  have  for  opening 
and  cutting  around  cans.  These  shears  have  three 
blades,  and  one  blade  cutting  between  two  fixed 
blades  cuts  away  a  narrow  strip  of  tin  as  the  shears 
are  worked  along  in  such  a  manner  that  a  straight 
line  may  be  followed  around  a  can  at  the  first  cut- 
ting. The  point  of  the  single  blade  may  be  punched 
into  the  side  of  a  can  and  the  cut  started  around 
the  can  at  any  point.  If  many  cans  are  to  be  cut 
down,  these  double  cutting  shears  will  save  much 
time  and  trouble.  However,  the  straight  shears  will 
answer  well  enough,  if  the  above  directions  are  care- 
fully followed. 

Be  sure  to  try  not  to  cut  to  the  line  the  first  time 
you  cut  around  a  can.  Cut  away  the  larger  part  first 
and  then  cut  to  the  line  when  there  is  only  a  narrow 
strip  to  cut  away.  Do  not  mind  if  the  first  piece  cut 
away  looks  very  rough  and  jagged.  It  may  be  a 
little  difficult  at  first,  but  patience  and  practice  will 


TIN  CANS  25 

soon  make  it  quite  easy  to  cut  open  a  can  in  this 
manner,  using  a  pair  of  ordinary  straight  shears. 

Cut  away  the  top  of  the  can  or  the  rolled  edge 
adhering  to  that  part  of  the  can  which  is  cut  away ; 
trim  away  all  jagged  edges;  place  flat  on  the  bench 
or  anvil  and  flatten  out  the  tin  with  light  blows  of  a 
wooden  mallet.  Lay  this  tin  aside  until  needed. 

I  find  it  convenient  to  cut  away  the  top  or  rolled 
edge  of  large  round  cans  before  cutting  around 
them  near  the  bottom,  as  then  it  is  easy  to  bend  the 
comparatively  large  sheet  of  tin  out  of  the  way  of 
the  shears  as  I  cut  around  the  can  at  the  bottom.  A 
large  pair  of  shears  is  very  convenient  for  opening 
large  cans,  but  small  ones  will  do  if  intelligently  used. 

When  cutting  metal  with  a  pair  of  shears,  always 
remember  that  the  shears  cut  more  powerfully  near 
the  joint  or  bolt,  particularly  when  cutting  through 
a  folded  seam  or  soldered  joint.  Keep  the  shears 
well  oiled  and  have  them  sharpened  by  a  competent 
mechanic  when  they  become  dull. 

When  cutting  narrow  strips  of  tin,  be  careful 
not  to  get  the  tin  jammed  between  the  shear  blades 
so  that  the  blades  are  forced  apart  sideways. 
Keep  the  bolt  tightened  so  that  the  blades  fit 
closely  together. 

One  might  suppose  that  cut  or  burned  fingers 
would  be  plentiful  in  a  large  class  of  tin  toy  makers, 
but  such  has  not  proved  to  be  the  case.  There  have 


26  MAKING  TIN  CAN  TOYS 

been  surprisingly  few  accidents  of  this  sort  and 
none  of  them  at  all  serious. 

One  soon  learns  how  to  handle  tin  so  as  to  avoid 
rough  or  sharp  edges  and  that  a  soldering  copper  is 
provided  with  an  ample  handle  so  that  it  may  be 
safely  and  easily  handled  when  hot. 

Some  of  the  students  found  that  old  kid  gloves 
with  parts  of  the  fingers  cut  off  afforded  protection 
to  hands  that  were  not  used  to  shop  work. 

A  bottle  of  iodine  was  kept  handy  and  such 
slight  cuts  that  were  encountered  were  immediately 
washed  with  cold  water  and  iodine  applied  to  the 
cut  which  was  then  lightly  bandaged.  This  treat- 
ment proved  most  effective  and  no  ill  effects  resulted. 

A  mixture  of  pure  linseed  oil  and  lime  water 
may  be  obtained  at  any  druggists  and  this  is  a  very 
effective  remedy  for  burns.  The  solution  should  be 
well  shaken  up  and  applied  directly  to  the  burn 
which  should  then  be  bandaged  with  bandages  wet 
with  the  mixture. 

Common  brown  laundry  soap  worked  up  into  a 
thick  lather  is  an  excellent  remedy  for  slight  burns. 

Care  and  patience  used  in  handling  the  tin  and 
the  tools  will  leave  very  little  use  for  the  above 
remedies  in  the  shop. 

The  various  problems  presented  in  this  book  of 
tin  can  toys  should  be  worked  out  in  the  order  in 
which  they  are  presented  as  each  one  bears  a  definite 


TIN  CANS  27 

relation  to  the  others.  Be  sure  to  work  out  the 
simpler  problems  first — even  if  you  have  had  con- 
siderable experience  in  other  forms  of  metal  work- 
ing. A  number  of  processes  particularly  adapted  to 
working  tin  are  used  in  making  tin  can  toys. 

While  these  processes  are  very  simple,  they  are 
somewhat  unlike  those  involved  in  copper  working 
and  jewelry  making,  though  more  closely  allied  to 
the  commercial  metal  work  of  to-day. 


CHAPTER  II 

TOOLS  AND  APPLIANCES 

TOOL  LISTS  AND  COSTS LAYING  OUT  AND  MARKING 

OFF  THE  WORK SHOP  APPLIANCES 


IN  this  chapter  the  names  and  approximate  costs 
of  the  tools  and  appliances  are  given  and  also  sug- 
gestions as  to  fitting  up  the  shop  for  working  with 
the  cans.  Various  methods  are  suggested  for  laying 
out  the  work  with  the  ruler,  square  and  dividers. 

It  must  be  remembered  that  tool  prices  are  not 
fixed  and  that  the  prices  quoted  in  the  following 
lists  are  the  market  prices  of  to-day,  July  29,  1918. 
At  present,  tools  are  much  higher  in  price  than  usual 
owing  to  conditions  brought  about  by  the  war.  Tool 
prices  vary  with  market  conditions. 

The  tools  listed  may  be  bought  at  any  good  hard- 
ware store  or  ordered  from  the  catalogues  of  any  of 
the  large  mail  order  houses  (except  the  Wooden 
Roofing  Folder  and  the  Forming  Mallet).  While 
the  folder  is  not  absolutely  necessary  for  folding  up 
angles  in  the  tin,  it  is  much  better  to  have  one  to 
make  the  numerous  angles  employed  in  tin  work 
than  to  attempt  folding  by  hand,  and  particularly 
when  long  angles  are  to  be  made  for  lanterns,  towers, 
28 


TOOLS  AND  APPLIANCES  29 

automobile  chassis  and  the  like.  In  fact,  it  is  in 
almost  constant  use. 

The  wooden  roofing  folder  is  not  carried  in 
stock  by  hardware  and  mail  order  houses,  but  it  may 
be  ordered  from  a  dealer  in  tin-smiths'  or  sheet 
metal  workers'  tools.  Any  good  tinner  or  plumber 
will  tell  you  where  to  order  one. 

The  forming  mallet  is  easily  made  from  a  block 
of  maple  or  a  piece  of  broom  handle  as  described 
under  Shop  Appliances. 

It  is  taken  for  granted  that  such  simple  tools  as 
rulers  and  pencils  are  at  hand. 

LIST  OF  TOOLS  FOR  MAKING  THE  SIMPLER  TIN  CAN  TOYS  AND 
DECORATIVE  OBJECTS 

I  soldering  copper,  weight  i  Ib.   (i  Ib.  actual  weight  of 

copper  end)  $  .75 

wooden  handle  for  copper 10 

pair  tinners'  shears,  8  or  10  inch 85 

pair  flat-nose  pliers,  4  inch 45 

pair  round-nose  pliers,  4  inch 45 

pair  dividers,  6  inch 1.25 

small  riveting  or  tack  hammer 40 

half  round  file,  smooth  milled  cut,  8  to  10  inch .20 

wooden  mallet,  3  inch  face .25 

box  of  soldering  paste   .25 

bar  of  soft  solder 1.25 

Ibs.  soft  solder  wire 1.20 

wooden  forming  mallet  (home  made) 

wooden  roofing  folder  (optional)  4.50 

(Roofing  folder  may  be  obtained  only  from  dealer 
in  tinners'  tools.) 

vise  (3  inch  jaws)  $3.50  to  5.00 

try  square,  6  inch 65 


30  MAKING  TIN  CAN  TOYS 

Materials  Needed  Aside  from  the  Cans. — Gal- 
vanized wire,  10  or  15  feet  each  of  the  following 
diameters:  Vie.  >6>  Vie.  Y*  (if  impossible  to  obtain 
all  these  diameters,  get  y&  inch  or  larger).  Wire 
nails,  about  y2  lb.  each  of  the  following  sizes:  2d, 
3d,  4d,  6d,  8d,  lod,  2od  (d  is  the  abbreviation  for 
penny).  Tinned  rivets,  several  dozen  of  the  small- 
est size  (a  box  containing  one  gross  is  about  as  cheap 
as  six  dozen).  Can  of  lye  or  2  pounds  of  washing 
soda.  For  heating  the  soldering  copper,  a  heater  of 
some  kind,  such  as  a  blue  flame  kerosene  stove,  gas 
furnace  or  common  one-burner  gas  stove,  charcoal 
furnace,  or  gasoline  plumbers'  torch  with  attach- 
ments for  holding  copper.  A  large  can  or  pail,  or 
an  old  wash  boiler  for  holding  the  hot  lye  solution. 

Supplementary  Tool  List.— The  tools  named  in 
this  list  will  be  found  very  convenient  for  making 
the  more  advanced  models,  particularly  the  hand 
drill  and  the  twist  drills  which  are  used  with  the 
hand  drill.  The  supplementary  tools  are  by  no 
means  necessary  for  making  the  tin  can  toys,  but  if 
one  can  afford  to  get  them,  they  will  be  found  ex- 
tremely convenient.  However,  almost  any  of  the 
models  may  be  made  with  the  tools  listed  on  page  29, 
if  one  is  sufficiently  skillful  in  the  use  of  them.  The 
more  work  one  does  with  tools  the  fewer  tools  one 
needs  if  the  tools  are  intelligently  used. 

The  tools  in  both  lists  should  be  purchased,  'if 
possible,  as  they  are  all  tools  commonly  used  in  metal 
working  shops.  Purchase  the  tools  listed  on  page  29 


TOOLS  AND  APPLIANCES  31 

first  and  go  as  far  as  possible  with  them,  and  then 
purchase  as  many  of  the  supplementary  tools  as 
possible  when  you  need  them. 

Except  when  noted  otherwise,  these  tools  may 
be  purchased  at  any  good  hardware  store. 

SUPPLEMENTARY   TOOL   LIST 

i  hand  drill,  capacity  1/32  to  3/16  inch  drills $1.75 

4  twist  drills,  1/16,  1/8,  3/16,  1/4  inch  diameters  .  .$.10  to    .20 

pair  large  tinners'  shears,  12  or  16  inch 1.50 

pair  curved  tinners'  shears,  8  inch 1.25 

pair  double  cutting  shears,  8  inch  (optional) 1.85 

pair  side  cutting  pliers,  5  inch 75 

pair  spring  dividers,  6  inch 75 

pair  outside  calipers,  6  inch 75 

(Spring  dividers  and  outside  calipers  may  sometimes 
be  obtained  at  the  5-and-io  Cent  Stores.) 

small  soldering  copper,  weight  about  4  ounces 35 

half-round  file,  8  inches  (fine  cut) 25 

round  file,  8  inches  long,  J4  mcn  diameter 20 

small  cold  chisel,  J4  inch  in  width  at  cutting  edge 15 

large  cold  chisel,  34  mcn  at  cutting  edge 25 

(An  old  wood  cutting  chisel  is  just  as  good  for 
cutting  tin.) 
3  nail  sets,  1/16,  1/8,  3/16  inch  in  diameter  at  point,  each. .     .10 

(These  nail  sets  may  also  be  used  as  punches  or 
ground  to  chisel  points.  Small  chisels  and  nail  sets 
may  be  obtained  at  the  5-and-io  Cent  Stores.) 

I  carpenters'  scratch  awl  25 

(An  ice  pick  of  the  same  type!  will  do  as  well.) 

6  small  clamps  of  different  sizes 10  to    .25 

(These  clamps  may  usually  be  found  at  the  5-and-io 
Cent  Stores.) 

i  hatchet  stake,  9-inch  blade 1.75 

(Obtained  only  from  tinners  and  sheet  metal 
workers'  supply  houses.  A  small  substitute  may  be 


32  MAKING  TIN  CAN  TOYS 

made  from  a  10-cent  hatchet.     Purchase  the  hatchet 
stake  if  you  can  afford  it.) 

i  bench  drill $7.50 

(The  bench  drill  is  by  no  means  necessary  for  any 
of  the  models  described  in  this  book,  but  it  is  a  very 
convenient  tool  to  have  in  the  shop.  With  this  tool,  a 
hole  may  always  be  bored  at  right  angles  to  the  work. 
The  hand  drill  will  answer  every  purpose  if  one  can- 
not afford  this  tool.) 

Laying  Out  and  Marking  Off  the  Work. — Before 
attempting  to  begin  actual  work  with  the  cans,  it 
may  be  well  to  consider  various  ways  of  measuring 
to  certain  dimensions  and  transferring  these  meas- 
urements to  the  surface  of  the  tin,  and  laying  out 
and  marking  off  the  work  for  cutting,  folding,  etc. 

The  tools  needed  for  this  work  are  few  and 
simple.  A  ruler,  a  marking  awl,  a  small  try  square, 
and  a  pair  of  spring  dividers  are  all  one  needs  for 
this  part  of  the  work.  The  ruler  may  be  of  wood 
or  metal  and  should  be  at  least  12  inches  in  length 
with  the  inch  divisions  marked  on  it.  A  plain 
straight  rule  of  hard  wood  such  as  is  used  in  the 
grade  schools  will  do  very  well. 

The  marking  awl  may  be  purchased  at  any  good 
tool  house  or  hardware  store  or  an  ice  pick  will  do 
very  well  if  sharpened  to  a  good  point  so  that  a  line 
may  be  easily  scratched  in  the  surface  of  the  tin  with 
the  point.  A  large  stiff  needle  may  be  forced  in  a 
pen  handle  to  make  an  excellent  marking  awl  or  a 
common  steel  knitting  needle  may  be  used  if  the 


TOOLS  AND  APPLIANCES  33 

point  is  sufficiently  sharp.  Metal  workers  always 
scratch  their  dimension  lines  in/  the  surface  of  the 
metal  as  pencil  lines  are  easily  rubbed  away  by  the 
hands  when  working  with  the  metal. 

The  try  square  should  be  about  six  inches  long 
at  the  blade  or  measuring  side,  and  should  be  entirely 
constructed  of  metal  and  the  measuring  blade  should 
be  marked  off  in  inches  and  fractions  thereof.  Good 
try  squares  may  frequently  be  purchased  in  the  5 
and  10  cent  stores  and  these  are  quite  accurate 
enough  for  the  purpose.  The  spring  dividers  should 
be  about  6  inches  in  length.  These  dividers  are  held 
open  by  the  strong  spring  in  the  top  and  are  opened 
and  closed  by  a  nut  acting  on  the  screw  thread.  Do 
not  purchase  the  heavy  dividers  or  compass  com- 
monly used  by  carpenters  as  these  are  not  as  capable 
of  the  small  adjustments  as  are  the  spring  dividers. 
The  spring  dividers  may  sometimes  be  found  at  the 
5  and  10  cent  stores  and  may  always  be  found  at 
good  hardware  stores  and  tool  houses. 

All  the  tools  used  for  laying  out  and  marking  off 
the  work  are  plainly  shown  (Plate  VI). 

Laying  Out  Work.— It  should  be  borne  in  mind 
that  a  little  time  spent  in  carefully  measuring,  laying 
out  and  marking  off  the  work  will  make  a  great  dif- 
ference in  the  finished  appearance  of  that  work,  so 
that  these  simple  operations  should  not  be  slighted. 

The  steel  square  should  always  be  used  in  laying 
out  rectangular  work :  lines  that  are  supposed  to  be 
3 


34  MAKING  TIN  CAN  TOYS 

at  right  angles  or  "  square."  Work  that  is  not  care- 
fully laid  out  or  square  will  not  fit  together  neatly 
if  it  fits  at  all. 

One  of  the  first  things  that  one  has  to  do  in  the 
tin  can  work  is  to  trim  up  a  piece  of  tin  that  is  taken 
from  the  side  of  a  can  and  flattened  out. 

Suppose  that  such  a  piece  of  tin  has  been  cut 
from  a  can  and  flattened  out,  the  edges  of  such  a 
piece  of  tin  are  rather  jagged  and  the  whole  piece 
should  be  trimmed  off  square  before  trying  to  use 
the  tin  for  various  purposes. 

First  place  the  ruler  as  near  to  the  upper  edge  of 
the  tin  as  possible  and  so  as  not  to  include  any  of 
the  jagged  cuts.  Hold  the  ruler  down  firmly  and 
draw  the  point  of  the  marking  awl  along  the  edge 
of  the  ruler  until  a  straight  line  is  scratched  along 
the  edge  of  the  tin.  The  surplus  tin  above  this  line 
should  be  cut  away  with  the  metal  shears  by  cutting 
along  from  right  to  left  so  that  the  narrow  and 
jagged  strip  of  tin  is  curled  up  out  of  the  way  by 
the  shears  as  it  is  cut.  When  the  surplus  tin  is  cut 
away  you  should  have  a  straight  clean  edge  at  which 
to  begin  the  marking  operations. 

Using  the  Try  Square. — Next,  the  two  ends  of 
the  piece  of  tin  should  be  squared  off  using  the  try 
square  for  squaring  up  the  ends  as  follows :  Place 
the  heavy  solid  part  of  the  square  firmly  against  the 
freshly  cut  straight  edge  of  the  tin,  near  one  end  in 
such  a  manner  that  the  blade  of  the  square  with  the 


TOOLS  AND  APPLIANCES 


35 


inch  divisions  marked  on  it  lays  squarely  across  the 
tin,  and  as  near  as  possible  to  the  end  of  the  piece 
but  not  including  any  of  the  jagged  cuts.  The  posi- 
tion of  the  square  is  shown  in  Fig.  i. 

When  the  square  is  in  position,  mark  a  line  across 
the  tin  with  the  scratch  awl  held  closely  to  the  blade. 
Cut  away  the  extra  tin  and  you  have  two  sides  of 
your  piece  of  tin  squared.  Proceed  in  the  same 
manner  to  trim  off  the  other  end.  The  remaining 


FIG.  i. 


FIG.  2. 


or  long  side  of  the  piece  may  be  squared  up  either  by 
using  the  ruler  or  the  spring  dividers.  The  strip  of 
tin  that  you  have  squared  up  on  three  sides  will 
probably  be  narrower  at  one  end  than  at  the  other. 
Measure  the  width  of  the  narrow  end  with  the  ruler 
and  then  measure  off  this  same  distance  at  the  oppo- 
site end  and  mark  it  with  the  scratch  awl.  Use  the 
ruler  to  connect  the  two  measuring  points  and 
scratch  a  line  in  the  tin  by  drawing  the  scratch  awl 
along  the  edge  of  the  ruler.  Cut  away  the  surplus 
tin  and  your  piece  of  tin  should  be  squared. 


3  6  MAKING  TIN  CAN  TOYS 

The  spring  dividers  may  be  opened  so  that  the 
points  rest  exactly  on  each  corner  of  the  narrowest 
end  of  the  strips  of  tin.  Then  the  dividers  are 
moved  to  the  opposite  end  of  the  strip  and  the 
lower  end  or  point  of  the  dividers  moved  back  and 
forth  slightly  until  a  slight  scratch  is  made  in  the 
surface  of  the  tin  to  indicate  the  measuring  point. 
The  position  of  the  dividers  is  shown  in  Fig.  2.  The 
ruler  is  used  to  connect  the  two  measuring  points 
and  a  line  scratched  between  them. 

Small  strips  of  tin  may  be  marked  off  entirely  by 
the  dividers  by  setting  the  dividers  to  the  required 
dimension,  placing  the  dividers  so  that  one  point 
rests  against  one  edge  of  the  strip  to  be  marked  off 
and  then  drawing  the  dividers  along  in  such  a  man- 
ner that  the  point  of  the  dividers  that  rests  on  the 
tin  will  scratch  a  line  parallel  to  the  edge.  The  edge 
of  the  tin  that  the  point  of  the  dividers  rests  against 
must,  of  course,  be  cut  straight  before  beginning  the 
marking  operations.  The  strip  thus  marked  off  may 
be  cut  away  and  another  one  marked  off  in  the  same 
manner  until  the  required  number  of  strips  is  cut. 

Suppose  that  four  strips  are  to  be  cut,  each  strip 
to  measure  one  by  ten  inches.  Square  up  a  piece  of 
tin  to  measure  four  by  ten  inches.  Open  the  dividers 
so  that  the  points  are  exactly  one  inch  apart.  Rest 
one  point  of  the  dividers  against  one  edge  of  the 
tin  as  shown  in  Fig.  2  and  draw  it  along  the  entire 
length  of  the  tin  so  as  to  scratch  a  line  parallel  to 


TOOLS  AND  APPLIANCES  37 

the  edge.  Cut  off  this  strip,  taking  care  to  make  a 
straight  cut  and  then  mark  off  another  strip  and  cut 
it  off,  and  so  on  until  all  four  strips  are  cut.  This 
method  of  using  the  dividers  for  marking  is  more 
accurate  and  much  easier  than  that  of  using  a  ruler 
to  measure  off  each  strip,  and  certainly  more  rapid. 

Finding  Wheel  Centers  with  the  Dividers. — 
When  making  wheels  of  tin  cans,  some  easy  method 
must  be  used  to  find  the  center  of  the  wheel  in  order 
to  punch  or  bore  a  hole  for  the  axle  so  that  the  axle 
may  be  placed  as  near  the  center  of  the  wheel  as 
possible,  and  so  that  the  wheel  will  run  true  once  it 
is  placed  on  the  axle. 

The  dividers  may  be  used  for  this  operation 
which  is  very  simple.  The  can  is  first  made  up  into 
wheel  form  as  described  in  Chapter  X,  page  108. 
When  the  wheel  is  soldered  together  lay  it  flat  on 
the  bench.  Open  the  dividers  so  that  one  point 
rests  against  the  rim  of  the  wheel  or  against  the 
rolled  edge  of  the  can  forming  the  rim  of  the  wheel. 
If  the  wheel  is  made  of  a  can  that  has  a  cap  soldered 
on  each  end  and  this  cap  forms  the  end  of  the  can 
(such  as  the  small  cans  that  are  used  for  evaporated 
milk) ,  then  the  one  leg  of  the  dividers  may  be  rested 
in  the  slight  line  or  depression  just  inside  the  rim 
that  is  invariably  found  in  this  can.  Open  the 
dividers  so  that  the  other  point  rests  as  near  the 
center  as  you  can  guess  it.  When  the  dividers  are 
set  to  dimension  and  are  in  position  on  the  wheel 


MAKING  TIN  CAN  TOYS 


as  shown  in  Fig.  3,  then  move  the  point  of  the 
dividers  that  is  near  the  center  of  the  wheel  slightly 
back  and  forth  so  that  it  describes  a  slight  arc  and 
scratches  it  in  the  surface  of  the  can  and  the  other 
point  of  the  divider  is  held 
at  the  point  near  the  rim  of 
the  wheel  during  this  opera- 
tion. Then  move  the  dividers 
directly  across  the  wheel  still 
set  at  the  same  dimension, 
placing  one  point  against  the 
rim  or  in  the  depressed  line 
and  describing  a  slight  arc 
in  the  tin  as  before.  Set  the 
dividers  at  right  angles  to 
the  first  two  marking  points 
having  the  dividers  still 
opened  to  the  same  di- 
mension as  at  first  and 
describe  another  arc.  Set 
the  dividers  directly  across 
FlG-  3-  from  this  point  and  describe 

another  arc.  The  wheel  should  then  resemble  Fig.  4, 
the  four  arcs  forming  sort  of  a  pillow  shape  as 
shown.  Draw  lines  diametrically  across  connecting 
each  corner  of  the  pillow  as  shown  and  where  these 
lines  cross  is  the  center  of  the  wheel. 

If  one  is  so  fortunate  as  to  possess  a  tool  called 
a  surface  gauge,  it  will  be  found  very  handy  for 


TOOLS  AND  APPLIANCES  39 

marking  or  scribing  lines  parallel  to  the  base  of  cans. 
This  tool  consists  of  a  base  of  metal  in  which  is 
fixed  an  upright  post  also  of  metal.  An  adjustable 
scriber  or  needle  is  fixed  to  this  post  so  that  it  may 
be  lowered  or  raised  and  set  in  position  as  desired. 
The  point  is  adjusted  to  the  required  height  and 
placed  against  the  side  of 
the  can  or  surface  to  be 
marked,  the  operation  be- 
ing conducted  on  a  flat  level 
surface.  The  can  is  simply 
turned  against  the  fixed 
scriber  point  until  it  is 
entirely  marked  around. 
The  advantage  of  the  sur- 
face gauge  over  the  di- 
viders for  this  operation  is 

that  the  scriber  point  is  held  rigidly  at  a  fixed  dimen- 
sion above  the  base  of  the  can  while  the  dividers 
must  be  held  firmly  in  place  by  the  hand.  However, 
the  dividers  will  do  very  well  for  this  operation  after 
a  little  practice. 

SHOP  APPLIANCES 

Homemade  Substitutes  for  Expensive  Tools. — 

The  tool  of  first  importance  in  any  metal  working 
shop  is  a  good  vise.  There  is  no  substitute  for  this 
tool  and  a  good  one  that  measures  three  or  three  and 
a  half  inches  across  the  jaws  should  be  purchased 


40  MAKING  TIN  CAN  TOYS 

from  a  reliable  tool  dealer.  The  next  tool  of  im- 
portance is  some  form  of  anvil  or  anvils  for  flatten- 
ing or  rounding  the  tin.  A  small  bench  anvil  may 
be  purchased  from  the  tool  dealer.  These  are  much 
like  a  blacksmith's  anvil  with  a  flat  face  and  a  coni- 
cal horn  and  are  made  of  iron  and  steel.  The  large 
mail  order  houses  offer  various  small  anvils  of  cast 
iron  for  farm  use  and  these  are  excellent  for  the 
tin  shop. 

Excellent  substitutes  for  these  anvils  are  easily 
made  from  old  flat  irons  and  pieces  of  gas  or  water 
pipe.  Short  lengths  of  iron  and  steel  bars  may  be 
picked  up  about  any  junk  pile,  and  these  are  very 
useful  to  form  the  tin  over. 

The  Flat  Iron  Anvil. — An  old  flat  iron,  the  kind 
with  the  handle  attached,  may  be  found  about  almost 
any  household.  The  handle  should  be  broken  off  as 
close  to  the  top  of  the  iron  as  possible.  Use  a  ham- 
mer and  cold  chisel  for  this  and  cut  the  handle  ends 
deeply  all  around  where  they  join  the  iron.  When 
they  are  deeply  nicked,  several  sharp  blows  from  a 
large  hammer  should  break  the  handle  away. 

File  away  all  roughness  until  the  iron  will  set 
level  with  the  smooth  or  ironing  face  uppermost. 
Then  you  have  an  excellent  flat  hard  surface  for 
straightening  out  tin  or  wire. 

Pipe  and  Bar  Anvils. — Short  lengths  of  iron 
pipe,  round  and  square  iron  and  steel  bars  of  various 
diameters  may  be  held  in  the  vise  jaws  and  used  to 


TOOLS  AND  APPLIANCES  41 

form  the  work  over.  Large  wire  nails  may  also  be 
used  for  this  purpose. 

The  smaller  sizes,  such  as  1A,  H>  or  V*  mcn  m 
diameter,  should  be  solid  iron  or  steel  bars  8  or  10 
inches  in  length,  as  small  pipe  crushes  and  bends 
rather  easily  in  the  vise.  Larger  sizes,  such  as  fy, 
J/2,  I  or  2  inches  in  diameter,  are  better  made  of  pipe 
as  they  are  lighter  and  easier  to  handle  and  also 
easier  to  obtain. 

Get  all  the  sizes  suggested  if  possible  and  as 
many  short  pieces  of  square  or  flat  bars  as  you  find 
convenient  to  store  away  about  the  shop.  They 
will  come  in  very  usefully  for  bending  or  forming 
operations.  The  method  of  holding  them  in  the  vise 
is  plainly  shown  on  page  89,  Fig.  26. 

If  you  have  plenty  of  bench  room  and  are  handy 
with  tools,  several  of  the  most  used  sizes  of  pipe 
and  bars  may  be  clamped  or  bolted  directly  to  the 
bench  with  wooden  or  metal  holding  strips.  The 
larger  sizes,  such  as  ft,  I,  il/2,  2  and  3  inches  in 
diameter,  will  be  found  very  convenient  if  fastened 
to  the  bench  in  this  manner. 

The  Bench. — The  shop  bench  should  be  about 
31  inches  in  height.  The  top  of  the  bench  should  be 
about  2l/2  by  6  feet  or  larger  if  possible,  and  may 
easily  be  built  by  any  one  familiar  with  tools.  The 
top  should  be  made  of  maple  about  il/2  inches  thick. 
If  one  cannot  afford  this  bench  a  common  kitchen 
table  makes  an  excellent  substitute.  A  good  strong 


42  MAKING  TIN  CAN  TOYS 

table  of  this  sort  may  be  purchased  at  any  house- 
furnishing  store.  These  tables  are  furnished  with  a 
large  drawer  in  which  small  tools  may  be  kept. 

If  much  of  the  tin  work  is  done,  it  will  prove 
advantageous  to  have  some  light  wooden  shelves  or 
racks  built  about  the  walls  of  the  shop  to  store  the 


FIG.  5. 

various  sized  cans  where  they  may  be  easily  seen 
and  reached. 

The  Forming  Mallet. — The  special  forming 
mallet  designed  by  the  author  will  have  to  be  made. 
It  was  designed  especially  for  work  with  the  tin 
cans.  It  is  very  simple  and  easily  made  of  maple  by 
any  carpenter.  One  end  is  a  slightly  rounded  dome 
shape  and  the  other  is  in  the  form  of  a  blunt  wedge. 
The  dimensions  and  general  shape  of  the  mallet  are 


TOOLS  AND  APPLIANCES  43 

shown  in  Fig.  5.  The  handle  may  be  made  of  a 
piece  of  j^-inch  dowel  rod.  A  substitute  for  this 
mallet  may  be  made  of  a  piece  of  broom  handle  the 
end  of  which  is  already  rounded  to  about  the  proper 
curve.  Measure  off  4^  inches  from  the  rounded 
end  of  the  broom  handle  and  saw  it  off.  Bore  a 
y-2. -inch  hole  through  the  center  of  the  piece  to  fit 
the  piece  of  dowel  rod  used  for  the  handle.  Whittle 
down  the  end  to  a  blunt  wedge  shape  leaving  it 
about  y%  inch  thick  at  the  end.  The  rounded  end 
may  be  left  as  it  is. 

A  piece  of  y2-mch  maple  dowel  may  be  picked 
up  in  any  carpenter  shop.  This  should  be  8^  inches 
long.  It  should  be  driven  into  the  hole  drilled  for 
it  in  the  mallet,  taking  care  not  to  split  the  mallet 
in  so  doing.  If  the  broom  handle  is  rather  small  in 
diameter  it  would  probably  be  better  to  use  a  piece 
of  7/16-  or  ^-inch  dowel  for  the  handle.  A  small 
nail  or  brad  may  be  driven  through  the  mallet  and 
handle  to  secure  it  in  place. 


CHAPTER  III 

MAKING  A  BISCUIT  CUTTER  FROM  A  SMALL  CAN 

CUTTING  THE  CAN  TO  SIZE  FOR  BISCUIT  CUTTER — 
PUNCHING   A    HOLE   IN   TIN FORMING   THE 

HANDLE FOLDING MAKING    A     SUGAR    SCOOP 

BY  THE  SAME  METHOD 

A  BISCUIT  CUTTER  is  about  the  simplest  thing 
that  may  be  made  from  a  tin  can.  It  is  an  excellent 
thing  to  begin  with  as  it  is  so  simple  and  involves 
three  very  essential  operations  in  the  tin  can  work : 
cutting  the  can  to  size,  forming  the  handle,  and 
lastly,  soldering  (see  Plate  VII,  a). 

Select  a  good  bright,  clean  can  about  2^  inches 
in  diameter;  a  baking  powder  can  or  a  small  soup 
can  will  do. 

Tin  cans  are  usually  made  up  in  two  ways.  One 
method  is  to  solder  on  flanged  ends,  such  as  con- 
densed or  evaporated  milk  cans,  and  the  other  method 
is  to  roll  the  edges  of  the  can  together  at  each  end, 
using  no  solder.  When  looked  at  closely,  the  two 
different  types  of  can  ar£  easily  told  apart.  .A  rolled 
rim  can  should  be  used  for  the  biscuit  cutter  as  it  is 
stronger  than  the  can  with  the  soldered  ends. 

Cutting  the  Can  to  Size  for  Biscuit  Cutter.— The 
biscuit  cutter  should  be  about  ^  mcn  deep  at  the 
44 


PLATE  VII 


Biscuit  cutters  made  by  the  author 


Soldering 


MAKING  A  BISCUIT  CUTTER 


45 


cutting  edge.  Set  the  dividers  to  this  dimension  and 
proceed  to  scribe  a  line  around  the  can  parallel  to  the 
base  and  %  inch  above  the  rolled  rim  of  the  bottom. 
This  simple  scribing  operation  is  described  in 
Chapter  I,  page  22. 

The  method  of  cutting  into  the  can  and  around 
the  scribed  line  is  very  simple  and  is  also  described 
in  Chapter  I. 

When  you  have  cut  the  can  down  to  the  required 
dimension,  it  should 
appear  as  shown  in 
Fig.  6.  The  biscuit 
cutter  may  be  slightly 
out  of  shape  after  the 
cutting  operation,  but 
this  may  be  easily  rem- 
edied by  placing  the 
biscuit  cutter  on  a 
small  round  anvil 
held  in  the  vise  and  by  tapping  it  gently  with  a  flat 
wooden  mallet,  turning  the  cutter  slowly  around  on 
the  anvil  during  the  hammering  as  shown  in  Fig.  7. 
Be  sure  to  turn  the  biscuit  cutter  slowly  around  and 
around  the  anvil  as  it  is  hammered  with  the  mallet. 
It  will  soon  become  round  if  hammered  gently. 

Next  take  a  small  flat  file,  one  with  very  fine 
teeth,  usually  called  a  smooth  milled  file,  and  with 
this  smooth  down  any  roughness  left  by  the  metal 
shears  at  the  edge  of  the  biscuit  cutter.  The  method 


FIG.  6. 


46  MAKING  TIN  CAN  TOYS 

of  using  the  file  is  shown  in  Fig.  8.  It  should  be 
held  lightly  against  the  work  when  filing.  (Never 
try  to  file  a  piece  of  tin  with  a  large  or  roughly 
toothed  file  as  the  coarse  teeth  will  catch  on  the  tin 
and  tear  or  bend  it  out  of  shape.) 

Do  not  try  to  file  the  edge  of  the  cutter  to  a 
knife  fine  edge;  simply  file  away  the  metal  raised  by 


^ 

ROUND 
AhVlb 

2 

\l\bb 

\ 

3 

FIG.  7. 


FIG. 


the  shears  when  cutting.  If  it  is  cleanly  cut  and 
filed  to  the  original  thickness  of  the  tin,  it  will  cut 
biscuit  dough  very  well,  as  the  tin  is  thin. 

Punching  a  Hole  in  Tin. — A  hole  should  be 
punched  in  the  top  of  the  biscuit  cutter  to  admit  air, 
as  the  biscuit  dough  is  apt  to  stick  in  the  cutter  by 
the  vacuum  formed  unless  an  air  vent  is  provided. 
A  small  hole  about  ]/§  inch  in  diameter  will  do,  but 
a  series  of  such  holes  may  be  punched  in  if  desired. 


MAKING  A  BISCUIT  CUTTER  47 

A  punch  may  be  filed  up  from  a  wire  nail  or  a 
regular  punch  or  nail  set  may  be  used. 

The  biscuit  cutter  is  placed  over  the  end  of  a 
block  of  wood  held  in  a  vise  as  shown  in  Fig.  9,  in 
such  a  manner  that  the  top  of  the  cutter  rests 
directly  on  the  wood.  The  punch  is  placed  in  the 
center  of  the  cutter,  care  being  taken  to  see  that 
the  wooden  block  supports  the  tin  directly  under  the 
punch,  and  then  the  punch  is  struck  lightly  with  the 
hammer  until  it  cuts  through  the  tin. 

It  may  be  well  to  try  the  punch  on  a  scrap  of  tin 
to  test  it.  A  clean  round  hole  should  result.  The 
punch  cuts  out  a  tiny  disk  of  tin  and  drives  it  into 
the  wood.  The  end  grain  of  a  wooden  block  should 
always  be  used  for  punching  on. 

If  a  nail  is  used  for  a  punch,  the  original  point 
should  be  filed  away.  Nail  points  are  usually  made 
in  the  form  of  a  square  pyramid  and  if  these  points 
are  driven  into  a  piece  of  tin  a  jagged  hole  will 
result ;  such  a  hole  may  be  used  for  making  a  grater 
for  the  kitchen,  but  all  other  holes  should  be  round 
and  smooth. 

To  file  up  a  nail  for  a  punch  proceed  as  follows : 
Place  the  nail  vertically  in  the  vise  jaws  so  that  the 
point  projects  slightly  above  the  jaws.  File  the 
point  entirely  away  until  you  are  filing  the  entire 
diameter  of  the  nail  and  squarely  across  it. 

Then  reduce  the  diameter  of  the  nail  at  the  end 
you  have  been  filing  by  filing  smoothly  around  it  as 


MAKING  TIN  CAN  TOYS 


shown  at  A,  Fig.  10.  See  that  the  edge  B  is  clean 
and  sharp  and  the  nail  punch  is  ready  for  use.  The 
nail  used  for  a  punch  should  always  be  somewhat 
larger  in  diameter  than  the  punching  point,  as  this 
will  provide  for  a  stronger  punch  and  one  not  so 


Flit 
I  |< MAIU 


PUttCH 


r/ooo 


r\       71 

FIG.  9. 


tn 


FIG.  10. 


likely  to  bend.  Regular  punches  are  usually  made 
much  thicker  in  the  body  than  at  the  point,  as  may 
be  easily  seen  by  looking  at  one.  If  desired,  punches 
may  easily  be  made  from  nails  to  cut  round,  square, 
or  triangular  holes. 

It  is  much  better  to  purchase  a  regular  punch  or 


MAKING  A  BISCUIT  CUTTER  49 

punches  for  punching  round  holes,  as  these  may  be 
purchased  for  10  or  15  cents  at  almost  any  hardware 
or  5-and-io  cent  store.  Several  different  sizes  will 
prove  useful,  Vis,  y&,  Vie  inches  in  diameter  being 
the  most  used  sizes.  As  these  punches  are  made  of 
hardened  steel  they  hold  their  edges  for  a  long  time, 
but  nails  are  made  of  a  fairly  soft  steel  and  when 
used  as  punches  have  to  be  frequently  filed  sharp. 

Forming  the  Handle.— After  the  hole  is  punched 
in  the  top  of  the  biscuit  cutter,  a  suitable  handle  is 
the  next  thing  to  be  made.  This  handle  may  be  made 
from  the  piece  of  tin  cut  away  when  cutting  down 
the  can  for  the  biscuit  cutter.  Cut  away  any  rough 
or  jagged  edges  and  then  place  this  piece  of  tin  on 
the  bench  or  a  flat  anvil  surface  and  flatten  it  out  with 
light  mallet  strokes.  Heavy  strokes  with  a  mallet 
will  dent  the  tin. 

Trim  away  all  rough  edges  including  the  rolled 
edge. at  the  top  and  square  up  the  piece  of  tin  as 
described  on  page  34,  Chapter  II.  Mark  off  a  strip 
of  tin  ij4  inches  in  width  and  4  inches  long.  Cut 
this  strip  out  and  be  sure  that  it  is  square  at  the 
ends.  Open  the  dividers  and  set  the  divider  points 
l/4  inch  apart  and  scribe  a  line  J4  mch  inside  each 
of  the  long  sides  of  the  strip.  The  edges  of  the  strip 
of  tin  thus  marked  off  must  be  turned  or  folded  in 
so  that  the  edges  of  the  handle  will  be  strengthened 
and  will  not  cut  the  hand.  .  These  edges  may  be 
folded  over  with  a  mallet  or  by  the  use  of  a  folding 
4 


So  MAKING  TIN  CAN  TOYS 

machine.  The  mallet  should  be  used  for  this  first 
folding  operation;  the  folding  machine  and  its 
use  will  be  described  further  along  in  the  book, 
page  1 20,  Chapter  XL 

To  fold  the  edges  over  with  the  mallet,  proceed 
as  follows:  Secure  a  block  of  hard  wood,  maple 
preferred,  the  block  to  be  about  3  inches  square  and 
6  inches  in  length.  See  to  it  that  the  block  is  cut 


ITflLUT 


FIG.  na.  FIG.  nb. 

cleanly  and  squarely  across  so  that  the  edges  at  the 
end  are  sharp  and  at  right  angles.  A  maple  block  of 
this  sort  may  usually  be  picked  up  at  any  lumber 
yard  or  carpenter  shop,  or  a  maple  log  may  be 
secured  from  the  wood  pile  and  trimmed  up  square. 
One  end  of  the  block  may  be  used  to  punch  on. 

The  block  is  held  in  the  vise  as  illustrated  in 
Fig.  1 1  and  the  tin  to  be  folded  is  held  on  the  block 
in  such  a  manner  that  the  line  marking  the  fold  is 
over  the  edge  of  the  block.  Use  either  a  light 
wooden  mallet  or  the  special  forming  mallet,  and 


MAKING  A  BISCUIT  CUTTER  51 

with  light  blows  proceed  to  bend  down  at  the  edge 
and  up  to  the  line  as  illustrated  in  Fig.  1 1 ,  a.  Begin 
at  one  end  and  work  along  the  line  to  the  other  end 
of  the  strip  of  tin.  Do  not  try  to  turn  the  tin  down 
at  a  right  angle  at  once  or  in  one  place  and  then 
proceed  to  turn  it  down  at  another,  but  rather 
hammer  lightly  along  the  whole  length  at  the  mark- 
ing line,  turning  the  tin  down  at  a  slight  angle  from 
the  line  to  the  edge  and  then  going  back  and  start- 


FIG.  12.  FIG.  13.  FIG.  14. 

ing  to  hammer  where  you  began,  turning  the  tin 
down  at  a  greater  angle  and  so  on  until  you  have 
turned  the  edge  at  right  angles  as  shown  in  Fig.  1 1,  b. 
Always  bend  tin  over  very  gently  and  evenly,  never 
forcing  it  violently  into  place. 

Reverse  the  strip  of  tin  on  the  block  so  that  the 
part  just  folded  stands  vertically  at  the  edge  of  the 
block  as  shown  in  Fig.  12.  Hammer  the  edge  of  the 
tin  gently  over  so  that  it  folds  back  on  itself  as 
shown  by  the  dotted  line  in  Fig.  12. 

Do  not  hammer  the  tin  down  hard  at  the  folded 


52  MAKING  TIN  CAN  TOYS 

edge  so  that  it  becomes  thin  and  sharp  though 
doubled.  It  should  be  rounded  over  so  as  to  give 
a  rounded  edge.  A  rounded  fold  is  much  stronger 
than  a  sharp  thin  one.  When  one  edge  is  com- 
pletely folded  over,  fold  down  the  other  in  the  same 
manner,  so  that  both  edges  of  the  handle  for  the 
biscuit  cutter  appear  as  in  Fig.  13. 


FIG.  15. 

When  you  have  successfully  turned  or  folded 
over  the  edges  to  your  satisfaction,  then  proceed  to 
give  the  whole  handle  a  semicircular  form. 

Place  a  large  round  wooden  mallet  or  a  piece  of 
1 1/2  or  2-inch  pipe  in  the  vise  to  use  as  a  form  over 
which  to  round  the  handle.  The  folded  part  should 
be  inside  or  next  the  mallet  or  pipe  form  shown  in 
Fig,  14.  Press  the  tin  down  to  the  form  with  the 


MAKING  A  BISCUIT  CUTTER  53 

palm  of  the  hand  so  as  to  round  it  into  shape;  it  may 
be  completely  formed  into  shape  by  this  method  or 
the  rounded  end  of  the  special  forming  mallet  may 
be  used  to  hammer  it  into  shape  if  the  tin  should 
kink  during  the  bending.  The  mallet  blows  should 
be  directed  toward  the  center  of  the  strip  so  as  not 
to  thin  the  edges  too  much. 

Round  the  handle  over  until  the  ends  rest  inside 
the  rolled  rim  of  the  can  or  biscuit  cutter  and  you 
are  ready  to  solder  the  handle  in  place. 

As  the  soldering  is  the  most  important  part  of 
the  tin  work  the  next  two  chapters  are  devoted  to  it. 

The  Sugar  Scoop. — A  useful  sugar  or  flour  scoop 
may  be  easily  made  from  a  small  or  large  can  in 
exactly  the  same  manner  as  the  biscuit  cutter,  except 
that  the  can  is  cut  off  slanting  instead  of  square, 
Fig.  15.  The  edges  of  the  scoop  should  not  be 
turned  or  folded  but  should  be  left  as  cut  so  as  to 
form  a  sharp  cutting  edge  that  will  easily  enter 
sugar  or  flour.  The  handle  is  shaped  in  exactly  the 
same  manner  as  that  of  the  biscuit  cutter. 


CHAPTER  IV 

SOLDERING 

SOFT  SOLDER SHEET  TIN THE  PROCESS  OF  SOL- 
DERING  HEATING      APPARATUS ELECTRICAL 

SOLDERING  COPPERS THE  COMMON  SOLDERING 

COPPER FLUXES TINNING     THE     COPPER 

HEATING 

Soft  Solder. — When  two  or  more  pieces  of  metal 
are  joined  together  with  a  metallic  cement,  they  are 
said  to  be  soldered. 

Sheet  tin,  of  which  cans  are  constructed,  is 
always  soldered  with  soft  solder,  a  mixture  of  lead 
and  tin,  usually  50  per  cent,  lead  and  50  per  cent.  tin. 

This  solder  is  usually  supplied  in  wire  or  bar 
form  at  any  hardware  or  electrical  supply  house. 

Copper,  brass,  bronze,  iron,  silver,  gold,  and 
practically  any  metal  except  aluminum  may  be 
soldered  with  soft  solder. 

Sheet  Tin. — Sheet  tin,  so-called,  really  consists 
of  a  thin  sheet  of  iron  coated  on  both  sides  with  tin. 
This  coating  of  tin  serves  several  purposes.  It  en- 
ables the  solder  to  adhere  easily ;  it  prevents  the  iron 
from  rusting;  and  when  the  sheet  tin  is  made  up 
into  can  form,  the  tin  coating  protects  the  contents 
of  the  can  from  chemical  action  on  the  iron. 
54 


SOLDERING  55 

The  Process  of  Soldering.— Soft  solder  is  applied 
to  the  metal  to  be  soldered  in  a  molten  state  and  this 
operation  requires  considerable  heat.  When  heat  is 
applied  to  metal  it  usually  oxidizes  that  metal ;  that 
is,  dirties  it. 

Solder  will  not  adhere  to  oxidized  metal.  The 
metal  must  be  protected  with  a  coating  called  a  flux 
while  being  soldered.  Soldering  paste,  soldering 
fluid  or  "  killed  acid,"  resin,  parafBn,  heavy  oils, 
and  vaseline  all  serve  as  fluxes,  some  better  than 
others.  The  soldering  paste  is  by  far  the  best,  as 
will  be  shown  later. 

Soft  solder  is  applied  to  the  tin,  on  the  point  of  a 
hot  soldering  copper,  often  wrongly  called  a  "  solder- 
ing iron."  A  soldering  copper  consists  of  a  pointed 
bar  of  copper  suitably  fixed  to  an  iron  shank  which 
is  firmly  set  in  a  wooden  handle.  The  point  of  the 
copper  must  be  well  coated  with  solder  or  "  tinned," 
so  that  when  it  is  heated  it  will  pick  up  the  solder 
and  convey  it  to  the  joint  to  be  soldered. 

The  hot  copper,  charged  with  solder,  is  passed 
slowly  along  the  joint  and  as  the  tin  to  be  soldered 
receives  enough  heat  from  the  copper,  the  solder 
leaves  the  copper  and  adheres  to  the  tin,  firmly 
uniting  it. 

Heating  Apparatus. — Some  form  of  heating 
apparatus  is  necessary  to  heat  and  maintain  the 
soldering  copper  at  the  melting  or  flowing  point  of 
the  solder.  The  copper  may  be  heated  in  a  gas  fur- 


56  MAKING  TIN  CAN  TOYS 

nace  especially  made  for  soldering  coppefs,  or  over 
an  ordinary  gas  stove  burner  or  a  common  blue 
flame  oil  stove,  or  a  charcoal  fire,  a  wood  fire  burned 
down  to  embers,  or  a  plumbers'  gasoline  torch,  but 
never  in  a  coal  fire.  Coal  contains  too  much  sulphur 
which  oxidizes  the  copper  and  renders  it  useless  for 
soldering  purposes. 

The  Blue  Flame  Oil  Stove. — For  heating  the 
coppers  in  my  country  shop,  I  use  a  blue  flame  oil 
stove,  one  of  the  less  expensive  sort,  with  the 
asbestos  ring  wick  and  the  short  removable  chim- 
neys. The  stove  has  two  burners  and  will  heat  from 
four  to  six  coppers  at  once.  The  flames  may  be 
regulated  nicely  so  as  to  give  just  the  required 
amount  of  heat  and  this  stove  consumes  very  little 
kerosene,  and,  therefore,  costs  little  to  operate.  In 
Fig.  1 6,  it  will  be  noticed  that  there  is  a  curved  hood 
over  each  stove  hole.  These  hoods  may  be  easily 
made  from  part  of  a  large  can  or  of  a  piece  of  tin 
or  sheet  iron  bent  into  shape.  These  hoods  conserve 
the  heat  and  throw  it  about  the  coppers.  I  also  place 
a  piece  of  heavy  wire  netting  over  the  grating  of  the 
stove  holes  to  support  the  coppers  and  to  permit 
their  being  laid  to  one  side,  out  of  the  intense  heat, 
when  not  immediately  needed. 

The  blue  flame  oil  stove  forms  the  most  satis- 
factory arrangement  for  heating  coppers  that  I  have 
ever  used  in  the  country.  These  stoves  are  easily 
taken  care  of  and  are  understood  by  almost  every- 


SOLDERING 


57 


GAS  c°nntCTiori 


FIG.  16. 

one.  The  directions  should  be  nailed  up  alongside 
the  stove  and  carefully  followed,  particularly  as  to 
cleaning  the  burners  once  or  twice  each  season, 


58  MAKING  TIN  CAN  TOYS 

The  Gasoline  Torch.— The  plumbers'  gasoline 
torch  is  often  used  by  experienced  metal  workers 
for  heating  coppers.  In  inexperienced  hands,  this 
torch  is  rather  a  dangerous  affair.  Only  one  copper 
may  be  heated  at  a  time  and  it  is  difficult  not  to  over- 
heat the  copper  in  the  fierce  roaring  flame.  The 
cost  of  the  torch  and  the  cost  of  operating  it  are 
both  greater  than  the  blue  flame  kerosene  stove. 
However,  in  experienced  hands,  it  is  safe  enough 
and  very  useful  about  the  shop.  In  using  such  a 
torch  the  directions  should  be  most  carefully  fol- 
lowed; all  joints,  filler  openings,  etc.,  must  be  air- 
tight when  operating  or  a  disastrous  fire  or  explosion 
may  result.  The  tiny  jet  opening  in  the  burner 
must  be  kept  clean. 

The  Gas  Furnace. — In  my  winter  shop  in  the 
city  where  gas  is  available,  I  use  the  gas  furnace 
shown  in  Fig.  16.  This  is  a  most  satisfactory  and 
widely  used  heater  for  soldering  coppers,  as  it  gives 
an  intense  blue  flame  that  may  be  easily  regulated. 

When  using  a  heater  of  this  sort,  one  must  be 
sure  that  it  is  lighted  correctly  or  a  smoky  yellow 
flame  will  result.  To  produce  a  blue  flame,  air  must 
be  mixed  with  the  gas;  just  as  it  is  in  a  bunsen 
burner  or  an  ordinary  gas  stove,  for  that  matter. 
Gas  is  admitted  to  the  furnace  through  a  small  nozzle 
at  the  end  of  the  mixing  flue  near  the  rubber  hose 
connection.  Air  is  admitted  in  the  slot  under  the 
gas  nozzle;  a  movable  slide  encircles  the  mixing 


SOLDERING  59 

flue  over  the  slot  to  control  the  amount  of  air  ad- 
mitted. This  slide  must  be  tightly  closed  over  the 
air  vent  when  the  gas  is  first  turned  on. 

To  light  the  heater,  close  the  air  inlet  tightly, 
turn  the  gas  on  full  and  apply  a  lighted  match  to 
the  burner.  A  yellow  flame  will  result.  Now  open 
the  air  vent  slowly,  by  pushing  the  slide  fonvard  a 
little  way.  The  flame  will  change  from  yellow  to 
blue  and  purple  as  air  is  admitted.  When  the  flame 
is  blue,  it  is  giving  out  the  most  heat  and  is  in  the 
best  condition  to  heat  the  copper. 

If  the  flame  fires  back  and  lights  the  gas  at  the 
brass  nozzle  over  the  air  inlet,  the  gas  should  be 
turned  off  until  the  flame  disappears.  The  air  inlet 
is  then  closed,  and  the  gas  turned  on  and  lighted,  and 
then  the  air  inlet  is  slowly  opened  until  the  flame 
turns  blue.  When  the  furnace  is  in  use,  it  should  be 
looked  at  occasionally  to  see  that  the  flame  has  not 
fired  back  to  the  nozzle.  Once  satisfactorily  lighted, 
the  heater  may  be  turned  up  or  down  as  needed.  If 
the  flame  is  turned  down  very  low  the  air  inlet  may 
have  to  be  closed  a  bit  to  prevent  the  flame  from 
firing  back.  The  copper  is  placed  on  the  rest  pro- 
vided for  it  over  the  flame.  After  the  copper  is 
heated  to  the  flowing  point  of  solder,  the  flame  may 
be  turned  down  or  the  copper  placed  to  one  side  of 
the  flame,  so  that  it  does  not  get  too  hot. 

Charcoal  and  Wood  Fires. — When  using  a  char- 
coal or  a  wood  fire,  the  copper  should  be  placed  at 


60  MAKING  TIN  CAN  TOYS 

the  bottom  among  the  embers.  Small  charcoal  fur- 
naces used  for  heating  soldering  coppers  may  be 
bought  from  the  dealer  in  plumbers'  supplies.  Char- 
coal should  not  be  burned  in  a  closed  room  as  the 
fumes  are  deadly  unless  allowed  plenty  of  con- 
stantly changing  air.  These  furnaces  may  be  con- 
nected with  a  chimney  or  burned  in  a  room  with 
windows  opened,  without  danger. 

A  soldering  copper  may  be  heated  in  the  glowing 
embers  of  a  camp  fire  or  in  the  embers  in  a  fireplace. 

Electrical  Soldering  Coppers.— The  electrically 
heated  copper  is  ideal  for  soldering  as  the  heating 
coil  is  enclosed  within  the  copper  itself,  the  wire  run- 
ning out  through  the  handle  and  connecting  with  an 
ordinary  electric  light  socket.  The  heat  is  main- 
tained at  a  proper  degree  for  melting  the  solder; 
hence  it  is  an  ideal  equipment  for  those  who  can 
afford  it  and  where  electric  current  is  available.  The 
doctors  of  certain  hospitals  have  recommended 
electrical  coppers  for  the  use  of  patients  in  making 
tin  can  toys. 

An  electric  soldering  copper  costs  about  $7.50 
at  the  present  time. 

The  Common  Soldering  Copper. — A  suitable 
soldering  copper  or  "  iron  "  may  be  purchased  at  any 
good  tool  dealer's  or  hardware  store;  it  should 
weigh  about  one  pound  for  work  with  the  tin  cans. 

Almost  everyone  has  purchased  a  small  solder- 
ing outfit  at  one  time  or  another  and  tried  to  solder 


SOLDERING  61 

the  family  wash-boiler  or  some  leaky  tinware;  usu- 
ally without  success.  Such  outfits  are  invariably  too 
small  for  large  work  or  for  the  tin  can  toys. 

It  must  be  well  remembered  that  the  heat  flows 
from  the  copper  into  the  work,  and  that  the  copper 
has  to  heat  up  the  work  to  the  melting  point  of  the 
solder;  hence  a  large  copper  weighing  several 
pounds  is  used  to  solder  wash-boilers,  tin  roofs,  etc., 
and  a  small  copper  weighing  a  few  ounces  is  used 
for  soldering  jewelry,  etc. 

A  large  copper  in  expert  hands  may  be  used  to 
solder  very  small  work  but  a  small  copper  may  never 
be  used  to  solder  large  work  together,  because  the 
copper  not  only  has  to  keep  the  solder  melted  to  the 
flowing  point,  but  also  has  to  heat  the  work  itself  at 
the  joint  to  the  flowing  point  of  the  solder  before  the 
solder  will  leave  the  copper  and  adhere  to  the  work. 

In  actual  practice,  it  has  been  found  that  a  cop- 
per weighing  one  pound  is  best.  After  one  gets 
more  adept  with  the  copper,  it  will  be  found  advan- 
tageous to  have  several  coppers  of  different  weights. 
A  half  pound  and  also  a  four  ounce  copper  will  be 
found  very  convenient  for  extremely  small  work. 
But,  do  not  begin  to  solder  with  a  copper  weighing 
less  than  one  pound. 

Soldering  coppers  are  usually  sold  in  pairs  at 
the  large  tool  dealers,  and  coppers  listed  at  two 
pounds  really  weigh  one  pound  each ;  when  sending 


62  MAKING  TIN  CAN  TOYS 

in  a  written  order  be  sure  that  you  specify  that  the 
copper  is  to  weigh  one  pound  singly. 

A  wooden  handle  especially  made  for  soldering 
coppers  should  be  purchased  at  the  same  time  as  the 
copper ;  these  wooden  handles  are  made  large  to  pro- 
tect the  hand  from  the  heat  of  the  iron  shank.  The 
handle  is  usually  furnished  with  a  hole  of  the  proper 
size  drilled  in  it  to  permit  the  pointed  end  of  the 
shank  to  be  driven  in  the  handle  easily  with  a  wooden 
mallet.  If  the  hole  is  too  small,  it  should  be  drilled 
out  so  that  it  is  nearly  as  large  as  the  diameter  of 
the  shank.  The  wooden  handle  must  not  be  split 
when  driven  on  with  the  mallet. 

Fluxes. — Before  tinning  the  point  of  the  copper, 
some  flux  must  be  obtained,  either  a  soldering  paste 
or  soldering  fluid  "  killed  acid." 

An  excellent  soldering  paste  called  "  Nokorode  " 
is  by  far  the  best  flux  obtainable.  It  is  inexpensive, 
a  little  goes  a  long  way,  and  it  will  not  rust  or 
corrode  the  work  as  is  the  case  with  killed  acid  and 
some  soldering  pastes.  It  may  be  easily  cleaned  from 
the  work  after  soldering  and  it  makes  soldering 
much  easier  and  simpler  for  the  beginner.  Nokorode 
soldering  paste  may  be  obtained  at  any  good  elec- 
trical supply  house  or  hardware  store.  If  they  do 
not  stock  it,  they  will  get  it  for  you.  There  is  noth- 
ing else  just  as  good  on  the  market,  but  if  for  any 
reason  you  cannot  obtain  this  particular  brand,  be 


SOLDERING  63 

sure  that  any  soldering  paste  you  buy  is  plainly 
labelled  that  it  will  not  corrode  the  work. 

Soldering  fluid  or  killed  acid  is  made  of  muri- 
atic acid  in  which  is  dissolved  all  the  pure  zinc  that 
it  will  hold  in  solution.  This  fluid  is  much  used  by 
tinners  and  is  certainly  an  excellent  soldering  flux, 
but  not  nearly  as  good  as  the  soldering  paste  for 
our  purposes.  However,  it  is  very  useful  in  the 
shop  to  dip  the  tinned  point  of  the  hot  copper  into 
it  to  remove  the  oxide  or  dirt  formed  after  the 
copper  has  been  in  use  for  some  time.  The  solder 
will  stick  to  the  point  much  better  after  the  copper 
has  been  cleaned  in  this  manner. 

Directions  for  making  the  killed  acid  and  the  use 
of  other  soldering  fluxes  will  be  found  on  page  68. 

Tinning  the  Copper.— Having  procured  the 
soldering  copper  and  handle,  some  flux  and  soft 
solder,  and  having  fixed  up  some  sort  of  heating 
apparatus,  the  next  step  toward  soldering  is  to  coat 
the  point  of  the  copper  with  solder :  this  is  called 
tinning  the  copper. 

Fix  the  copper  firmly  in  a  vise  if  one  is  at  hand, 
as  illustrated  in  Fig.  17.  Then  file  each  of  the 
four  faces  of  the  point  of  the  copper  bright  and 
clean  with  a  flat  file.  It  is  better  to  use  an  old  file 
for  this  purpose — one  with  rather  coarse  teeth.  It 
will  be  observed  that  the  copper  is  placed  slantwise 
in  the  vise  so  as  to  bring  one  face  of  the  square 


64 


MAKING  TIN  CAN  TOYS 


pyramid  parallel  with  the  vise  jaws;  this  position 
permits  filing  in  a  natural  horizontal  position. 

Each  face  of  the  point  should  be  rounded  slightly 
toward  the  point. 


FIG.  17. 

If  a  vise  is  not  available,  the  copper  may  be  held 
against  the  edge  of  the  bench  with  one  hand  and  the 
point  filed  clean  and  bright  with  the  file  held  in  the 
other,  or  a  coarse  sheet  of  emery  cloth  may  be  placed 


SOLDERING  65 

flat  on  the  table  and  each  face  of  the  point  rubbed 
bright  on  it.  A  file  is  by  far  the  best  for  this  pur- 
pose, however,  and  if  it  is  chalked  before  using,  the 
copper  filed  away  will  not  clog  it. 

When  the  copper  is  clean  and  bright  at  the 
point,  each  face  should  be  thoroughly  covered  with 
a  thin  film  of  soldering  paste  or  dipped  into  the 
soldering  acid. 

The  copper  should  then  be  placed  in  the  fire  and 
heated  to  the  melting  point  of  the  solder. 

Heating. — While  the  copper  is  heating  get  ready 
a  piece  of  tin  about  2  by  4  inches — any  clean  flat 
scrap  or  part  of  a  can  will  do.  Spread  a  little  solder- 
ing paste  into  the  center  of  the  tin  and  lay  it  on  the 
bench  near  the  heating  apparatus.  A  few  drops  of 
killed  acid  may  be  placed  on  the  tin  instead  of  the 
paste,  if  the  acid  is  to  be  used. 

After  a  few  minutes  heating  the  copper  should 
be  removed  from  the  fire  and  the  end  of  a  strip  of 
solder  touched, to  the  point.  If  the  solder  melts 
quickly  and  easily  against  the  point  the  copper  is 
ready  to  tin;  if  it  melts  very  slowly,  "  slushy  "  the 
copper  should  be  returned  to  the  fire  and  heated  a 
bit  more.  The  copper  should  never  be  heated 
red  hot  under  any  circumstances;  this  must  be 
borne  in  mind.  If  the  copper  is  heated  to  a  red  heat, 
the  soldering  paste  will  be  burned  off  and  its  action 
destroyed,  for  a  red  hot  copper  will  not  pick  up 
5 


66  MAKING  TIN  CAN  TOYS 

solder,  nor  may  it  be  tinned  again  until  the  copper  is 
cool  and  refiled  bright  and  clean,  recoated  with  flux 
and  reheated.  If  the  copper  is  heated  red  hot  after 
the  point  is  tinned,  the  tinning  is  burned  from  the 
point  and  solder  will  not  stick  to  it  until  it  has  been 
cooled,  refiled  and  retinned. 

This  is  the  most  important  point  to  remember 
about  soldering  and  is  the  cause  of  many  failures. 
Remember  that  soldering  is  impossible  without  a 
flux  to  keep  the  metal  clean  when  it  is  hot;  too  much 
heat  will  burn  soldering  paste  or  killed  acid  away; 
the  tinning  and  the  solder  adhering  to  the  point 
will  be  burned  or  oxidized  and  rendered  brittle 
and  useless. 

A  heat  that  will  melt  the  solder  almost  instantly 
and  cause  it  to  flow  with  a  brilliant  glistening  color 
should  be  maintained  at  all  times  when  the  copper 
is  employed  for  soldering.  This  is  never  a  red  heat. 

When  the  copper  is  first  heated  to  be  tinned,  it 
should  be  removed  from  the  fire  when  it  melts  the 
solder  easily,  and  several  large  drops  of  solder 
should  then  be  melted  from  the  bar  or  strip  or 
solder  onto  the  piece  of  tin  placed  by  the  fire  and 
on  which  some  soldering  paste  or  acid  has  been 
spread.  Rub  each  face  of  the  point  of  the  copper 
into  the  solder  on  the  tin  until  each  face  is  thor- 
oughly covered  with  a  bright  coating  of  solder. 
Hold  each  face  flatly  down  against  the  solder  on  the 
tin  .during  the  rubbing  process.  The  copper  may 


SOLDERING  67 

have  to  be  heated  once  or  twice  by  the  beginner,  as 
it  may  get  too  cool  to  melt  the  solder  easily.  As 
soon  as  the  solder  begins  to  work  stiffly,  "  slushy," 
and  looks  gray  instead  of  glistening,  it  is  time  to 
reheat  the  copper. 

An  old  piece  of  soft  cotton  cloth,  such  as  a  stock- 
ing, on  which  is  sprinkled  a  little  powdered  sal- 
ammoniac  is  an  excellent  thing  to  keep  handy  when 
soldering  or  tinning.  The  tin  coating  of  the  point  of 
the  copper  should  be  rubbed  on  this  cloth  where  the 
sal-ammoniac  is  sprinkled,  when  the  copper  is  hot. 
This  will  be  found  to  keep  the  copper  in  excellent 
condition.  The  sal-ammoniac  removes  the  oxide 
from  the  tinning  and  brightens  it  up  generally  about 
the  point. 

The  tinning  will  last  much  longer  on  the  copper 
if  it  is  dipped  occasionally  into  the  soldering  paste  or 
acid  while  hot.  This  is  particularly  true  if  the  cop- 
per has  been  a  bit  overheated. 

When  the  tinning  shows  signs  of  wearing  off  and 
the  copper  does  not  pick  up  solder  readily,  it  must 
be  retinned,  filed,  fluxed,  heated,  and  rubbed  on  the 
solder  which  has  been  put  on  the  tin  first  used  for 
this  purpose.  This  piece  of  tin  should  be  kept  about 
the  bench,  as  the  copper  will  have  to  be  retinned  fre- 
quently. Always  remember  that  the  copper  will  not 
carry  solder  to  the  work  unless  it  is  well  tinned. 

If  an  electrical  soldering  copper  is  used  it  is  usu- 
ally furnished  already  tinned  at  the  point,  so  that  it 


68  MAKING  TIN  CAN  TOYS 

is  ready  for  use  as  soon  as  it  is  connected  to  a  suit- 
able electric  socket  and  the  current  turned  on.  The 
heating  coil  inside  the  copper  will  soon  heat  it  up  to 
the  melting  point  of  the  solder.  After  heating,  it 
may  be  treated  as  a  common  copper,  wiped  occa- 
sionally on  the  cotton  cloth  and  retinned  when  the 
tinning  is  worn  away.  An  electrical  copper  should 
never  be  placed  in  a  vise  for  filing,  but  should  be  held 
against  the  bench  and  filed  carefully.  A  vise  is 
apt  to  crush  the  hollow  copper  and  injuie  the  heat- 
ing coil  inside.  These  coppers  should  never  be 
placed  in  a  fire  or  heated  in  any  way  except  by  the 
electric  current. 

Electrical  coppers  do  not  need  as  much  atten- 
tion as  an  ordinary  copper  for  the  even  heat  sup- 
plied by  the  current  keeps  the  copper  heated  to  the 
flowing  point  of  the  solder  and  is  incapable  of  heat- 
ing beyond  this  temperature. 

How  TO  MAKE  SOLDERING  FLUID  OR  "  KILLED 
ACID  " 

Soldering  fluid  may  be  very  simply  made  as 
follows :  Pure  zinc  is  dissolved  in  muriatic  acid  until 
the  acid  will  not  dissolve  any  more  of  the  zinc.  The 
solution  thus  obtained  is  then  allowed  to  stand  for 
a  time  and  is  then  strained  through  a  cloth  and 
poured  into  a  bottle  which  is  kept  tightly  corked 
when  not  in  use. 
. .  First,  purchase  about  six  ounces  of  muriatic  acid 


SOLDERING  69 

from  a  druggist.  Take  care  not  to  spill  any  of  this 
acid  on  the  hands  or  clothes.  Next  get  some  pure 
sheet  zinc.  The  sheet  zinc  employed  for  stove  mats 
as  it  is  sold  in  the  plumbers'  shops  is  not  suitable  for 
making  soldering  fluid,  as  this  form  of  zinc  is 
alloyed  with  other  metals.  Pure  zinc  may  be  very 
easily  obtained  from  old  dry  batteries  which  may 
be  found  anywhere.. 

Remove  the  paper  covering  from  the  battery  and 
crack  it  open  with  a  hammer — remove  the  carbon 
from  the  center  of  the  battery  and  dump  out  all  the 
powdered  material.  Soak  the  zinc  covering  of  the 
battery  in  warm  water  to  remove  any  paper  or  ma- 
terial adhering  to  the  zinc  and  then  cut  the  zinc  into 
pieces  about  l/4  inch  square. 

Find  an  old  tea  cup  or  earthen-ware  marmalade 
jar  and  pour  into  it  about  half  a  teacupful  of  the 
muriatic  acid.  Set  the  vessel  containing  the  acid  out 
of  doors  or  near  an  open  window  and  away  from  all 
steel  tools,  so  that  the  fumes  of  the  acid  may  escape 
and  not  be  breathed  into  the  lungs  or  rust  any  tools. 

Pour  a  small  handful  of  the  zinc  cuttings  into 
the  acid.  The  acid  will  attack  them  at  once  and  a 
strong  bubbling  action  will  result.  When  the  bub- 
bling action  dies  down  add  more  zinc  cuttings — 
about  every  fifteen  minutes.  When  the  acid  shows 
no  sign  of  attacking  the  zinc  as  it  is  added,  the  acid 
is  said  to  be  "  killed  "  and  the  soldering  fluid  is 
made.  It  may  be  used  at  once  if  necessary,  but  it 


7o  MAKING  TIN  CAN  TOYS 

will  be  much  better  if  it  is  allowed  to  stand  over 
night  with  the  zinc  residue  left  in  it.  It  is  then 
strained  through  a  piece  of  muslin  cloth  into  another 
cup  or  jar  and  the  fluid  is  ready  for  use. 

Soldering  fluid  may  be  kept  in  a  wide-mouthed 
glass  bottle  or  a  marmalade  jar;  either  vessel  must 
be  tightly  corked  when  not  in  use.  This  soldering 
fluid  may  be  used  as  a  flux  for  any  soft  soldering 
operation  in  place  of  the  soldering  paste,  but  it  is  not 
as  satisfactory  a  flux  for  the  tin  can  work  as  the 
paste.  The  best  use  for  it  in  connection  with  the  tin 
can  toys  is  to  keep  it  to  dip  the  point  of  the  hot 
copper  in  occasionally  to  clean  the  tinning  at  the 
point  of  the  copper. 

While  the  prepared  soldering  paste  is  best  for 
all  soldering  operations  connected  with  the  tin  work, 
other  fluxes  may  be  used  if  nothing  better  is  at 
hand.  These  are  resin,  olive  oil,  cottonseed  oil, 
automobile  lubricating  oil,  and  paraffin;  but  these 
fluxes  are  not  very  satisfactory  in  inexperienced 
hands.  The  soldering  paste  is  best  for  all  soldering 
operations. 


CHAPTER  V 

SOLDERING  (Continued) 

PREPARING  A  JOINT  FOR  SOLDERING CLEANING  AND 

SCRAPING SOLDERING   A    PRACTICE   PIECE SOL- 
DERING THE  HANDLE  TO  THE  BISCUIT  CUTTER 

A    SECOND    PRACTICE    PIECE ANOTHER    METHOD 

OF  APPLYING  SOLDER 

Cleaning  and  Scraping. — If  the  copper  is  thor- 
oughly tinned  and  the  heater  and  materials  are  ready 
for  use  as  described  in  Chapter  IV,  then  several 
practice  pieces  should  be  soldered  together  before 
attempting  a  joining  on  any  real  work  you  may  have 
ready  to  solder. 

If  the  tin  is  bright  and  clean,  it  need  not  be 
scraped  at  the  joint  where  the  solder  is  to  go.  Rusty 
spots  should  be  scraped  bright  if  in  the  path  of  the 
solder.  Paper,  labels  or  paint  must  be  cleaned  away. 
If  a  can  has  been  well  rinsed  with  hot  water  when 
the  contents  are  emptied,  it  will  present  no  difficulties 
to  the  soldering,  but  a  can  that  has  been  emptied  but 
not  rinsed  presents  a  more  difficult  surface  to  solder; 
particularly  tomato,  fruit,  or  condensed  milk  cans. 
This,  of  course,  applies  only  to  the  inside  of  these 
cans.  Tobacco,  coffee,  cocoa,  tea  cans  and  the  like 
offer  no  resistance  to  the  solder  without  washing. 

71 


72  MAKING  TIN  CAN  TOYS 

The  yellow  lacquer  used  to  line  some  cans  need  not 
be  scraped  off.  Solder  will  adhere  well  to  tin  so 
treated,  but  paper,  paint,  etc.,  must  be  scraped  from 
the  path  of  the  solder.  The  scraped  part  need  only 
be  a  quarter  of  an  inch  in  width  on  each  side  of  the 
joint;  the  rest  of  the  paper  labels  or  paint  will  be 
removed  in  the  hot  lye  bath  used  before  painting 
the  can. 

The  scraping  may  be  done  with  an  old  knife,  or 
a  regular  scraper  furnished  by  the  dealer  in  tinners' 
tools  as  illustrated  on  page  202,  Chapter  XXI. 

When  scraping  the  tin  bright,  do  not  scrape  it 
so  hard  that  all  the  tin  will  be  scraped  away  from 
the  inner  sheet  of  iron,  as  solder  will  stick  to  tin 
much  better  than  to  iron.  If  the  tin  is  not  very  dirty, 
a  piece  of  emery  cloth  or  sand  paper  may  be  used 
to  clean  the  joint. 

Paint  cans,  cans  that  have  contained  stove  black- 
ing, rubber  cement,  varnish,  shellac,  etc.,  should  be 
thoroughly  boiled  in  a  strong  lye  bath  before  solder- 
ing; paint  is  usually  made  of  oxides  and  oxides  are  a 
sure  preventive  of  soldering.  The  lye  bath  is 
made  by  adding  two  heaping  tablespoon  fuls  of -lye 
or  washing  soda  to  the  gallon  of  boiling  water. 
Cans  boiled  in  this  solution  for  five  minutes  will  be 
thoroughly  cleaned  and  free  from  paint,  paper 
labels,  and  practically  anything  likely  to  be  found 
inside  or  outside  of  a  can.  The  lye  or  washing  soda 
may  be  obtained  at  any  grocery  store.  Care  should 


SOLDERING  73 

be  taken  not  to  get  any  .of  the  lye  solution  on  the 
hands  or  the  clothes  as  it  is  very  caustic  and  will 
burn  the  hands  and  ruin  the  clothes  if  not  immedi- 
ately washed  off.  The  work  should  be  handled  with 
a  wire  hook  while  in  the  bath  and  well  rinsed  with 
water  when  removed  from  it.  The  same  lye  bath  is 
used  before  paint  is  applied  to  tin  work,  when  all 
forming,  soldering,  riveting,  etc.,  is  done.  It  re- 
moves the  flux,  acid,  and  finger  marks,  leaving  a 
clean  surface  on  which  to  paint. 

Soldering  a  Practice  Piece. — For  practice  in 
soldering,  an  angle  joint  is  a  good  thing  to  begin 
with;  something  that  is  small  and  easily  held  in  posi- 
tion while  being  soldered.  As  I  have  already  de- 
scribed the  forming  up  of  a  biscuit  cutter  to  the 
point  of  soldering  it  together,  a  practice  piece  re- 
sembling it  will  be  an  excellent  thing  with  which 
to  begin. 

Cut  a  narrow  strip  of  tin  about  I  inch  wide  and 
4  inches  long  and  a  flat  piece  of  tin  about  2  by  3 
inches.  Be  sure  that  the  ends  of  the  narrow  strip 
are  cut  squarely  across,  using  the  square  if  neces- 
sary. (See  chapter  on  "  Laying  Out  Work,"  page 
32.)  See  to  it  that  both  pieces  are  well  flattened 
out  and  smooth. 

Bend  the  narrow  strip  into  a  semi-circular  form, 
like  the  biscuit  cutter  you  have  already  to  solder 
and  stand  this  piece  in  position  on  the  larger  flat 
piece  of  tin. 


74  MAKING  TIN  CAN  TOYS 

Now  lay  the  piece  near  the  soldering  copper 
heater,  on  the  wooden  bench ;  be  sure  to  place  it  on 
wood,  not  on  a  part  of  the  vise  or  any  other  metal 
that  may  be  convenient.  Iron,  stone  or  brick  will 
absorb  too  much  heat  from  the  tin  if  directly  under 
and  in  contact  with  it,  and  thus  prevent  soldering. 

Apply  a  small  amount  of  soldering  paste  to  each 


PIG.  18. 

joint  as  indicated  in  Fig.  18.  The  paste  may  be 
applied  with  a  small  flat  stick  of  wood  such  as"  a 
match  stick  shaved  down  to  a  long,  thin,  wedge  point, 

Killed  acid  or  soldering  fluid  is  usually  applied 
with  a  small  camel's-hair  brush  set  in  a  quill ;  some- 
times a  chicken  feather  is  used  for  this  purpose. 

The  flux,  whether  paste  or  acid,  should  be 
applied  sparingly,  but  be  sure  that  enough  is  applied 
to  thoroughly  cover  the  joint,  as  if  it  were  painted 
on  both  sides  of  the  metal  where  it  joins. 


SOLDERING  75 

See  to  it  that  the  copper  is  well  tinned  and 
heated  until  it  will  melt  and  take  up  a  good  sized 
drop  of  solder  at  the  point  when  held  against  a  bar 
or  strip  of  solder.  Wire  or  strip  solder  is  much 
easier  for  the  beginner  to  handle  than  the  heavier 
bar.  It  melts  far  more  easily,  as  it  is  smaller. 

If  bar  solder  is  used,  place  it  on  an  anvil  or  stone 
and  hammer  one  end  out,  until  it  is  about  %  inch 
thick  and  much  wider  than  the  original  bar.  It 
will  melt  off  much  more  quickly  when  thinned  out. 

Hold  the  semi-circular  piece  in  position  with 
the  left  hand  and  with  the  right  bring  the  hot  copper 
charged  with  molten  solder  at  the  tinned  point  and 
fit  the  point  of  the  copper  closely  into  the  angle 
formed  by  the  joint,  moving  the  copper  very  slowly 
along  the  joint,  starting  at  one  side  and  finishing  at 
the  other. 

When  each  side  of  the  joint  is  thoroughly  heated 
up  to  the  melting  point  of  the  solder,  some  of  the 
solder  will  leave  the  copper  and  flow  into  and  over 
the  joint;  so  that  when  starting  to  solder  a  joint  the 
copper  should  be  allowed  to  rest  a  moment  where  the 
soldering  is  to  be  started.  The  tin  is  then  heated  up 
and  when  the  solder  starts  to  flow  into  the  joint,  the 
copper  is  drawn  slowly  along,  heating  up  the  tin, 
and  as  it  travels  flowing  the  solder  into  the  joint. 

The  following  points  should  be  well  remembered 
when  soldering : 

That  the  tin,  to  be  soldered,  must  be  heated  up  to 


76 


MAKING  TIN  CAN  TOYS 


the  melting  point  of  the  solder  before  the  solder  will 

leave  the  copper  and  adhere  to  the  tin. 

That  the  copper  supplies  the 
heat  to  the  tin  and  that  the  tin  will 
not  be  heated  unless  the  copper  is 
kept  in  contact  with  it  long  enough 
to  heat  it.  Enough  of  the  copper 
should  be  in  contact  with  the  tin  to 
be  soldered  for  the  heat  to  flow 
quickly  into  the  tin,  see  Fig.  18. 
Do  not  merely  touch  the  point  of 
the  copper  to  the  joint  and  expect 
it  to  heat  that  joint :  it  won't.  Two 
faces  of  the  point  of  the  copper 
should  rest  against  the  parts 
of  the  work  to  be  soldered, 
thus  transmitting  heat  to  the 
pieces  as  shown  in  Fig.  19.  If 
too  much  of  the  point  is  al- 
lowed to  come  in  contact  with 
the  work,  the  solder  will  be 
smeared  over  the  work  in  a 
broad  unnecessary  stream.  This 
is  the  reason  that  the  points 
of  coppers  are  filed  slightly  round- 
ing toward  the  point. 
Remember:  That  the  copper  must  be  hot  enough 

to  make  the  solder  glisten. 

That  a  red-hot  copper  will  not  pick  up  solder. 


IMCORRECT 

FIG.  19. 


SOLDERING  77 

That  a  red-hot  copper  burns  away  the  flux,  and 
that  it  destroys  the  tinning  at  the  point  of  the  cop- 
per; a  red  head  also  oxidizes  the  solder,  making  it 
brittle  and  weak. 

That  solder  will  not  fill  up  a  gap  in  a  joint  unless 
in  very  expert  hands;  joints  should  fit  closely. 

That  a  good  joint  should  appear  smooth;  look 
as  if  painted  on.  A  smooth  joint  is  produced  by  a 
hot  copper,  clean  metal,  and  good  flux,  but  most  of 
all,  by  leaving  the  copper  long  enough  in  the  joint  to 
heat  it  thoroughly. 

That  small  joints  are  heated  and  soldered  al- 
most instantly. 

That  large  joints  require  a  longer  time  to  heat 
up  and  that  very  heavy  work  requires  a  large  cop- 
per and  sometimes  an  outside  source  of  heat  as  well 
— but  we  have,  nothing  to  do  with  such  work  in 
this  book. 

That  work  must  be  held  together  until  the  solder 
sets  or  turns  gray,  as  it  may  spring  apart  while  the 
solder  is  molten. 

These  are  all  very  simple  facts  and  should  not  be 
difficult  to  remember. 

To  continue  with  the  practice  piece :  As  soon  as 
the  solder  has  run  in  and  around  one  end  of  the 
practice  joint,  remove  the  copper  and  solder  the 
joint  at  the  other  end  of  the  piece.  As  these  joints 
are  small,  they  should  heat  up  and  solder  very 
quickly.  One  heating  of  the  copper  should  do  for 


78  MAKING  TIN  CAN  TOYS 

both  joints,  but  be  sure  that  the  copper  is  hot  enough 
before  you  try  the  second  joint. 

If  difficulty  is  experienced  in  making  your  first 
joint  and  it  does  not  stick  together,  apply  more  flux 
and  try  again. 

The  handle  may  be  soldered  to  the  biscuit  cutter 
in  the  same  manner  after  the  practice  piece  is  suc- 
cessfully completed. 

Another  Method  of  Applying  Solder. — Some- 
times bits  of  solder  may  be  cut  from  the  strip  of 
wire  solder  and  placed  in  the  joint  to  be  soldered. 
The  hot  soldering  copper  is  then  used  to  melt  the 
solder  into  the  joint.  The  joint  must  be  well  fluxed 
before  the  solder  is  placed  in  position. 

The  end  of  a  strip  of  wire  solder  is  sometimes 
held  against  the  point  of  a  hot  copper  as  it  is  moved 
along  a  joint  to  be  soldered.  The  solder  is  fed 
against  the  point  of  the  hot  copper  as  it  melts  into 
the  joint. 

Both  of  the  above  methods  will  be  found  advan- 
tageous when  a  gaping  joint  is  to  be  filled  with  solder 
and  it  is  desirable  to  apply  a  quantity  of  solder  in 
one  place. 


CHAPTER  VI 
COOKY  CUTTERS 

THE  PINE  TREE  DESIGN CUTTING  NARROW  STRIPS 

OF  TIN BENDING  TO  SHAPE  OVER  DESIGN SOL- 
DERING COOKY  CUTTERS THE  HANDLE 

COOKY  cutters  of  any  simple  design  may  easily 
be  made  from  strips  and  pieces  of  tin  cut  from  cans. 
They  may  be  made  to  stamp  out  any  simple  design 
from  the  cake  dough,  such  as  flowers,  leaves,  trees, 
animals,  boats,  various  insignia,  etc. 

When  making  the  design  for  a  cooky  cutter,  re- 
member that  raisins,  currants,  pieces  of  citron,  nuts, 
etc.,  may  be  added  to  the  cookies  after  stamping 
them  out  and  used  to  accentuate  the  design,  as  eyes 
of  animals,  fruit  on  trees,  etc. 

First  draw  the  design  on  paper  exactly  the  same 
size  you  wish  the  cooky  to  be  and  be  sure  to  use  a 
very  simple  outline,  taking  care  not  to  introduce  too 
many  intricate  bends  and  to  remember  that  a  strip 
of  tin  must  be  bent  to  follow  the  outline  of  the  draw- 
ing. Also  remember  that  cake  dough  is  not  of  very 
tough  material  and  will  easily  break  if  cut  in  too 
narrow  a  strip  in  any  place  or  part  of  the  design. 

Do  not  try  to  make  too  realistic  a  design  but 
rather  one  that  suggests  the  desired  object.  The 
pine  or  Christmas  tree  design  is  a  very  simple  one 
to  make. 

79 


8o  MAKING  TIN  CAN  TOYS 

The  Pine  Tree  Design. — First  draw  the  pine 
tree  on  paper,  taking  care  to  have  both  sides  of  the 
tree  alike,  Fig.  20.  A  very  simple  method  of  obtain- 
ing this  result  is  to  fold  the  paper  exactly  in  half, 
open  the  paper  out  flat  again  and  draw  one-half  of 
the  tree,  using  the  folded  line  as 
the  center  of  the  tree  and  using 
a  soft  pencil  to  draw  with.  Fold 
the  paper  together  again  using 
the  same  fold  line,  place  the  folded 
paper  on  a  hard  surface  and  rub 
the  paper  over  the  drawing  with 
the  bowl  of  a  spoon  so  that  the 
design  is  transferred  to  the  other 
half  of  the  paper,  so  that  when 
FIG.  20.  the  paper  is  unf0ided  the  design  will 
be  completed  and  both  sides  of  the  design  will 
be  alike. 

Cutting  Narrow  Strips  of  Tin. — When  you  have 
a  satisfactory  design  drawn,  cut  open  a  large  can  so 
that  when  the  tin  from  the  can  is  flattened  out  you 
may  cut  from  it  a  strip  long  enough  to  bend  around 
and  conform  to  your  design  and  have  only  one  joint. 
Be  sure  to  trim  up  one  edge  of  the  tin  to  a  straight 
line  before  starting  to  mark  off  a  strip  y2  inch  in 
width,  using  the  dividers  for  the  marking  operation 
as  shown  in  Chapter  II,  page  35.  Be  sure  to  cut 
your  strip  as  straight  as  possible  and  of  exactly  the 
same  width  for  its  entire  length. 


COOKY  CUTTERS 


81 


Bending  to  Shape  Over  Design. — When  the  strip 
is  cut,  bring  the  ends  of  the  strip  together  and  press 
the  bend  in  to  form  an  angle.  This  angle  will  not 


FIG.  21. 

only  form  the  top  of  the  tree  but  will  mark  the 
center  of  the  strip  as  well.  Bend  the  strip  apart 
until  it  conforms  to  the  design  on  paper  from  the 
top  of  the  tree  to  the  first  bend  on  one  side  as  shown 
in  Fig.  21.  Mark  the  strip  of  tin  at  A.  A. 

Take  the  flat-nosed  pliers  and  bend  the  tin  in  on 
6 


82  MAKING  TIN  CAN  TOYS 

each  side  to  conform  to  the  line  B.  Let  the  ends  of 
the  strip  go  past  each  other  as  shown  in  Fig.  21,2, 
and  in  the  illustration  of  bending.  Next  bend  both 
ends  of  the  strip  at  C.  C.  and  so  on  until  the  complete 
outline  of  the  tree  drawn  on  paper  is  followed  by 
the  strip  of  tin.  The  various  steps  in  the  bending 
are  shown  in  Fig.  21,  i  to  6.  The  joint  at  the 
bottom  of  the  design  should  overlap  about  54  inch. 

This  joint  may  be  held  together  with  the  flat- 
nosed  pliers  and  soldered.  Take  care  to  have  the 
ends  that  are  to  be  soldered  square  with  the  rest  of 
the  design  so  that  when  the  cutting  strip  is  placed 
flat  down  on  the  cutting  board  all  the  cutting  edges 
will  touch  evenly  and  cut  well. 

When  you  have  the  ends  of  the  cutting  strip 
soldered  together,  cut  out  a  rectangular  piece  of  tin 
somewhat  larger  than  the  design,  at  least  )4  mcn 
larger  in  every  direction.  See  that  this  piece  of  tin 
is  perfectly  flat  and  free  from  wrinkles. 

Look  carefully  at  the  cutting  strip  and  see  that 
it  conforms  closely  to  the  design  and  then  lay  it  in 
the  center  of  the  rectangular  piece  of  tin. 

Secure  a  thin  piece  of  wood  slightly  larger  than 
the  design.  Wood  from  a  packing  box  will  do. 

This  strip  of  wood  is  held  in  place  on  top  of  the 
cutting  strip  in  order  to  hold  it  when  soldering  the 
strip  to  keep  it  perfectly  flat,  and  to  prevent  burning 
the  fingers.  The  cutting  strip  gets  very  hot  when  it 
is  being  soldered  in  place. 


COOKY  CUTTERS 


Soldering  Cooky  Cutters  Together.— See  that 
your  soldering  copper  is  well  heated  and  tinned; 
apply  soldering  paste  to  the  entire  joint  where  the 
cutting  strip  rests  on  the  flat  piece  of  tin  and  then 
apply  the  solder  -carefully  in  the  usual  manner  with 
the  hot  soldering  copper. 

It  will  be  found  comparatively  easy  to  apply 
solder  to  the  longer  parts  of  the  strip,  such  as  those 
forming  the  sides  of  the  tree, 
but  do  not  attempt  to  solder  in 
the  narrow  crevice  or  crevices 
formed  between  the  tree  foli- 
age, the  trunk,  and  the  top. 
Solder  only  where  it  is  easy  to 
introduce  the  point  of  the 
soldering  copper,  then  apply 
solder  inside  that  part  of  the 
design  forming  the  tree  trunk 
as  illustrated  in  Fig.  23  by 

The  cutting  strip  need  not  be  soldered  to  the  flat 
piece  of  tin  forming  the  back  in  every  small  crevice 
that  is  not  convenient  to  the  soldering  copper.  But 
it  must  be  soldered  in  such  a  way  as  to  prevent  the 
cutting  strip  from  bending  out  of  shape  when  used 
for  cutting.  So,  if  you  may  not  solder1  it  outside, 
solder  it  inside. 

Be  sure  and  hold  the  cutting  strip  firmly  down 
to  the  flat  tin  with  a  flat  piece  of  wood  when  solder- 
ing. If  the  soldering  does  not  go  along  well,  stop 


FIG.  22. 
the    dark    lines. 


84  MAKING  TIN  CAN  TOYS 

and  read  over  Chapters  IV  and  V  on  soldering. 
Take  plenty  of  time  and  make  a  good  job  of  it. 

When  the  cutting  strip  is  firmly  soldered  to  the 
tin,  trim  away  the  edges  until  they  appear  as  shown  in 
Plate  VIII.  Do  not  try  to  follow  every  indentation 
in  the  design  but  cut  to  the  general  smooth  shape 
indicated  which  leaves  no  sharp  corners.  The  edges 
of  the  tin  forming  the  back  of  the  cutter  may  be 
smoothed  over  with  a  small  piece  of  fine  emery  cloth 
or  fine  sand-paper.  Rubbing  the  edges  gently  with  the 
emery  cloth  will  dull  them  so  that  they  are  less  apt 
to  cut  the  fingers.  This  applies  only  to  the  flat  piece 
of  tin  forming  the  back  or  top  of  the  cutter,  for  the 
edges  of  the  cutting  strip  should  be  left  sharp. 

Punch  two  or  more  holes  through  the  back  of  the 
cooky  cutter  to  form  air  vents  as  you  did  when 
making  the  biscuit  cutter. 

The  Handle.— A  handle  may  be  made  for  the 
cooky  cutter  in  exactly  the  same  way  as  the  handle 
made  for  the  biscuit  cutter.  A  strip  of  tin  il/4  inches 
wide  and  4  inches  long,  is  about  the  right  size  for 
the  handle.  The  edges  are  folded  in  and  the  strip  is 
rounded  over  an  anvil  and  soldered  into  place  as 
indicated  in  the  photograph. 

The  edges  of  the  handle  should  rest  directly  over 
the  cutting  strip  under  it. 

When  finished,  the  cooky  cutter  should  be  boiled 
up  in  the  lye  bath  or  washed  with  hot  water  and 
stro.ng  soap  and  then  it  is  ready  for  use. 


PLATE  VIII 


Cooky  cutter  and  tray  candlestick  made  by  the  author 


Ash  trays  made  by  the  author 


CHAPTER  VII 

TRAYS 

TURNING  OVER  EDGES  ON  ROUND  TRAYS USING  THE 

FORMING  MALLET MAKING  AN  ASH  TRAY  AND 

MATCH  BOX  HOLDER 

VARIOUS  round  trays  may  be  made  from  tin 
cans.  These  are  very  simple  to  make  and  are  very 
attractive  and  convenient  for  ash  trays,  bottle 
casters  and  the  like.  A  match  box  holder  may  be 
soldered  to  the  center  of  the  tray  and  any  smoker 
will  appreciate  this.  These  simple  trays  have 
proved  to  be  one  of  the  most  popular  problems  for 
certain  wounded  soldiers  in  an  American  base  hos- 
pital in  France. 

Turning  Over  Edges  on  Round  Trays. — Select 
a  rather  large  can  to  cut  down  for  a  tray.  A  can 
from  4  to  6  inches  in  diameter  is  best  with  which  to 
start  tray  making.  This  can  should  be  round,  as  the 
square  cans  are  very  difficult,  if  not  impossible,  to 
handle  when  turning  over  an  edge. 

Set  the  dividers  to  i%  inches  and  scribe  a  line 
parallel  to  the  bottom  of  the  can.  Cut  the  can  down 
and  be  careful  to  cut  it  off  as  straight  as  possible  at 
the  scribed  line. 

85 


86 


MAKING  TIN  CAN  TOYS 


Place  a  square  maple  block  in  the  vise ;  the  same 
maple  block  you  have  used  for  turning  the  edges  of 
the  handle  for  the  biscuit  cutter.  Be  sure  that  the 
edges  of  the  block  are  square  and  sharp. 

Set  the  dividers  to  l/4  inch,  rest  one  leg  of  the 
dividers  on  the  rim  of  the  tray  and  scribe  a  line 


FIG.  23. 

around  the  inside,  l/4  inch  down  from  the  edge,  as 
indicated  in  Fig.  23. 

Rest  the  edge  of  the  tray  on  the  edge  of  the 
wooden  block  so  that  the  line  scribed  54  mcn  down 
from  the  edge  rests  directly  over  the  edge  of  the 
block  as  indicated  in  Fig.  24  a. 

Tilt  the  tray  back  on  the  block  until  the  edge  is 
raised  about  Vie  inch  up  from  the  surface  of  the 


TRAYS  87 

block,  the  line  still  resting  directly  over  the  edge 
of  the  block. 

Using  the  Forming  Mallet. — Take  up  the  special 
forming  mallet  and  use  the  rounded  end  to  start 
hammering  the  tin  down  to  the  block,  still  keeping 
the  tray  tilted  as  indicated  in  Fig.  24  b.  Turn  the 


FIG.  240. 


FIG.  246. 


tray  around  as  you  hammer  so  that  the  tray  is 
slightly  flanged  out  by  the  mallet  blows  as  you  turn 
it  around  on  the  block. 

Be  sure  to  hammer  the  tin  very  gently  and  evenly, 
taking  care  not  to  stretch  it  down  more  in  one  place 
than  another.  Tin  will  stand  considerable  stretch- 
ing if  handled  gently  and  evenly,  but  heavy  mallet 
blows  will  stretch  and  crack  it,  and  it  will  tear  if 
unevenly  stretched. 


88 


MAKING  TIN  CAN  TOYS 


Never  raise  the  edge  of  the  tray  away  from  the 
block  more  than  Vic  of  an  inch,  but  always  tilt  the 
tray  back  a  little  more  each  time  you  hammer  en- 
tirely around  it.  The  tin  will  quickly  flange  out  and 
after  having  hammered  entirely  around  the  tray 


FIG.  25. 


FIG.  26. 


three  or  four  times,  the  rim  should  flange  out  to 
about  the  angle  indicated  in  Fig.  25,  No.  in. 

Try  to  hammer  in  such  a  way  as  to  flange  the 
tin  over  evenly  from  the  scribed  line.  The  mallet 
blows  should  be  directed  in  toward  the  line  which 
always  rests  at  the  edge  of  the  block,  rather  than 
toward  the  edge  of  the  tin. 

When  the  edge  has  been  turned  over  as  far  as 


TRAYS  89 

indicated  in  Fig.  25,  No.  in,  change  the  position  of 
the  tray  and  rest  the  bottom  of  it  on  the  top  of  the 
block  and  hammer  gently  on  the  edge  as  indicated  in 
Fig.  25  until  the  edge  or  flange  stands  out  at  right 
angles  to  the  side  of  the  tray.  Continue  hammering 
until  the  edge  of  the  tray  stands  at  about  the  angle 
indicated  in  Fig.  25,  No.  v. 

Remove  the  maple  block  from  the  vise  and 
secure  a  round  wooden  mallet  in  it,  the  mallet  being 
about  2.Y-2  or  3  inches  in  diameter,  or  a  piece  of  iron 
pipe,  if  held  in  the  vise,  may  be  used  for  an  anvil 
instead  of  the  mallet. 

Hang  the  tray  over  the  end  of  the  mallet  or  pipe 
and  hold  it  firmly  in  position,  turning  it  slowly 
around  the  anvil  as  the  edge  is  hammered  down  to 
the  side  of  the  tray,  Fig.  26. 

Do  not  try  to  hammer  the  edge  down  all  at  once, 
but  go  entirely  around  the  turned  flange  or  edge  sev- 
eral times  with  the  mallet,  hammering  very  lightly 
and  bending  the  edge  down  more  each  time  the  tray 
is  hammered  around.  The  flanges  or  turned  part 
will  wrinkle  slightly  during  the  turning,  but  if  the 
edge  has  been  turned  evenly  and  slowly  from  the 
start,  this  wrinkling  will  not  matter,  as  the  wrinkles 
will  gradually  hammer  out.  Try  to  hammer  in  such 
a  way  that  the  edge  or  top  of  the  tray  will  remain 
rounded  and  not  get  hammered  together  (Fig.  27). 


go  MAKING  TIN  CAN  TOYS 

When  the  edge  is  turned  completely  in  and 
touches  the  sides,  reverse  the  forming  mallet  and  use 
the  wedge-shaped  end  to  hammer  the  wrinkles  out, 
taking  care  to  hammer  inside  the  edge  so  as  not  to 
flatten  the  edge  of  the  tray,  Fig.  28.  The  edge  should 
look  like  Fig.  27,  and  then  your  tray  is  finished  and 
ready  to  be  boiled  up  in  the  lye  solution  and  painted. 
The  edges  of  the  tray  may  be  made  of  any  height 
that  suits  the  maker,  but 
never  try  to  turn  over  less 
than  l/4  inch  at  the  edge 
nor  anymore  than  ^  inch, 
as  either  operation  is  very 
difficult,  if  not  impossible. 
The  tin  is  taken  up  con- 
siderably  in  the  turning 
and  the  }4  inch  marked  off 
for  the  turned  edge  of  the  tray  described  above  will 
be  about  3/16  of  an  mch  when  turned. 

This  turning  operation  is  used  a  great  deal  tot 
finishing  the  edges  of  different  cylindrical  and 
curved  surfaces  used  in  the  tin  can  work,  as  a  sharp 
thin  edge  should  never  be  left  about  the  work. 

Making  an  Ash  Tray  and  Match  Box  Holder. — 
Make  a  tray  about  6  inches  in  diameter  and  ^4 
of  an  inch  in  height  when  the  edge  is  turned  over, 
and  then  find  a  smaller  can  about  2V2  inches  in  diam- 


TRAYS  91 

eter,  such  as  a  soup  or  baking  powder  can.  Scribe 
a  line  around  this  can  I  inch  from  the  base.  Cut  the 
can  down  to  this  line  and  place  the  can  bottom  up  in 
the  center  of  the  bottom  of  the  first  tray,  holding  it 
in  position  with  a  stick  of  wood  and  soldering  it 
to  the  tray. 


FIG.  28. 


FIG.  29. 


Open  a  box  of  safety  matches  and  measure  the 
diameter  of  the  end  of  the  box  part  that  holds  the 
matches.  The  usual  measurement  of  the  end  of  the 
inside  box  is  ^  by  I  ft  inches. 

Cut  a  strip  of  tin  ft  of  an  inch  wide  and  2^ 
inches  long.  Make  a  mark  y2  inch  from  each  end 
of  the  strip  and  bend  the  tin  at  right  angles  at  each 
end,  using  each  mark  for  the  bend. 


MAKING  TIN  CAN  TOYS 


The  strip  should  then  appear  as)  shown  in  Fig. 
29,  A.  Solder  this  strip  in  the  center  of  the  small 
can  as  shown  in  Fig.  29,  B,  but  make  sure  that  the 
cover  of  the  match  box  will  slide  over  it  before  sol- 
dering it  fast. 

Cut  two  pieces  of  tin  il/2  inches  wide  and  2l/2 
inches  in  length.  See 
that  they  are  cut  per- 
fectly square.  Mark 
off  a  line  l/4  inch  in 
from  one  end  of  each 
piece  and  turn  the  tin 
at  right  angles  from 
this  mark  to  the  edge. 
The  corners  at  the 
opposite  ends  of 
each  piece  should  be 
rounded  off  by  cut- 
ting with  the  shears  as 
shown  in  Fig.  29,  C. 
Round  over  the  edges 
with  some  fine  emery  cloth.  Place  the  cover  of  the 
match  box  in  position  over  the  strip  of  tin  soldered 
to  the  can  in  the  center  of  the  tray.  Place  the  two 
pieces  of  tin  against  the  two  opposite  sides  of  the 
match  box  as  shown  in  Fig.  29.  Then  move  them 
slightly  away  from  the  box  and  mark  the  position  of 
the  flanged  ends  where  they  rest  on  the  can,  remove 
the  box  cover  and  solder  these  pieces  of  tin  in  place. 


PIG.  30. 


TRAYS  93 

Be  sure  to  solder  these  pieces  in  such  a  way  that  the 
match  box  cover  will  slip  between  them  easily  and  fit 
over  the  bent  strip  of  tin  at  the  bottom.  The  ash 
tray  and  match  box  holder  will  then  be  completed 
and  ready  for  the  lye  bath  and  painting. 

An  extra  coat  of  some  high-grade  spar  varnish 
should  be  given  the  ash  trays  to  prevent  the  hot 
ashes  from  burning  the  paint.  This  varnish  should 
only  be  applied  after  the  first  coat  or  coats  of  paint 
are  thoroughly  dry. 

The  height  of  the  trays  at  the  edge  may  be 
altered  to  suit  and  also  the  height  and  shape  of  the 
can  soldered  to  the  center  of  the  tray.  The  measure- 
ments are  merely  given  for  convenience  in  working 
out  these  first  problems.  Every  effort  should  be 
made  to  think  out  problems  of  your  own,  taking  the 
suggestions  from  the  shapes  of  the  cans  themselves. 
Thus  a  square  can  may  be  soldered  in  the  center  of 
the  tray,  and  small  semi-cylindrical  troughs  of  tin 
may  be  soldered  to  the  rim  of  the  tray  to  hold 
lighted  cigars  and  cigarettes. 


CHAPTER  VIII 
A  TRAY  CANDLESTICK 

THE  CANDLE  SOCKET CUTTING  A  HOLE  IN  THE  DRIP 

CUP MAKING  THE   HANDLE 

AFTER  the  ash  tray  and  match  box  holder  is  suc- 
cessfully completed  the  next  problem  that  should  be 
taken  up  is  the  tray  candlestick,  a  photograph  of 
which  is  shown  on  the  opposite  page.  This  problem 
presents  some  interesting  and  instructive  forming 
and  soldering  operations  and  should  be  made  before 
attempting  to  make  the  toy  auto  truck. 

Two  trays  should  first  be  made  up — one  to  be 
used  for  the  base  of  the  candlestick  and  one  for  the 
drip  cup.  The  edges  of  both  trays  should  be  turned 
over  carefully. 

The  Candle  Socket.— The  next  thing  to  be  made 
is  the  candle  socket  which  is  also  used  to  connect 
both  trays.  Cut  a  piece  of  tin  2^4  by  3^/2  inches, 
set  the  dividers  to  ^4  mcn  and  scribe  a  line  54  mcn 
inside  three  edges  of  the  piece  as  shown  in  Fig.  31, 
No.  i.  Clip  off  the  corners  and  fold  down  the  strip 
marked  A,  flat  against  the  tin.  C  and  B  should  be 
partially  folded  over  but  not  closed  up,  Fig.  31, 
No.  2.  These  two  flaps,  C  and  B  are  to  be  locked 
together  to  form  a  locked  seam  as  shown  in  No.  3. 

94 


A  TRAY  CANDLESTICK 


95 


If  this  seam  or  joint  were  merely  lapped  and 
soldered  together  the  candle  socket  would  melt  apart 
if  the  candle  should  be  allowed  to  burn  down  inside  it. 

Place  a  small  bar  of  iron  in  the  vise  jaws — this 


"\ 


FIG.  31. 

bar  or  pipe  should  be  about  ^  inch  in  diameter  and 
is  used  as  an  anvil  over  which  to  round  up  the 
candle  socket. 

Lay  the  piece  of  tin  that  is  to  be  used  for  the 
candle  socket  over  the  anvil  with  the  fold  A  upper- 


96 


MAKING  TIN  CAN  TOYS 


SOL&ER 


most — bend  the  tin  around  the  anvil  with  the  hand 
or  with  light  mallet  blows,  taking  care  not  to  close 
up  the  flaps  B  and  C  as  you  round  the  piece  over  the 
anvil.  You  will  not  be  able  to  get  the  socket  into  a 
perfect  cylindrical  shape  at  first  and  until  B  and  C 
are  fitted  together  as  shown  in  No.  3.  Simply  round 
the  piece  up  as  best  you  can  until  flap  B  fits  into 
flap  C.  Then  use  a  pair 
of  flat-nosed  pliers  to 
pinch  B  and  C  together 
as  shown  in  No.  4. 

When  the  two  seams 
are   fitted   together    or 
locked  the  socket  should 
be  again  placed  on  the 
bar  and  the  hammering 
continued     until     the 
socket  is  cylindrical  and  the  seam  hammered  together. 
Examine  a  tin  can — most  of  them  have  locked 
seams  at  the  side. 

If  carefully  made,  this  socket  should  fit  a  com- 
mon candle  which  is  %  of  an  inch  in  diameter. 

Cutting  a  Hole  in  the  Drip  Cup.— When  the 
candle  socket  is  completed,  a  hole  should  be  cut  for 
it  through  the  bottom  of  the  drip  cup.  The  socket 
is  slipped  through  this  hole  until  the  bottom  of  the 
flange  A  rests  against  the  bottom  of  the  drip  cup, 
see  Fig.  32.  A  small  chisel  should  be  used  to  cut 
the  hole  through  the  bottom  of  the  drip  cup.  The 


PIG.  32. 


A  TRAY  CANDLESTICK  97 

drip  cup  is  rested  on  a  small  block  of  wood  which  is 
held  in  the  vise  jaws,  and  the  chisel  used  in  the 
same  manner  as  a  punch,  the  end  of  the  wooden 
block  supporting  the  tin  as  the  chisel  cuts  through 
it.  The  cutting  edge  of  the  chisel  should  be  about 
Yz  -inch  wide  and  should  be  very  sharp.  Such  a  chisel 
may  be  purchased  at  most  tool  dealers  or  a  ^-inch 
nail-set  may  be  purchased  and  the  end  ground  to  a 
chisel  point  on  a  grindstone.  A  common  steel  nail 
may  be  used  for  a  chisel  if  the  point  is  filed  off 
entirely  and  the  end  of  the  nail  filed  to  a  chisel  point. 
The  shank  of  the  nail  should  be  ^  inch  in  diameter. 

Set  the  bottom  edge  of  the  candle  socket  in  the 
center  of  the  drip  cup  and  trace  a  line  around  it  with 
a  sharp  pencil  or  a  steel  scriber.  Then  place  the  drip 
cup  on  a  block  of  wood  and  cut  out  the  disk  of  tin 
inside  the  line,  using  a  series  of  chisel  cuts  to  follow 
the  line.  Take  care  not  to  cut  the  hole  too  large — it 
should  just  fit  the  candle  socket  as  shown  in  the  sec- 
tional drawing,  Fig.  32.  A  half-round  file  may  be 
used  to  file  away  any  rough  or  jagged  edges  left  by 
the  chisel  cutting. 

Making  the  Handle. — A  handle  should  next  be 
made  from  a  piece  of  tin  il/2  by  8  inches.  The 
handle  should  be  made  tapering  and  a  dimensioned 
drawing  for  this  is  shown  in  Fig.  33.  When  the 
tin  is  cut  to  the  shape  shown  the  dividers  should  be 
set  to  Vie  inch  and  a  line  scribed  3A6  inch  inside 
each  side  of  the  handle.  The  tin  should  be  folded 
7 


9s 


MAKING  TIN  CAN  TOYS 


over  on  these  lines  so  that  the  sides  of  the  handle 
will  be  nicely  rounded  and  made  stronger.  Direc- 
tions for  making  a  straight  fold  will  be  found  on 
page  50  and  need  not  be  repeated  here  as  the  opera- 
tion is  very  simple. 


The  handle  should  be  shaped  as  shown  in  Fig.  34. 
It  may  be  shaped  or  formed  up  by  placing  it  over  a 
round  anvil  and  using  a  mallet  in  exactly  the  same 
way  that  the  handle  of  the  biscuit  cutter  was  formed, 


FIG.  34.  FIG.  35. 

see  Fig.  35,  except  that  the  handle  for  the  candle- 
stick will  have  a  better  appearance  if  the  folds  are 
left  on  the  outside,  see  Fig.  34. 

The  ends  of  the  handle  should  be  bent  over  at 
right  angles  as  shown  in  Fig.  34.     The  small  end 


A  TRAY  CANDLESTICK  99 

hooks  over  the  drip  cup  and  the  large  end  hooks  over 
the  edge  of  the  tray  or  bottom  of  the  candlestick. 

The  different  parts  of  the  candlestick  are  now 
ready  to  be  soldered  together.  The  socket  should 
be  fitted  into  the  drip  cup  and  these  two  soldered 
together  first.  Apply  the  solder  to  the  bottom  of  the 
drip  cup  and  socket  in  the  angle  where  the  socket  and 
the  drip  cup  meet,  as  shown  in  Fig.  32. 

When  the  socket  and  the  drip  cup  are  soldered 
together  they  should  be  set  in  position  in  the  center 
of  the  bottom  tray  and  soldered  in  place.  (The 
candlestick  will  have  a  much  better  appearance  if 
the  seams  in  the  side  of  the  drip  cup,  socket,  and 
bottom  tray  are  in  line  with  each  other  when  the 
candlestick  is  soldered  together. ) 

The  handle  is  the  last  thing  to  put  in  place  and 
it  is  soldered  to  the  drip  cup  and  to  the  bottom  tray 
— which  will  complete  the  candlestick. 

Many  pleasing  varieties  of  this  simple  and  prac- 
tical candlestick  may  be  made  by  changing  the  diam- 
eter and  shape  of  the  cans  used  for  the  trays  and 
the  length  of  the  candle  socket  and  the  shape  of 
the  handle. 


CHAPTER  IX 

RIVETING 

MAKING  A  PAIL  FROM  A  TIN  CAN CUTTING  AWAY 

THE  SURPLUS  TIN  AT  THE  RIM FORMING  THE 

LUGS  FOR  THE  HANDLE RIVETING  THE  LUGS  IN 

POSITION FORMING  A  WIRE  HANDLE 

RIVETING  is  one  of  the  most  useful  operations 
connected  with  metal  working  of  all  kinds,  and  it  is 
very  frequently  used  in  tin  working  where  it  is  not 
advisable  to  join  the  metal  with  solder;  or  riveting 
may  be  employed  in  connection  with  a  soldered  joint 
to  strengthen  it  and  to  prevent  the  joined  pieces  from 
melting  off,  such  as  the  lugs  or  handle  holders  on  a 
pail  used  for  cooking,  etc. 

Riveting  is  a  very  simple  operation.  The  rivets 
are  usually  made  with  a  flat  or  rounded  head  attached 
to  a  short  cylindrical  shaft  or  shank.  A  hole  is 
punched  through  each  piece  of  metal  to  be  joined. 
The  pieces  of  metal  are  placed  together  so  that  the 
holes  are  in  line  and  a  rivet  shank  slipped  through 
these  holes.  The  head  of  the  rivet  is  then  rested  on 
a  flat  iron  or  steel  anvil  and  the  headless  end  is  ham- 
mered over  until  it  forms  into  a  second  head  and 
thus  holds  the  two  pieces  of  metal  tightly  together. 

The  pail  offers  a  very  simple  problem  in  riveting 


RIVETING  ioi 

and  it  is  very  easy  to  make  a  substantial  pail  from 
a  tin  can. 

Making  a  Pail.— Select  a  large,  clean,  round  can 
for  the  pail.  A  one-gallon  fruit  or  vegetable  can 
makes  up  into  a  very  useful  pail.  Use  a  can  opener 
to  cut  away  the  remaining  tin  of  the  lid  but  take  care 
not  to  mar  the  rim  of  the  can.  Rolled  rim  cans  make 
the  best  pails. 

When  the  lid  is  cut  away  a  jagged  edge  usually 
remains  near  the  rim  and  this  must  be  trimmed  away 
and  the  remaining  tin  hammered  down  close  to  the 
rim.  If  more  than  %  mcn  °f  the  tin  of  the  can  lid 
remains  next  to  the  rim  of  the  can  it  should  be 
trimmed  away  with  the  metal  shears  until  a  strip  of 
tin  remains  next  to  the  rim  about  %  inch  wide. 

Cutting  Away  Surplus  Tin  at  the  Rim. — (A  pair 
of  curved  metal  shears  are  very  useful  for  making 
circular  cuts  of  this  nature  if  you  have  them,  but 
the  surplus  tin  may  be  trimmed  away  with  the 
straight  shears  if  small  cuts  are  taken  with  them.) 
Cut  into  the  tin  next  to  the  rim  with  the  shears — 
the  cut  should  be  made  at  right  angles  to  the  rim 
and  extend  in  to  the  rim.  Now  take  a  pair  of  strong 
flat-nosed  pliers  and  grasp  the  tin  firmly  with  them 
to  the  right  of  the  cut  and  with  a  quick  downward 
motion  of  the  plier  jaws  start  to  break  away  the  tin 
next  to  the  rim  as  shown  in  Fig.  36.  The  tin  will 
break  away  at  the  angle  of  the  lid  and  the  rim  and 
should  peel  away  easily  with  a  series  of  quick  down- 


io2  MAKING  TIN  CAN  TOYS 

ward  movements  of  the  plier  jaws — a  fresh  grip 
should  be  taken  for  each  downward  movement  of 
the  plier  jaws  and  the  ends  of  the  plier  jaws  should  be 
pushed  up  against  the  rim  each  time  that  they  are 
moved  into  a  new  position. 

When  the  tin  is  trimmed  away  place  the  rim  of 
the  can  on  the  end  of  the  maple  block  and  use  the 
rounded  end  of  the  forming  mallet  to  hammer  the 


FIG.  36. 

tin  down  tight  to  the  rim,  see  Fig.  37.  The  pail  is 
then  ready  for  the  lugs  or  handle-holding  pieces  at 
the  sides.  These  are  to  be  soldered  and  riveted 
in  place. 

Forming  the  Lugs  for  the  Handle. — Cut  two 
pieces  of  tin,  each  il/2  by  3^2  inches,  fold  over 
YA,  inch  on  each  of  the  long  sides  of  these  two  pieces, 
then  double  over  each  piece  with  the  folds  outside, 
as  shown  in  Fig.  38.  Snip  off  the  corners,  then 
place  the  lugs  on  the  maple  block  and  punch  three 
holes  in  about  the  position  shown.  See  that  the 


RIVETING 


103 


holes  are  slightly  larger  than  the  shanks  of  the  rivets 
to  be  used,  but  do  not  get  the  holes  very  much  larger 
than  the  rivets. 

Rivets  are  supplied  by  the  hardware  stores  in 
plain  soft  black  iron  and  also  tinned.  The  tinned 
rivets  are  best  for  tin  work  as  they  may  be  easily 
soldered  to  the  work  if  necessary.  These  tinned 
rivets  are  used  for  representing  faucets,  try-cocks, 


FIG.  37. 


FIG.  38. 


etc.,  in  making  tin  can  toys.  Several  dozen  or  a  box 
of  No.  14  Tinned  Rivets  should  be  purchased. 

Riveting  the  Lugs  in  Position. — Solder  the  two 
lugs  in  position  on  each  side  of  the  top  of  the  pail. 
These  two  holes  should  come  below  the  rim. 

Place  the  pail  over  a  round  log  of  wood  held  in 
the  vise  and  punch  the  holes  A,  B  through  the  tin  of 
the  pail,  using  the  holes  previously  punched  in  the 
lugs  of  the  pail  as  a  guide. 

Remove  the  log  of  wood  from  the  vise  and  place 


104 


MAKING  TIN  CAN  TOYS 


a  large  piece  of  round  pipe  in  it  for  an  anvil  on  which 
to  rivet.  Push  a  rivet  through  the  hole  A,  and  place 
the  pail  on  the  pipe  in  such  a  manner  that  the  head 
of  the  rivet  rests  on  the  iron  pipe.  Take  a  small 
riveting  hammer  or  a  small  machine  hammer  and 
hammer  down  the  small  end  of  the  rivet  that  pro- 
jects above  the  work,  see  Figs.  39  and  40.  Hammer 


FIG.  39. 


FIG.  40. 


rather  gently  using  many  light  quick  blows  instead 
of  a  few  smashing  heavy  ones.  The  light  blows  tend 
to  form  a  better  head  on  the  rivet  and  to  hold  the 
metal  more  securely  in  place. 

After  you  have  had  some  experience  in  riveting, 
you  will  find  that  the  ball  peen,  or  rounded  end  of  a 
machine  hammer,  is  better  to  rivet  with  than  a  flat- 
ended  hammer. 

When  two  rivets  are  placed  in  each  of  the  lugs 
the  pail  is  ready  for  the  handle. 


RIVETING 


105 


w  Forming  a  Wire  Handle. — Pail  handles  may  be 
made  of  j/^-inch  galvanized  wire  or  any  piece  of 
strong,  stiff  wire  that  is  handy.  The  galvanized 
wire  is  best  as  it  will  not  rust. 

Cut  a  piece  of  wire  14  inches  in  length.     Do  not 


FIG.  41.  FIG.  42. 

try  to  cut  this  wire  with  your  metal  snips  but  use  a 
heavy  pair  of  wire-cutting  pliers  if  you  have  them.  A 
simple  method  of  cutting  wire  is  to  place  the  wire  in 
the  vise  and  use  the  corner  of  a  file  to  cut  through  it. 

Trying  to  cut  heavy  wire  with  the  metal  shears 
will  ruin  them ;  besides,  you  can't  do  it. 

Mark  off  i}%  inches  from  each  end  of  the  piece 


io6  MAKING  TIN  CAN  TOYS 

of  wire  you  have  cut  for  the  handle  and  bend  each 
end  down  at  right  angles  from  this  mark,  see 
Fig.  42,  A. 

This  may  be  easily  done  by  placing  the  wire  in 
the  vise  so  that  the  mark  for  bending  is  held  exactly 
at  the  top  of  the  vise  jaws,  then  use  a  hammer  to 
bend  the  wire  over  at  right  angles,  see  Fig.  41. 

Place  the  wire  over  the  pipe  held  in  the  vise  and 
use  a  wooden  mallet  to  round  it  over  to  the  form 
shown  in  Fig.  42,  B.  Slip  the  ends  of  the  wire 
handle  through  the  holes  punched  for  it  in  the  lugs 
on  the  pail  and  then  turn  the  wire  up  at  the  ends  with 
a  heavy  pair  of  pliers  until  it  looks  as  shown  in 
Fig.  42,  C,  and  the  pail  is  completed. 

If  the  pail  described  above  is  made  of  a  rolled- 
rim  can  it  may  be  safely  used  for  camp  cooking,  as 
there  is  no  danger  that  it  will  melt  apart  over  the 
fire.  When  a  spout  and  a  lid  are  added  to  the  pail, 
it  will  serve  as  an  excellent  coffee  pot.  A  coffee  pot 
and  other  cooking  utensils  are  shown  in  Fig.  95. 


CHAPTER  X 

MAKING  A  TOY  AUTO  TRUCK 

THE  WHEELS FOUR  WAYS  OF  MAKING  WHEELS  OF 

TIN  CANS — MAKING  A  WHEEL  FROM  A  CAN  WITH 

SOLDERED  ENDS MAKING  WHEELS  FROM  ROLJLED- 

RIM  CANS TWO  TYPES  OF  WHEELS  MADE  FROM 

CAN  LIDS 

A  VERY  simple  and  strong  toy  automobile  truck 
may  be  made  of  tin  cans.  If  the  foregoing  prob- 
lems have  been  carefully  worked  out,  there  is  no 
reason  why  one  should  find  the  truck  difficult  to 
make,  provided  the  directions  are  carefully  followed. 

As  the  construction  of  a  truck  is  typical  of  so 
many  wheeled  toys,  it  was  selected  as  the  best  type 
with  which  to  begin.  Various  fittings  may  be  added, 
such  as  lights,  fenders,  running  boards,  handles,  tool 
boxes,  etc.,  but  only  after  the  plain  truck  chassis, 
hood,  seat  and  wheels  have  been  successfully 
assembled.  This  first  real  problem  in  toy  making 
should  be  kept  as  simple  as  possible. 

Wheels  form  the  most  important  part  of  any 
rolling  toy,  so  these  will  be  taken  up  first  and  each 
method  of  making  them  discussed  at  length. 

Four  Ways  of  Making  Wheels  of  Tin  Cans.— 
Both  types  of  tin  cans  may  be  used  for  making 


io8  MAKING  TIN  CAN  TOYS 

wheels,  the  rolled  rim  and  the  soldered  flange  can, 
but  the  method  of  making  the  wheel  is  different  for 
each  type  of  can.  The  press-in  can  lids  from 
molasses  and  syrup  cans  may  also  be  used  for 
making  wheels. 

Making  a  Wheel  from  a  Can  with  Soldered  Ends. 
— Suitable  truck  wheels  may  be  made  from  the 
smallest  size  evaporated  milk  cans.  Condensed  milk 
cans  are  too  large  for  a  small  truck,  though  either 
of  the  above  mentioned  cans  have  the  soldered 
flanged  ends. 

The  contents  of  these  evaporated  milk  cans  is 
usually  poured  through  one  of  two  holes  punched 
through  the  cover.  This  renders  the  cover  prac- 
tically useless  for  making  one  side  of  the  wheel, 
unless  the  holes  are  small,  so  that  eight  cans  will 
have  to  be  used  for  making  four  wheels. 

If  the  cans  are  opened  on  the  side  with  a  can 
opener  but  four  cans  need  be  used,  as  each  end  of 
the  can  is  then  intact.  These  wheels  are  made  by 
removing  one  lid  from  the  can,  cutting  the  can  down 
to  the  required  wheel  width,  and  then  soldering  on 
the  lid  again.  When  the  ends  of  the  can  are  intact, 
the  can  is  cut  in  two  parts  by  cutting  around  the 
sides  of  the  can  with  the  can  opener.  One  part  of 
the  can  is  cut  down  to  the  required  height  as  in  mak- 
ing a  tray;  this  height  represents  the  width  of  the 
wheel.  The  end  is  melted  off  the  other  part  of  the 
can  and  this  end  is  placed  over  the  first  part  of  the 


MAKING  A  TOY  AUTO  TRUCK          109 

can  that  is  cut  to  the  width  of  the  wheel.    It  is  then 
soldered  in  place  and  the  wheel  is  made. 

If  plenty  of  evaporated  milk  cans  are  not  handy, 
it  is  better  to  buy  four  new,  filled  cans  from  the 
grocer,  as  these  small  cans  cost  only  eight  cents 
when  filled  with  milk. 


CAM  OPENER 


FIG.  43. 

Empty  the  cans  by  cutting  a  slit  in  the  side  with 
a  sharp  can  opener,  see  Fig.  43.  Hold  the  cans  over 
a  glass  or  jar  until  the  milk  runs  out  into  the  glass, 
then  rinse  the  cans  out  with  hot  water  which  will 
also  remove  the  label.  Continue  cutting  around  the 
can  with  the  can  opener  until  it  is  completely  cut  in 
half.  All  four  cans  should  be  emptied  and  cut  in  two 


no  MAKING  TIN  CAN  TOYS 

in  this  manner.    As  for  the  milk,  any  cook  will  know 
what  to  do  with  that. 

Open  the  dividers  to  ^  inch  and  scribe  a  line 
around  the  bottom  of  one  of  the  cans  that  has  been 
cut  in  two,  using  the  soldered  edge  of  the  rim  against 
which  to  rest  one  point  of  the  dividers,  as  shown  in 
Fig.  44.  Cut  away  the  surplus  tin  exactly  as  if  you 
were  making  a  tray.  If  the  cans  have  become  dented 
when  they  were  being  cut  with  the  can  opener,  place 
them  on  a  round  anvil  and  remove  the  dents  by 
hammering  gently  with  a  mallet. 


FIG.  44. 

Take  up  another  half  can  and  make  a  cut  from 
the  edge  down  to  the  flange  at  the  bottom  as  shown 
in  Fig.  45.  Take  an  old  pair  of  flat-nosed  pliers 
and  hold  it  over  an  open  flame,  such  as  a  gas  range 
or  the  flame  of  a  soldering  copper  heater,  until  the 
solder  shows  in  a  bright  line  at  the  joint  of  the  can 
and  lid,  then  take  the  forming  mallet  and  give  the 
lid  at  the  bottom  a  sharp  tap  or  two  with  it  which 
should  knock  the  lid  away  from  the  sides  of  the  can 
held  by  the  pliers,  see  Fig.  45.  Do  not  use  your 
good  pliers  to  hold  the  can  over  the  flame,  as  the 


MAKING  A  TOY  AUTO  TRUCK    in 

heat  will  soon  take  the  temper  out  of  them  and 
render  them  useless. 

It  is  not  necessary  to  get  the  can  red  hot  in 
order  to  melt  the  solder. 

When  the  lid  is  removed,  try  to  fit  it  on  the 
other  part  of  the  can  and  it  will  be  found  impossible 


FIG.  45. 


FIG.  46. 


to  force  the  tin  into  the  lid  without  denting  the 
sides  of  the  can.  The  rim  or  flange  at  the  edge  of 
the  lid  must  be  enlarged  in  order  to  place  the  lid 
back  on  the  can.  The  edge  of  the  sides  of  the  can 
to  be  fitted  into  the  lid  should  be  filed  with  a  small 
flat  file  to  remove  the  tin  raised  by  the  metal  shears 
when  cutting  around  the  can. 


ii2  MAKING  TIN  CAN  TOYS 

To  enlarge  the  rim  of  the  lid,  place  it  over  a 
piece  of  pipe  held  in  a  vise  and  hammer  the  rim  with 
a  light  hammer,  turning  the  lid  slowly  around  on 
the  anvil  as  you  hammer,  see  Fig.  46.  After  ham- 
mering completely  around  the  flange  once  or  twice, 
try  to  fit  the  lid  to  the  can  again.  It  should  fit  with- 
out much  hammering.  Squeeze  the  lid  on  the  can 
and  hammer  it  gently  into  place,  the  wheel  being 
placed  flat  on  the  bench  at  the  time.  Solder  the  lid 
in  place  and  the  wheel  is  finished  except  for  the 
axle  holes. 

A  small  drop  of  solder  will  be  found  on  the  lid 
of  all  evaporated  milk  cans.  Melt  this  away  with  a 
hot  soldering  copper  and  a  round  hole  will  be  found 
exactly  in  the  center  of  the  lid.  This  hole  may  be 
enlarged  to  fit  the  wire  used  for  the  axle. 

Find  the  center  of  the  side  of  the  wheel  with  the 
dividers  as  described  on  page  37,  Chapter  II. 

Use  an  ice  pick  to  punch  a  tiny  hole  exactly  in 
the  center  of  the  wheel.  If  ^-inch  galvanized  wire 
is  to  be  used  for  an  axle,  push  the  ice  pick  further 
into  the  hole,  turning  the  pick  while  doing  so,  until 
the  hole  is  just  large  enough  to  fit  the  axle  wire. 
Repeat  the  process  on  the  other  side  of  the  wheel 
until  the  hole  there  is  enlarged  to  fit  the  axle  wire, 

Fig.  47- 

If  the  axle  holes  are  not  exactly  in  the  center  of 
the  wheel,  it  will  not  run  true.  A  little  care  used  in 


MAKING  A  TOY  AUTO  TRUCK         113 

punching  the  holes  will  cause  it  to  run  true  enough 
for  any  toy. 

If  you  possess  a  hand  drill  and  a  drill  the  same 


FIG.  47. 

size  of  the  wire  used  for  an  axle,  you  may  drill  the 
hole  in  the  center  of  the  wheel  instead  of  punching 
it  through.  To  do  this,  first  find  the  center  of  the 
wheel  and  then  make  a  slight  dent  exactly  in  the 


ii4  MAKING  TIN  CAN  TOYS 

center  of  the  wheel  with  the  ice  pick  or  a  small  center 
punch.  The  point  of  the  drill  is  placed  in  this  dent 
when  starting  to  drill  the  hole.  I  find  it  better  to 
use  a  yi6-inch  drill  and  drill  a  hole  through  the 
center  of  the  wheel  with  this  first,  then  use  a  drill 
the  same  size  as  the  axle  wire  and  enlarge  the 
V16-inch  hole  with  this. 

In  any  case,  the  wheel  should  be  soldered  to- 
gether before  the  holes  are  put  through  the  centers. 
Finish  up  the  four  wheels  and  lay  them  aside  until 
the  truck  is  nearly  completed,  as  the  wheels  are  the 
last  things  to  be  added. 

Galvanized  wire  of  %  or  Vie  inch  diameter  is 
usually  used  for  axles.  This  wire  is  usually  carried 
in  stock  at  hardware  stores.  It  is  usually  furnished 
in  coiled  form  and  must  be  straightened  out  before 
being  used.  A  piece  is  cut  from  the  coil  of  wire 
long  enough  to  make  the  two  axles.  It  should 
then  be  placed  on  a  flat  metal  surface  and 
hammered  straight. 

Making  Wheels  from  Rolled-Rim  Cans. — A  very 
strong  wheel  may  be  used  from  rolled-rim  cans. 
This  process  is  slightly  different  from  that  used 
with  the  soldered  flange  cans.  Wheels  from  2,y2  to  6 
inches  in  diameter  may  be  made  by  this  second 
method,  but  unless  this  type  of  wheel  is  made  from 
very  small  cans  it  is  not  so  suitable  for  the  truck  as 
the  wheels  made  from  small  evaporated  milk  cans. 


MAKING  A  TOY  AUTO  TRUCK 


Eight  rolled-rim  cans  will  have  to  be  used  to 
make  four  wheels  unless  the  cans  are  opened  at  the 
side  when  first  emptied.  Both  types  of  wheels 
should  be  made  so  as  to  become  familiar  with  the 
making  of  each  type,  as  both  types  are  used  in 
making  the  models  shown  in  this  book. 

This  second  type  of  wheel  is  rather  easier  to 
make  than  the  first,  but 
you  should  know  how  to 
make  either  type,  as  then 
many  different  sizes  of 
wheels  may  be  made  with 
whatever  cans  you  may 
have.  The  rolled  rim  is 
more  often  employed  in 
making  large  cans  than  in 
the  smaller  ones. 

To  make  wheels  suit- 
able for  a  truck  of  the 
size  described  here,  small 
soup  cans  may  be  used; 

these  are  usually  rolled- 

'  FIG.  48. 

rim  cans. 

To  make  a  wheel  from  two  rolled-rim  cans,  a 
line  should  be  scribed  about  the  base  of  the  can,  ^ 
inch  from  the  bottom,  and  the  can  cut  down  to  this 
line,  see  Fig.  48,  A.  Scribe  a  line  Y^  inch  from  the 
base  of  the  second  can  and  cut  this  can  down  to  this 
line.  Make  a  cut  every  *4  inch  around  the  tin  at  the 


n6. 


MAKING  TIN  CAN  TOYS 


side  of  this  second  can,  each  cut  to  reach  the  base  or 
rim  of  the  can,  see  Fig.  49,  B. 

Place  this  part  of  the  wheel  on  the  wooden  block 
and  use  the  riveting  hammer  (C)  to  drive  the  cut 
side  of  the  can  inward  as  shown  in  Fig.  49,  .B. 

Now  take  up  the  can  cut  down  to  ^  inch  and 


^ 
X 

s 

A         B 

FIG.  50. 

place  it  over  a  pipe  anvil  which  is  held  in  the  vise. 
Use  a  metal  hammer  and  hammer  around  the  edge 
of  this  can  two  or  three  times  to  enlarge  it.  Turn 
the  can  around  the  anvil  when  hammering  it.  Then 
try  to  push  it  down  over  the  second  or  turned  part 
of  the  second  can  as  shown  in  Fig.  49,  D.  If  it  does 
not  fit,  continue  the  hammering  until  the  two  parts 
of  the  wheel  fit  together  and  then  solder  them  in 
place  and  the  wheel  is  completed,  except  for  the 


PLATE  IX 


Steam  roller  made  by  a  boy  of  ten  years  of  age  in  a  grade  school 
under  the  direction  of  Mr.  Arthur  Campbell 


MAKING  A  TOY  AUTO  TRUCK         117 

axle  holes,  which  may  be  put  in  exactly  the  same 
way  as  they  are  put  in  the  first  type  of  wheel. 

The  large  roller  of  the  toy  steam  roller  shown 
in  Plate  IX  is  made  of  rolled-rim  cans  as  are  the 
large  wheels  of  fhe  toy  traction  engine  shown  in 
Plate  XVIII. 

Be  sure  to  try  both  methods  until  you  under- 
stand them  thoroughly,  as  a  great  deal  depends  on 
the  ability  to  make  good  wheels  for  a  toy  model. 

Two  Types  of  Wheels  Made  from  Can  Lids. — 
A  third  method  of  making  wheels  is  to  use  two  can 
lids  soldered  together,  but  as  it  takes  quite  a  while 
to  collect  eight  can  lids  of  the  same  diameter,  it  is 
better  to  employ  this  method  only  occasionally,  as 
for  flanged  car  wheels  made  to  run  on  a  track,  etc. 
A  glance  at  Fig.  50,  A,  should  be  enough  to  show 
how  these  wheels  are  made  up  of  two  pushed-in  can 
lids  soldered  together  at  their  largest  diameter. 

The  first  two  methods  described  result  in  wheels 
that  look  like  the  heavy  truck  wheels  employed  on 
actual  trucks. 

Another  type  of  wheel  may  be  built  of  the 
flanged  pushed-in  lids.  In  this  type  the  lids  are 
soldered  together  in  just  the  opposite  way  as  that 
described  in  the  third  method,  so  that  the  flanges 
are  on  the  outside  of  the  wheels.  These  wheels  are 
generally  used  for  belt  wheels  on  the  mechanical 
models,  Fig.  50,  B. 


CHAPTER  XI 
MAKING  A  TOY  AUTO  TRUCK  (Continued} 

FORMING  THE  CHASSIS USING  THE  WOODEN   ROOF- 
ING    FOLDER FOLDING USING     THE    VISE     FOR 

SHORT    FOLDING USING    THE    HATCHET    STAKE 

FOR  FOLDING 

Forming  the  Chassis. — The  chassis  or  frame  of 
the  truck  may  be  made  from  a  single  piece  of  tin 
cut  from  a  gallon  fruit  can.  All  four  edges  are 
turned  down  so  as  to  form  a  shallow  tray  or  box. 

Cut  a  piece  of  tin  12^/4  by  4^4  inches.  Use  the 
dividers  to  mark  off  a  line  ^  of  an  inch  inside  all 
four  sides,  but  be  sure  that  the  tin  is  cut  perfectly 
square  before  you  do  this  inside  marking.  Cut  in 
to  the  lines  A  A  on  all  four  of  the  darkened  lines 
as  shown  in  Fig.  51,  A. 

Place  the  tin  on  a  sharp-edged  block  and  fold 
down  the  long  sides  I  and  2  first.  Remember  not 
to  try  to  fold  these  long  sides  or  folds  down  all  at 
once,  but  rather  go  over  them  two  or  three  times 
lightly  with  the  mallet  as  they  are  being  turned 
down  at  a  right  angle.  Take  care  that  the  tin  folds 
over  exactly  at  the  line. 

When  the  sides  I  and  2  are  folded  down  at  right 
angles,  fold  down  the  ends  3  and  4.  This  will  leave 

118 


MAKING  A  TOY  AUTO  TRUCK          119 

four  small  ends  of  the  two  long  sides  projecting 

beyond  the  ends  as  shown  in  Fig.  51,  B.  Fold  these 

in  over  the  ends  of  the  chassis  with  a  mallet.    Hold 

A  A 


# 


B 


•— •  H 

iv 


FIG.  51. 

them  in  place  with  a  pair  of  flat-nosed  pliers  and 
solder  them  to  the  ends  where  they  touch,  so  that 
the  chassis  appears  as  shown  in  Fig.  51,  C. 


120  MAKING  TIN  CAN  TOYS 

Using  the  Wooden  Roofing  Folder.— Folds  of 
all  kinds  may  be  very  easily  and  quickly  made  by 
using  the  wooden  roofing  folder,  Plate  XII.  The 
work  turned  out  by  this  simple  machine  is  very 
straight  and  true,  particularly  long  folds  or  angles 
of  tin.  The  gauge  may  be  set  at  any  desired  width 
up  to  Vie  of  an  inch  and  any  number  of  folds  of  the 
desired  width  can  be  quickly  and  accurately  produced 
by  inserting  the  tin  between  the  holding  bars  and 
closing  up  the  folder. 


FIG.  52. 

The  holding  bars  are  shown  at  A  A,  Fig.  52. 
The  adjustable  gauge  at  B,  C  C  are  the  wooden  sup- 
ports which  are  hinged  together.  D  is  the  iron 
handle,  E  the  adjusting  screw,  F  is  the  piece  of  tin 
to  be  folded. 

The  folder  is  shown  in  Fig.  53.  Both  of  these 
views  are  sectional  to  show  the  working  of  the 
folder.  The  actual  construction  may  be  easily  under- 
stood by  looking  at  the  actual  folder.  The  gauge  B, 
Fig.  52,  is  adjusted  by  first  loosening  up  the  five 
screws  E  with  a  screw  driver  and  then  pulling  in  or 
pushing  out  the  gauge  B  to  the  desired  width  of  the 


PLATE  X 


Dumping  truck  with  body  hoisted  by  winch  under  seat,  made 
bv  Miss  M.  C.  Newman 


Unpainted  chassis  of  toy  auto  truck  made  by  author 


Dumping  truck  made  by  Miss  M.  C.  Newman 


PLATE  XI 


Chassis  of  toy  auto  truck  showing  springs 


Dumping  truck  made  by  a  student  of  Teacheis  College 


MAKING  A  TOY  AUTO  TRUCK          121 

fold  to  be  made.  The  screws  E  are  then  tightened 
up  with  the  screw  driver  and  the  tin  inserted  be- 
tween the  pieces  A  A.  The  folder  is  then  closed  by 
grasping  the  handle  D  and  closing  the  two  sides  of 
the  folder  together.  When  the  folder  is  opened,  the 
tin  will  be  found  to  be  folded  over. 

The  fold  may  then  be  completed  with  the  mallet 
if  it  is  desired  to  close  it  up  against  the  tin.  To  form 
a  right  angle  the  folder  is 
not  completely  closed.  A 
little  experimenting  with 
a  piece  of  scrap  tin  will 
show  how  far  to  close  the 
folder  in  order  to  obtain  a 
given  angle. 

Gare  should  be  taken 
to  set  the  gauge  B  parallel 
with  the  holding  bar  A. 

The  folder  is  ordinarily  set  at  ^  mcn-  This  is  the 
width  of  most  of  the  folds  made  in  the  tin.  This 
simple  machine  will  save  much  time  in  tin  working 
and  one  should  be  purchased  if  possible.  It  is  prac- 
tically the  only  way  a  long  fold  in  a  narrow  strip  of 
tin  may  be  made  accurately. 

The  folder  may  be  used  to  fold  down  the  two 
long  sides  of  the  chassis,  the  ends  may  then  be  turned 
down  over  the  edge  of  a  block  as  the  ends  of  the 
long  folds  will  prevent  placing  the  short  folds  in  the 
folder.  Narrow  strips  of  tin  may  be  folded  over 


122  MAKING  TIN  CAN  TOYS 

and  hammered  together  with  the  mallet.  These 
strips  of  tin  may  be  slipped  over  the  sharp  edges  at 
the  bottom  of  each  side  of  the  chassis,  thus  making 
the  edges  very  strong  and  removing  the  danger  of 
cutting  the  fingers.  Fig.  51,  D,  shows  an  enlarged 
view  of  a  corner  of  the  chassis  with  the  folded  tin 
strips  slipped  over  the  lower  edges. 

These  narrow  folded  strips  are  very  easily  made 
on  the  folding  machine.  Cut  two  strips  of  tin  y2  by 
12  inches  and  set  the  folder  to  fold  ^4  inch,  place 
the  tin  in  the  folder  and  fold  it  over.  Remove  it 
from  the  folder  and  hammer  it  nearly  together  with 
the  mallet  and  then  place  a  separate  strip  of  tin  in 
the  folded  part  and  continue  hammering  with  the 
mallet  until  the  folded  tin  is  closed  in  on  the  inside 
or  inserted  strip  of  tin. 

The  folded  strip  is  then  ready  to  slip  over  the 
edge  of  the  side  of  the  chassis  and  to  be  soldered  to 
it  in  several  places;  that  is,  the  folded  strip  need 
not  be  soldered  to  the  chassis  continuously,  but  may 
be  held  in  place  by  soldering  about  every  four  inches. 

The  two  short  strips  of  tin  y2  by  4  inches  should 
then  be  cut,  folded  and  soldered  in  place  at  the  short 
ends  of  the  chassis.  (No  sharp  edge  should  be  left 
about  a  tin  can  toy  when  it  may  be  avoided  by 
folding  or  covering.) 

A  long  narrow  strip  of  tin  is  rather  difficult  to 
fold  without  the  use  of  a  folder,  but  it  may  be  done 
with  the  mallet  and  block  as  follows : 


MAKING  A  TOY  AUTO  TRUCK         123 

Folding. — If  a  strip  of  tin  y*  by  12  inches  is  to 
be  folded  over,  it  is  better  to  cut  a  strip  of  tin  i% 
by  12  inches.  Mark  off  54  mch  all  along  one  long 
edge  and  fold  it  down  over  a  block  as  in  making  the 
handle  of  the  cooky  cutter,  for  you  will  then  have 
more  metal  to  hold  to  while  folding.  When  the 
piece  is  completely  folded  down  to  a  right  angle, 
turn  it  over  on  the  block  and  close  the  tin  down  with 
a  mallet,  inserting  a  piece  of  tin  before  closing  the 
tin  together.  Then  the  surplus  tin  may  be  cut  away 
and  you  have  a  narrow  folded  strip.  As  in  all  fold- 
ing by  hand  using  the  mallet  and  the  block,  the  tin 
should  be  gradually  folded  into  place. 

Using  the  Vise  for  Short  Folding. — -The  vise  may 
be  used  to  fold  short  pieces  of  tin  very  accurately. 
The  folding  line  is  first  marked  on  the  tin ;  the  tin  is 
then  placed  and  held  in  the  vise  jaws  so  that  the 
line  is  parallel  with  and  exactly  at  the  top  of  the 
jaws.  The  mallet  is  then  used  to  hammer  the  tin 
over  to  the  required  angle,  see  Fig.  54.  A  very 
sharp  accurate  fold  should  result. 

Using  the  Hatchet  Stake  for  Folding.— A  spe- 
cial stake  has  been  devised  for  folding  tin.  This  is 
called  the  hatchet  stake  and  is  listed  in  the  supple- 
mentary tool  list.  It  is  made  in  the  shape  of  the 
letter  T.  The  horizontal  part  is  made  like  a  long 
narrow-bladed  hatchet,  and  the  vertical  shank 
attached  to  it  may  be  held  in  the  vise  or  set  in  a 
hole  in  the  bench,  see  Fig.  55. 


124 


MAKING  TIN  CAN  TOYS 


The  top  edge  of  this  tool  is  perfectly  straight 
and  fairly  sharp.  One  side  of  the  blade  runs 
straight  down  from  the  edge  and  the  other  side 
slopes  down  at  an  angle  considerably  less  than  a 
right  angle.  The  top  edge  of  the  hatchet  stake  is 
used  to  fold  the  tin  over  and  it  is  specially  formed 
to  permit  the  folding  of  more  than  a  right  angle. 


FIG.  54. 


FIG.  55. 


To  use  the  hatchet  stake,  a  folding  line  is  first 
marked  on  the  tin.  This  line  is  kept  directly  over 
and  parallel  with  the  top  or  edge  of  the  stake  and 
the  mallet  is  used  to  fold  the  tin,  the  mallet  blows 
being  directed  at  the  top  of  the  stake  as  shown 
in  Fig.  56. 

The  hatchet  stake  is  a  very  handy  tool  about 
the  shop,  even  if  a  folder  is  included  in  the  equip- 


MAKING  A  TOY  AUTO  TRUCK 


125 


ment,  as  there  are  some  jobs  that  will  not  permit 
the  use  of  the  folder  to  complete  them. 

Strips  of  tin  as  long  as  the  blade  of  the  hatchet 
stake  may  be  accurately  folded  over  as  follows : 

A  strip  of  maple  i  inch  thick  and  2.  inches  wide 
and  as  long  as  the  blade  of  the  stake  may  be  clamped 
against  the  flat  side  of  the  blade  of  the  hatchet  stake 


*-HATtHET- 
STAK& 


FIG.  56. 


FIG.  57. 


with  the  tin  to  be  folded  held  tightly  between  the 
maple  strip  and  the  blade.  The  mallet  is  then  used 
to  fold  the  tin  over  toward  the  sloping  side  of  the 
blade,  Fig.  57.  Sometimes  two  strips  of  maple 
may  be  clamped  to  a  piece  of  tin  to  hold  it  accu- 
rately while  being  folded,  but  this  method  is 
rather  cumbersome. 

The  different  methods  of  folding  have  been  de- 


i26  MAKING  TIN  CAN  TOYS 

scribed  at  length  so  that  the  reader  may  become 
familiar  with  all  of  them,  but  a  great  deal  of  folding 
may  be  done  over  a  sharp-edged  maple  block,  if  you 
have  nothing  else  with  which  to  work. 

Professional  tinners  use  a  very  convenient  fold- 
ing machine  made  of  metal,  but  these  are  very  costly 
and  need  not  be  described  here. 


CHAPTER  XII 

MAKING  A  TOY  AUTO  TRUCK  (Continued} 

MAKING    THE    HOOD   AND    RADIATOR CUTTING    THE 

VENTS SOLDERING  ON  THE  FILLER  CAP 

THE  hood  and  radiator  may  be  made  from  a 
cocoa  tin,  a  small  olive  oil  or  cooking  oil  can,  pro- 
vided that  the  can  is  shaped  as  shown  in  Fig.  58, 
which  shows  the  bottom  and  sides  of  a  cocoa  tin. 

The  can  is  first  cut  down  to  the  dotted  line  A. 
Then  the  can  is  cut  at  the  dotted  line  B.  Then  some 
holes  are  punched  in  regular  rows  in  the  bottom  of 
the  can  to  produce  the  radiator.  Slits  are  cut  in 
the  side  of  the  can  to  form  vents  and  a  cap  from  a 
tooth-paste  or  paint  tube  is  soldered  on  near  the 
rolled  rim  for  a  filler  cap  and  the  hood  is  complete 
as  shown  in  Fig.  59. 

The  rectangular  can  selected  for  the  hood  is 
marked  and  cut  to  shape  as  follows:  Open  the 
dividers  to  2^  inches  and  mark  the  line  A  around 
the  can,  Fig.  58.  Before  cutting  the  can  down  to 
this  line  set  the  dividers  to  2*4  inches  and  mark  the 
line  B  horizontally  around  the  can.  To  do  this,  rest 
the  can  flat  on  the  bench  and  on  the  side  that  is  to 
form  the  top  of  the  hood.  Rest  one  point  of  the 
dividers  on  the  bench  and  let  the  other  point  rest 

127 


128 


MAKING  TIN  CAN  TOYS 


against  the  side  of  the  can  .where  the  dotted  line  B 
is  indicated.  Still  holding  the  can  flat  on  the  bench, 
move  it  against  the  divider  point  in  such  a  manner 
that  the  line  B  is  scribed  horizontally  around  the 
sides  and  bottom  of  the  can. 

Cut  the  can  down  to  the  line  A,  then  take  up  a 
small  sharp-cornered  file  and  file  completely  through 


FIG.  58. 


FIG.  59. 


the  rolled  rim  at  the  corners  marked  C  and  C  on  the 
line  B.  Use  the  edge  of  the  file  and  make  .a  tri- 
angular cut.  This  filing  will  greatly  simplify  cut- 
ting the  rolled  rim  which  is  hard  to  cut  through 
with  the  shears. 

Then  cut  into  the  rim  on  the  line  B,  cutting 
from  the  line  A.  Bend  the  two  halves  of  the  can 
open  far  enough  to  admit  the  shears  and  cut  across 
the  bottom  of  the  can  on  the  dotted  line  B.  Cut  very 


MAKING  A  TOY  AUTO  TRUCK         129 

carefully  so  that  the  part  of  the  can  at  the  line  B, 
forming  the  bottom  of  the  hood,  will  rest  flat  on  the 
bench  all  around.  If  it  rests  flat  on  the  bench,  it 
will  rest  flat  on  the  tin  frame  of  the  truck  where  it 
is  to  be  soldered  in  place. 

The  next  thing  to  do  is  to  punch  the  holes  to 
form  the  radiator.  The  front  of  the  hood  is  rested 
on  a  block  of  wood  and  a  very  sharp  punch  should 
be  used  for  punching  the  holes,  such  as  an  ice  pick 
or  a  very  sharp-pointed  nail. 

First  mark  off  the  radiator  in  regular  squares, 
using  the  depressed  line  usually  found  in  the  bottom 
of  this  type  of  can  as  a  boundary  line  for  the  squares. 
Divide  up  the  space  into  squares  as  indicated  in  Fig. 
60,  A,  leaving  a  clear  border  of  tin  all  around  the 
space  to  be  punched. 

Find  a  block  of  wood  that  will  fit  inside  the 
hood  as  shown  in  Fig.  60,  C,  and  place  one  end  of 
this  in  the  vise.  See  that  the  end  is  sawn  off  square 
before  placing  the  hood  over  it  in  the  position  shown. 

Take  up  the  punch  and  carefully  punch  the  holes 
as  they  are  marked  by  the  dots  in  Fig.  60,  A,  at  each 
line  intersection.  Then  punch  a  hole  in  the  center 
of  each  square  and  then  a  hole  should  be  punched 
between  every  other  hole  on  all  the  lines  forming  the 
squares,  see  Fig.  60,  B. 

Care  should  be  taken  to  punch  all  the  holes  of 
the  same  size  and  to  get  them   in   regular  rows. 
This  makes  a  neat  and  workman-like  job. 
9 


. 


130 


MAKING  TIN  CAN  TOYS 


Cutting  the  Vents.— -Vents  may  be  cut  in  each 
side  of  the  hood  with  a  sharp  chisel.     An  old  wood 


FIG.  60. 


or  carpenter's  chisel  about  an  inch  wide  will  do  very 
well  or  a  sharp  cold  chisel  may  be  used. 

Use  the  same  wooden  block  that  you  used  to 


MAKING  A  TOY  AUTO  TRUCK         131 

punch  out  the  radiator  on  and  place  it  horizontally 
in  the  vise  jaws  so  that  enough  of  it  projects  beyond 
them  to  support  the  hood  as  shown  in  Fig.  61. 


FIG.  61. 

Use  the  dividers  to  mark  off  four  or  five  vents 
and  see  to  it  that  they  are  laid  out  square  with  the 
hood.  Try  to  find  a  chisel  that  is  as  wide  as  the 
vent  is  long,  a  i-inch  cutting  edge  is  about  right. 
Place  the  edge  of  the  chisel  squarely  on  the  mark 


132  MAKING  TIN  CAN  TOYS 

and  hammer  it  through  the  tin  with  several  blows 
from  the  mallet.  Make  these  cuts  very  straight  and 
parallel  with  each  other.  Cut  the  vents  in  both  sides 
of  the  hood  and  the  hood  is  then  ready  to  have  the 
filler  cap  soldered  on. 

Soldering  on  the  Filler  Cap. — Use  a  large  sized 
screw  cap  of  a  tooth-paste  tube  or  the  cap  from  a 
paste  or  paint  tube  for  the  filler  cap.  Some  of  these 
caps  are  octagonal  in  shape  and  have  various  initials 
stamped  on  the  top  and  these  look  very  much  like  the 
filler  caps  used  on  the  radiators  of  real  automobiles. 

Clean  away  all  paste  or  paint  from  the  inside 
of  the  cap  and  then  scrape  the  lower  edge  bright  and 
clean.  These  caps  are  usually  made  of  a  combina- 
tion of  metals  that  is  very  much  like  the  solder  used 
for  soldering  tin  and  they  will  melt  very  easily  if 
brought  in  contact  with  a  soldering  copper,  so  that 
the  cap  must  be  soldered  to  the  hood  by  an  indirect 
heating  method. 

Soldering  paste  is  first  applied  to  the  top  of  the 
hood  where  the  cap  is  to  be  soldered  and  then  a  small 
puddle  of  solder  is  applied  to  the  tin  at  this  place 
with  a  hot  soldering  copper.  The  solder  is  allowed 
to  cool  and  then  the  cap  is  placed  in  position  on  the 
solder  after  applying  a  bit  of  soldering  paste  to 
its  lower  edge. 

Heat  the  soldering  copper  very  hot  and  apply 
it  inside  the  hood  so  that  as  much  of  the  point  as 


MAKING  A  TOY  AUTO  TRUCK          133 

possible  rests  directly  under  the  puddle  of  solder  on 
which  the  cap  rests,  Fig.  62. 

Hold  it  in  this  position  until  the  puddle  of  solder 
melts  and  a  bright  line  of  solder  is  seen  to  run  around 
the  base  of  the  cap  where  it  rests  on  the  hood.  Re- 
move the  copper  just  as  soon  as  the  solder  melts  and 
runs  around  the  cap  and  let  the  solder  harden  before 


FIG.  62. 

moving  the  hood  about.  If  the  cap  moves  out  of 
place  while  the  solder  is  molten,  owing  to  the  bub- 
bling of  the  soldering  paste,  it  may  immediately  be 
pushed  back  into  place  with  a  matchstick  before  the 
solder  hardens. 

The  hood  will  become  very  hot  before  the  solder 
melts  under  the  cap,  but  it  may  be  easily  held  to 
the  bench  by  wrapping  a  rag  around  it  to  protect 
the  hand. 


i34  MAKING  TIN  CAN  TOYS 

A  thick  square  bar  of  iron  may  be  heated  to  a 
dull  red  at  the  end  and  used  in  place  of  the  soldering 
copper  for  soldering  on  the  cap.  Either  the  copper 
or  the  bar  of  iron  must  be  very  hot.  They  must  be 
heated  to  a  much  greater  temperature  than  ordi- 
narily used  for  soldering. 

When  the  filler  cap  is  soldered  in  place  the  hood 
is  ready  to  be  soldered  to  the  frame,  but  the  dash- 
board and  seat  should  be  made  before  this  is  done. 


CHAPTER  XIII 
MAKING  A  TOY  AUTO  TRUCK  (Continued) 

THE     DASH-BOARD THE      SEAT ASSEMBLING      THE 

TRUCK SPRINGS SOLDERING    THE    WHEELS    ON 

THE  AXLES STRIP  WASHERS 

The  Dash-Board.— The  dash-board  is  the  next 
thing  to  be  made,  and  then  the  seat.  The  hood,  dash- 
board and  seat  are  then  soldered  to  the  frame.  Four 
imitation  springs  are  then  made  and  soldered  to 
the  bottom  of  the  frame ;  holes  are  punched  in  these 
for  axles ;  the  wheels  and  axles  are  put  in  place,  and 
the  chassis  of  the  truck  is  finished. 

The  dash-board  may  be  formed  in  two  ways ;  one 
way  is  to  use  part  of  a  rolled-rim  can,  the  rolled 
rim  forming  the  top,  and  the  other  way  is  to  fold 
over  three  edges  of  a  piece  of  tin  and  form  this  into 
a  dash-board.  The  first  method  looks  better,  but 
the  last  method  is  easier. 

Select  a  large  rolled-rim  can,  measure  off  5^ 
inches  along  the  rolled  rim  and  from  each  end  of 
this  measurement,  run  a  line  2%  inches  down  the 
side  of  the  can.  Then  mark  a  line  around  the  can 
2^2  inches  down  from  the  rolled  rim  and  cut  the 
can  down  to  this  line  exactly  as  you  would  cut  a  can 
down  to  any  line,  see  Fig.  63. 

135 


136 


MAKING  TIN  CAN  TOYS 


Then  cut  out  the  piece  2^2  by  5^  inches  includ- 
ing the  rim.  Use  the  flat-nosed  pliers  and  break 
away  the  tin  next  the  rim  where  the  can  was  first 
opened  with  the  can  opener,  just  as  you  did  when 
making  a  pail.  Hammer  down  any  tin  left  next 


FIG.  63. 

the  rim  and  then  place  the  piece  of  tin  on  the  bench 
or  flat  anvil  and  flatten  it  down,  rolled  rim  and  all. 
Use  the  dividers  to  mark  off  %  inch  along  the 
two  short  ends  of  the  piece  at  right  angles  to  the 
rim,  then  use  a  file  to  cut  off  l/4  inch  at  each  end  of 
the  rolled  rim.  Cut  in  on  each  of  the  darkened 
lines  A  A  to  the  lines  B  just  under  the  rolled  rim, 


MAKING  A  TOY  AUTO  TRUCK         137 


Fig.  64.  Then  fold  the  metal  in  between  the  lines 
B  and  C  to  give  a  rounded  edge  to  the  sides  of  the 
dash-board,  as  shown  in  Fig.  65. 

Place  a  piece  of  round  bar  iron  or  a  pipe  about  I 
inch  in  diameter  in  the  vise  and  round  over  each  end 

FIG.  64. 


f 

•         DfiSH  BOARD 

ROUED-RIM  CAM 
i 

i 

UC                                           C4 

IP 

k 

1  1 

FOOT  DOAf\D 
FROM 
FIAT  Tin 

\ 

i    ^ 
i 

[j 

1 

ii 

! 

:i 


FIG.  66. 


FIG.  67. 


of  the  dash-board  so  that  the  folded  edges  are  inside 
.  shown  in  Fig.  65,  and  then  round  over  the  ends 
of  the  rolled  rim  with  a  flat  file  to  make  them  smooth 
and  the  dash-board  is  finished. 

To  make  a  dash-board  out  of  a  flat  piece  of  tin, 
cut  out  a  piece  2^4  by  5^4  inches.  Set  the  dividers 
to  l/\  inch  and  scribe  a  line  %  inch  inside  three  edges 


i38  MAKING  TIN  CAN  TOYS 

of  the  piece.  Cut  off  two  corners  at  the  top  and  fold 
in  the  flaps  to  the  dotted  line  as  shown  in  Fig.  66. 
Round  over  the  ends  of  the  dash-board  as  described 
above  and  to  the  same  dimensions. 

The  Seat. — A  very  simple  seat  may  be  made  for 
the  truck  out  of  three  pieces  of  tin.  Use  a  piece  of 
tin  with  the  rolled  rim  at  the  top  as  in  making  the 
dash-board.  Cut  a  piece  of  tin  3^4  by  3^2  inches, 
fold  in  two  of  the  sides  exactly  as  you  did  for  the 
dash-board  and  cut  off  the  rolled  rim  until  it  is  even 
with  the  sides  after  turning  and  round  over  the 
ends  of  the  rolled  rim  with  a  file. 

Use  the  dividers  to  two  lines  parallel  with  the 
rolled  rim,  one  line  I  inch  in  and  the  other  2^  inches 
as  shown  in  Fig.  67  by  the  dotted  lines.  Bend  the 
piece  over  a  block  as  shown  until  it  is  shaped  like 
the  seat  shown  in  Fig.  68. 

Cut  two  pieces  of  tin  1^5  by  1%  inches.  Mark 
a  line  ^4  inch  in  from  the  ends  of  one  of  the  short 
sides  of  each  piece  and  bend  this  part  at  right  angles, 
Fig.  68,  A.  These  two  pieces  are  to  be  slipped  under 
each  end  of  the  seat  and  soldered  to  it  and  then 
trimmed  off  with  the  shears  until  the  whole  bottom 
edge  of  the  seat  rests  flat  on  the  frame  where  it  is 
to  be  soldered. 

The  two  side  pieces  or  supports  are  made  too 
long  purposely  so  that  they  may  be  trimmed  off 
after  they  are  soldered  to  the  seat.  The  hood,  dash- 
board and  seat  should  be  soldered  in  place. 


MAKING  A  TOY  AUTO  TRUCK 


139 


Assembling  the  Truck.— Set  the  dividers  to  Y^ 
inch  and  scribe  a  line  J4  inch  in  from  the  front  end 
of  the  frame.  Place  the  front  of  the  hood  parallel 
with  this  line  and  see  that  the  hood  is  set  exactly 
in  the  middle  of  the  frame;  that  it  is  set  at  the  same 
distance  from  the  side  of  the  hood  to  the  side  of  the 
frame  on  each  side.  Solder  the  hood  in  place. 


FIG.  68. 


FIG.  69. 


When  soldering  the  hood  to  the  frame,  it  is 
better  to  rest  the  frame  on  a  block  of  wood  so  that 
the  block  supports  the  frame  that  is  directly  under 
the  hood  when  soldering  the  hood  to  the  frame. 

The  block  will  prevent  the  tin  from  bulging 
down  from  the  heat  of  the  copper  and  from  the  pres- 
sure of  the  hand  when  holding  the  hood  in  place 
to  solder  it. 


140  MAKING  TIN  CAN  TOYS 

Set  the  dash-board  in  place  back  of  the  hood  and 
see  that  it  fits  snugly  in  place  against  the  hood  and 
also  the  frame  and  then  solder  it  in  place.  If  every 
joint  is  made  to  fit  snugly  before  attempting  to 
solder  it,  no  trouble  should  be  experienced,  but  some- 
times a  crack  will  develop  owing  to  the  expansion  of 
the  tin  under  heat  of  the  soldering  copper.  These 
cracks  may  be  filled  in  with  solder  by  feeding  a  strip 
of  solder  against  the  point  of  the  hot  copper  when 
soldering.  This  causes  a  lot  of  solder  to  run  into 
the  crack  and  fill  it. 

Solder  the  seat  in  position  so  that  the  front  of  the 
seat  is  about  I  inch  from  the  ends  of  the  dash-board. 

Springs. — Holes  may  be  punched  through  the 
sides  of  the  frame  and  the  axles  run  through  them 
if  a  very  simple  truck  is  to  be  made,  but  imitation 
springs  may  be  easily  made  from  part  of  the  sides 
and  bottom  of  a  can.  These  springs  raise  the  frame 
of  the  truck  above  the  axles  and  give  it  a  more 
realistic  appearance. 

Cut  two  three-inch  cans  down  to  ^  inch  in 
height.  Turn  these  cans  bottom  up  and  place  the 
ruler  across  the  rim  of  each  can  bottom  in  turn  in 
such  a  way  as  to  measure  2^  inches  from  rim  to 
rim.  Then  measure  off  another  2l/2  inches  on  each 
rim  as  shown  in  Fig.  69.  File  through  the  rims  at 
A  A  and  then  cut  straight  down  the  sides  of  the  can 
at  A  A  A  which  should  give  you  three  springs  from 
each  can. 


MAKING  A  TOY  AUTO  TRUCK         141 

Solder  two  springs  to  the  bottom  and  side  of  the 
frame  y2  inch  from  the  front  end  and  the  two 
rear  springs  should  be  soldered  i  inch  in  from  the 
back  end. 

Use  an  ice  pick  to  punch  a  hole  in  each  spring  to 
receive  the  axle  and  be  sure  that  these  holes  are  all 
the  same  distance  from  the  top  of  the  frame  (use 
the  dividers  to  determine  this),  and  also  that  each 
hole  is  square  across  from  the  opposite  axle  hole 
(use  the  try  square  to  determine  this). 

The  axle  holes  should  be  punched  through  with 
an  ice  pick  and  be  made  somewhat  larger  than  the 
axle  wire  so  that  the  axle  wire  fits  very  loosely  in 
the  hole,  but  be  sure  to  have  all  the  holes  the  same  size. 

Soldering  the  Wheels  on  the  Axles. — The  wire 
axles  should  be  cut  long  enough  to  go  entirely 
through  each  wheel  and  across  the  frame  and  to 
allow  a  distance  of  ^4  mcn  between  the  frame  of 
the  truck  and  each  wheel.  The  length  of  the  axles 
may  be  easily  determined  by  placing  the  frame  of 
the  truck  flat  on  the  bench  and  placing  the  two 
wheels  in  position,  each  wheel  to  stand  out  ^  mch 
from  the  side  of  the  truck.  Measure  the  distance 
with  a  ruler  from  the  outer  edge  of  one  wheel  to 
the  outer  edge  of  the  other  and  add  ^  inch  to  this 
distance,  see  Fig.  70.  Cut  the  two  wire  axles  to 
this  measurement  and  see  that  they  are  perfectly 
straight  after  cutting. 


142 


MAKING  TIN  CAN  TOYS 


Place  one  end  of  an  axle  through  a  wheel  until 
the  end  of  it  projects  beyond  the  outside  of  the 
wheel  about  1/i6  of  an  inch.  Put  some  soldering 
paste  on  the  end  of  the  axle  and  on  the  wheel  next 
to  the  axle  and  use  a  well-heated  soldering  copper 
to  solder  the  wheel  to  the  axle. 

To  do  this,  place  the  wheel  flat  on  the  edge  of 
the  bench  so  that  the  axle  hole  is  just  over  the  edge 


AXLE* 


FIG.  71. 


and  so  that  the  axle  may  be  held  against  the  side 
of  the  bench.  Hold  the  wheel  and  axle  firmly  in 
this  position  and  lay  the  hot  soldering  copper,  well 
charged  with  solder,  on  the  end  of  the  axle  wire 
just  above  the  wheel. 

The  end  of  the  axle  will  heat  up  very  quickly  and 
the  solder  should  run  down  and  form  a  puddle  about 
the  axle  when  that  part  of  the  wheel  next  the  axle 
is  heated  up  to  the  flowing  point  of  the  solder.  The 
end  of  the  axle  should  not  project  more  than 
Vie  inch  beyond  the  wheel  and  the  soldering  copper 


MAKING  A  TOY  AUTO  TRUCK          143 

should  be  heated  thoroughly  and  be  well  charged 
with  solder,  see  Fig.  71. 

The  wheels  need  only  be  soldered  to  the  axle  on 
one  side  of  each  wheel  if  the  holes  for  the  axle  fit 
it  very  snugly. 

Another  method  of  holding  the  wheel  in  position 
on  the  axle  while  being  soldered  is  to  drill  a  hole 
exactly  the  same  size  as  the  axle  through  a  fairly 
thick  block  of  wood  and  to  push  the  axle  through 
this  hole  until  just  enough  of  it  projects  so  that  when 
the  wheel  is  slipped  over  it  1A6  inch  of  the  axle  will 
project  beyond  the  wheel.  The  wooden  block  may 
then  be  placed  in  the  vise  and  the  wheel  slipped  over 
the  axle  and  soldered  to  it.  The  hole  drilled  through 
the  block  must  be  drilled  at  right  angles  to  the  face 
of  the  block  where  the  wheel  is  to  rest.  A  hole  may 
be  drilled  at  right  angles  to  a  wood  or  metal  sur- 
face by  using  a  bench  or  post  drill  if  you  have  one. 
Wheels  may  be  set  on  the  axle  very  accurately  by 
this  last  method. 

When  one  wheel  is  soldered  to  each  axle  lay 
them  aside  and  make  some  washers  for  the  axles 
before  the  two  remaining  wheels  are  soldered  on. 
These  washers  are  placed  on  the  axles  between  the 
frame  and  each  wheel  to  keep  the  wheels  from  run- 
ning against  the  truck. 

Strip  Washers. — These  washers  may  be  made 
from  narrow  strips  of  tin  wound  around  the  axles 
like  a  tightly  coiled  clock  spring. 


144 


MAKING  TIN  CAN  TOYS 


Cut  a  strip  of  tin  3/16  of  an  inch  wide  and  8 
inches  long.  Take  a  pair  of  round-nosed  pliers  and 
bend  one  end  over  at  a  sharp  curve  that  fits  about 
the  axle  wire.  Hold  the  curved  part  of  the  tin  to 
the  axle  with  the  flat-nosed  pliers  and  wind  the  tin 
around  the  wire  in  a  right  coil  taking  fresh  grip  on 
the  tin  strip  with  the  pliers  each  time  the  'tin  is 


FIG.  72. 


FIG.  73. 


wound  around.  Wind  the  tin  about  the  axle  four 
times  and  then  cut  the  remaining  tin  away  and  use 
it  to  make  the  other  three  washers,  see  Fig.  72. 

Slip  one  washer  on  one  of  the  axles  next  to  one 
of  the  wheels  soldered  to  it;  then  push  the  axle 
through  the  axle  holes  in  the  springs  and  then  place 
another  washer  on  it  before  placing  another  or  sec- 
ond wheel  on  the  axle. 

The  washers  are  not  soldered  in  place  but  simply 
left  loose  on  the  axle. 

The  second  wheel  is  placed  on  the  axle  and  sol- 


MAKING  A  TOY  AUTO  TRUCK         145 

dered  to  it  as  the  first  wheel  was.  The  truck  may 
be  placed  on  its  side  to  bring  the  second  wheel  into  a 
convenient  position  for  soldering.  Be  sure  that  the 
axle  turns  easily  in  the  axle  holes  and  that  there  is 
plenty  of  room  for  the  washers  between  the  sides 
of  the  frame  and  the  wheel  before  soldering  the 
second  wheel  in  place.  The  second  wheel  may  be 
soldered  on  the  second  axle  in  the  same  way  and 
then  the  chassis  is  finished  and  ready  to  run,  see 

Fig-  73- 

Various  bodies  may  be  placed  on  the  rear  of  the 
chassis  and  a  steering  wheel,  crank  and  lights  may 
be  added  when  it  is  thus  far  successfully  completed, 
and  these  will  be  described  in  the  next  chapter. 

Do  not  be  discouraged  if  you  have  managed  to 
get  more  solder  about  the  truck  than  seems  neces- 
sary, as  it  may  be  scraped  away  as  described  in 
Chapter  XXI,  page  200. 


CHAPTER  XIV 
MAKING  A  TOY  AUTO  TRUCK  (Continued) 

TRUCK  BODIES DIFFERENT  TYPES  OF  BODIES  TO  BE 

FITTED  TO  THE  SAME  CHASSIS THE  TANK  TRUCK 

THE  STREET   SPRINKLER THE   COAL  OR  SAND 

TRUCK THE  ARMY  TRUCK THE  AMBULANCE 

THE  FIRE  ENGINE 

A  PERMANENT  body  of  a.  certain  type  may  be 
soldered  directly  to  the  rear  part  of  the  chassis  or 
slides  may  be  soldered  to  the  rear  part  of  the  chassis 
and  different  types  of  truck  bodies  arranged  to  fit 
into  these  slides  so  that  one  chassis  may  be  arranged 
to  hold  a  number  of  different  bodies.  A  coal  truck 
may  be  transformed  into  a  tank  truck  and  from  a 
tank  truck  into  an  army  truck  or  an  ambulance,  etc. 

A  driver's  cab  may  be  fitted  over  the  seat  and 
any  number  of  realistic  details  added  to  the  truck, 
limited  only  by  the  ability  of  the  maker. 

The  wagon  body  is  the  simplest  to  make,  as  it 
may  be  made  from  a  square  can  with  rounded  cor- 
ners. The  two  quart  or  gallon  cans  that  have  con- 
tained olive  or  cooking  oils  make  up  into  very 
realistic  truck  bodies.  The  body  of  the  army  truck 
shown  in  the  frontispiece  was  made  from  a  two- 
146 


MAKING  A  TOY  AUTO  TRUCK 


147 


quart  can  that  had  contained  a  cooking  oil  of  a 
very  well-known  brand. 

The  object  is  to  find  a  rectangular  can  that  is 
just  about  the  width  of  the  chassis  so  that  the  tops 


CUT 


FIG.  74. 

of  the  wheels  will  clear  it  nicely.  Cut  the  can  in  two 
lengthwise,  using  the  file  to  cut  through  the  rounded 
or  rolled  rims,  see  Fig.  74,  A. 

The  can  will  probably  be  too  long  for  a  well 


i48  MAKING  TIN  CAN  TOYS 

proportioned  body  and  will  have  to  be  cut  down  to  a 
suitable  length,  about  7  inches.  Truck  bodies  usu- 
ally overhang  the  chassis.  Study  some  of  the  big 
trucks  seen  on  the  streets,  as  some  of  them  are 
remarkably  easy  to  reproduce. 

If  the  can  has  to  be  shortened,  use  a  can  opener 
or  the  double  cutting  shears  and  cut  around  the  can 
I  inch  from  either  end  until  one  end  of  the  can  is 
completely  cut  away,  then  cut  the  shorter  end  down 
to  y$  inch  at  the  side,  leaving  that  much  of  the  side 
of  the  can  so  that  it  may  be  slipped  inside  the  other 
or  larger  part  of  the  can  when  that  part  of  the  can 
is  cut  down  to.  a  suitable  length,  when  the  shorter 
end  is  soldered  in  place  to  form  the  end  of  the  body, 
see  Fig.  74,  B. 

When  one  end  is  cut  off  the  can,  cut  the  can 
in  two  lengthwise  so  that  the  part  to  be  used  is  about 
1^2  inches  high,  and  then  cut  off  the  shorter  end  so 
that  it  is  also  il/>  inches  high  to  correspond  to  the 
other  part  of  the  body.  Then  fit  in  the  end  of  the 
can  and  solder  it  in  place. 

Cut  four  strips  of  tin  y2  inch  in  width,  two  of 
them  as  long  as  the  two  sides  of  the  can  and  two 
as  long  as  the  ends  and  fold  these  strips  over  to 
make  a  protection  for  the  top  edges  of  the  body  just 
as  you  did  for  the  lower  edges  of  the  chassis.  Solder 
these  strips  in  place  and  the  body  is  finished  and 
ready  to  be  soldered  to  the  truck,  see  Fig.  74,  C. 


MAKING  A  TOY  AUTO  TRUCK          149 

Different  Types  of  Bodies  to  be  Fitted  to  the 

Same  Chassis. — The  body  described  above  may  be 
soldered  directly  to  the  chassis  of  the  truck  or  to  a 
strip  of  tin  and  so  arranged  as  to  slide  onto  the 
chassis  between  two  slides  made  of  folded  tin.  These 
slides  are  soldered  directly  to  the  chassis  in  the  rear 
of  the  seat  and  the  different  types  of  bodies  arranged 
to  fit  between  them,  thus  using  the  same  chassis 
for  as  many  different  types  of  bodies  as  one  cares 
to  make  for  it. 

The  fixed  slides  should  be  made  of  two  J^-inch 
strips  of  tin  as  long  as  the  back  or  floor  of  the 
chassis,  about  6  inches.  These  strips  are  folded 
over  into  a  gutter  shape  as  are  the  strips  used  to 
protect  the  bottom  edge  of  the  truck  frame,  but  the 
folded  strips  used  for  the  slides  are  left  somewhat 
more  open,  about  J/s  inch  between  the  edges,  so 
that  when  soldered  to  the  truck  a  strip  of  tin  may 
be  easily  slipped  between  them  as  shown  in  Fig.  75. 

A  flat  strip  of  tin  should  be  cut  as  long  as  the 
two  slides  and  of  such  a  width  that  it  will  fit  easily 
into  the  slides  soldered  to  the  truck  to  receive  it. 
Care  should  be  used  when  soldering  the  slides  to  the 
truck  to  get  them  parallel  with  the  sides  of  the 
frame  and  also  parallel  with  each  other  as  shown 
in  Fig.  75. 

Several  cross-members  may  be  made  of  folded 
tin  and  may  be  soldered  to  the  flat  piece  of  tin  that 
is  to  slide  between  the  slides.  The  truck  body  should 


iSo  MAKING  TIN  CAN  TOYS 

be  soldered  to  these  cross-members  so  that  the  body 
will  clear  the  fixed  slides  when  slipped  into  place. 

These  cross-members  or  body  supports  are  usu- 
ally found  under  the  bodies  of  large  trucks  and  they 
add  a  very  realistic  touch  to  the  model.  They  should 
be  just  long  enough  to  clear  the  edges  of  the  fixed 
slides  when  attached  to  the  flat  strip  of  tin. 


FIG.  75. 

Cut  three  pieces  of  tin  1*4  inches  wide  and  long 
enough  to  make  the  cross-members,  about  3  inches 
(make  sure  of  this  measurement  for  yourself). 
Scribe  a  line  y%  inch  in  from  each  of  the  long  sides 
of  the  three  pieces  and  then  fold  down  two  sides  of 
each  piece  from  the  scribed  lines,  making  three  cross- 
members  or  supports  as  shown  in  Fig.  76.  Solder 
these  to  the  flat  strip  of  tin  that  is  to  fit  between 


MAKING  A  TOY  AUTO  TRUCK          151 

the  fixed  slides.    The  truck  body  should  be  soldered 
to  these  three  supports. 

A  round  can  with  the  lid  soldered  on  will  make  a 
very  satisfactory  tank  truck.  A  part  of  a  small  can, 
such  as  a  tooth  powder  can,  may  be  soldered  to  the 
top  of  the  tank  for  a  filler  dome  and  imitation 
faucets  made  of  wire  or  of  brass  cup  hooks  may  be 
soldered  to  the  rear  of  the  tank  and  a  small  delivery 
can  may  easily  be  made  and  hung  on  the  faucets  as 
shown  in  Plate  XIII. 


FIG.  76. 

Six  different  types  of  truck  bodies  that  may  be 
attached  to  the  chassis  are  shown  in  Fig.  77. 

The  Tank  Truck.— The  tank  truck  is  made  from 
a  rectangular  cooking  oil  can  with  a  part  of  a  small 
can  soldered  to  the  top.  The  faucets  are  made  of 
pieces  of  galvanized  wire  bent  over  at  an  angle. 

The  Street  Sprinkler.— The  street  sprinkler  may 
be  made  from  a  large  round  can,  such  as  a  molasses 
or  syrup  can  with  the  lid  soldered  on  to  make  it 
water  tight.  A  hole  is  cut  in  the  top  of  the  can  and 


/ 


iS2  MAKING  TIN  CAN  TOYS 

OIL  T^TTK  STOLET  SPPJUKLER 


CoAi^Euac 

FIG.  77. 

the  top,  or  open  end,  of  a  small  soup  can  is  soldered 
over  the  hole.  The  sprinkler  tubes  are  made  of 
strips  of  tin  rolled  around  a  large  nail  and  then 
soldered  together, 


PLATE  XIII 


Oil  tank  truck  made  by  Miss  Nell  Guilbert,  Teachers  College 


Toy  Ford  made  by  author 


Rear  view  of  toy  Ford  made  by  author.     Tires  are  made 
of  teething  rings 


J 


PLATE  XIV 


Red  Cross  ambulance  made  by  Miss  Frances  Jones 


Rear  of  Red  Cross  ambulance  made  by  Miss  Jones 


MAKING  A  TOY  AUTO  TRUCK          153 

The  sprinkler  ends  are  made  of  small  round 
metal  boxes  with  tiny  holes  punched  in  the  under 
side.  A  hole  is  punched  in  the  top  of  each  round 
box  and  the  sprinkler  ends  are  soldered  to  the  tubes 
and  the  tubes  soldered  to  the  tank  which  has  holes 
punched  in  it  to  admit  water  to  the  tubes  in  such  a 
way  that  the  water  contained  in  the  tank  will  flow 
from  the  tank  into  the  tubes  and  out  of  the  sprinkler 
holes  punched  in  the  small  boxes.  These  small  boxes 
or  sprinkler  ends  may  be  made  of  thumb  tack  boxes 
or  from  two  bottle  caps  soldered  together,  but  the 
crinkled  part  should  be  cut  away  from  the  bottle 
caps  before  soldering. 

The  Coal  or  Sand  Truck.— The  coal  or  sand  truck 
body  is  made  of  less  than  half  of  a  rectangular  cook- 
ing oil  can,  the  top  of  each  side  flared  out  and  extra 
pieces  fitted  to  each  end  so  as  to  fit  into  the  flaring 
sides  and  to  each  end.  All  sharp  edges  should  be 
folded  over  or  extra  folded  strips  of  tin  folded  over 
and  placed  over  the  edges  of  the  truck  body. 

The  Army  Truck.— The  army  truck  body  is 
made  from  part  of  a  cooking  oil  can.  Galvanized 
wire  of  small  diameter  is  bent  into  hoop  form  and 
soldered  to  the  sides.  These  hoops  may  be  cov- 
ered with  a  khaki-colored  cloth  like  the  one  shown 
on  the  large  army  truck  in  frontispiece;  a  khaki- 
colored  handkerchief  will  make  an  excellent  cover 
for  a  small  truck, 


154  MAKING  TIN  CAN  TOYS 

AMY  TRUCK 


j 

i 

],       "* 

| 
4       ill 

!!x 

1 

iljf  I 

111 

111) 

T 

5IOMS 


FIG.  78. 

The  Ambulance.— The  ambulance  body  may  be 
made  from  a  large  cooking  oil  can.  Both  ends  are 
cut  out  of  the  can  and  the  extra  tin  trimmed  away. 


MAKING  A  TOY  AUTO  TRUCK         155 

One  side  of  the  can  is  cut  off  and  a  flat  piece  of  tin 
soldered  across  the  open  side  of  the  can  to  form 
the  floor  of  the  ambulance.  A  hood  to  cover  the 
driver's  seat  is  made  from  the  curved  side  of  the 
can  cut  away  to  form  the  floor  of  the  body.  Two 
strips  of  tin  may  be  soldered  to  the  side  of  the  body 
to  form  seats  or  stretchers  and  two  pieces  of  gal- 
vanized wire  may  be  soldered  to  the  seats  and  to  the 
floor  and  roof  of  the  body  to  form  handles.  The 
rear  step  may  be  made  of  a  piece  of  folded  tin  and 
two  pieces  of  galvanized  wire  as  shown.  A  realistic 
touch  may  be  given  to  the  ambulance  by  making  a 
small  curtain  of  carriage  leather  and  attaching  it  to 
the  rear  of  the  roof  so  that  it  may  be  rolled  up 
and  fastened  in  place. 

The  Fire  Engine.— The  fire  engine  boiler  may 
be  made  from  a  tomato  can  with  several  different 
sized  can  lids  soldered  to  the  bottom  to  form  the 
smoke  hood  and  a  cylinder  of  tin  soldered  to  the 
lids  to  form  a  chimney.  The  flaring  top  of  the 
chimney  may  be  made  of  the  small  center  lid  some- 
times found  in  the  ends  of  round  cans.  This  small 
lid  or  sealer  may  be  melted  off,  the  center  cut  out  of 
it,  and  then  may  be  soldered  to  the  top  of  the  chim- 
ney. The  steam  gauge  and  water  gauge  may  be 
made  of  the  screw  tops  of  cooking  oil  cans.  The 
water  glass  may  be  made  of  a  small  piece  of  galvan- 
ized wire  and  the  try  cocks  of  rivets  soldered  to  the 


i56  MAKING  TIN  CAN  TOYS 

boiler.    The  rivets  may  be  held  in  place  while  solder- 
ing by  a  pair  of  pliers. 

The  boiler  platform  may  be  made  of  a  sardine1 
can.  The  engine  and  pump  cylinders  may  be  made 
of  adhesive  tape  boxes  or  strips  of  tin  rolled  into 
cylindrical  form  and  ends  soldered  in  place.  The 
engine  wheel  may  be  made  from  an  evaporated  milk 
can.  The  air  chamber  may  be  made  from  a  nickeled 
shaving  stick  box  or  a  brass  curtain  pole  ball.  The 
whistle  may  be  made  from  a  used  .22  cartridge 
case,  etc. 


CHAPTER  XV 
MAKING  A  TOY  AUTO  TRUCK  (Continued} 

THE  STARTING  CRANK THE  STEERING  WHEEL  AND 

COLUMN MUD  GUARDS  AND  RUNNING  BOARDS 

LIGHTS,  TOOL  BOXES,  HORNS,  ETC. DRIVERS'  CABS 

VARIOUS  fittings  may  be  added  to  the  truck  and 
these  add  very  much  to  the  general  appearance  and 
make  the  truck  very  realistic. 

The  Starting  Crank. — A  starting  crank  may  be 
made  of  a  piece  of  galvanized  wire  bent  into  a 
crank  shape  and  placed  in  position  through  holes 
punched  for  it  in  front  of  the  frame  and  through 
an  extra  piece  soldered  underneath  the  frame. 

Cut  a  piece  of  galvanized  wire  about  5  inches  in 
length.  Fairly  heavy  wire  will  look  better  than  thin 
wire  when  made  up  into  a  crank.  Mark  off  i  inch 
from  one  end  of  the  wire  and  then  make  another 
mark  i  inch  in  from  this  one.  Place  the  wire  in  the 
vise  jaws  so  that  the  first  mark  is  parallel  with  the 
top  of  the  jaws.  Use  a  hammer  to  bend  the  wire 
over  at  right  angles,  then  move  the  wire  up  to  the 
second  mark  and  bend  the  wire  again  at  right  angles 
so  as  to  produce  a  crank  form  as  shown  in  Fig.  79. 


158 


MAKING  TIN  CAN  TOYS 


Use  an  ice  pick  to  punch  a  hole  in  the  front  of  the 
truck  frame  and  make  it  large  enough  so  that  the 
crank  will  turn  in  it  freely. 

Cut  a  piece  of  tin  ^  by  ^  inches  and  bend  over 
^4  inch  at  one  end  and  punch  a  hole  to  fit  the  crank 
wire  in  the  center  of  the  largest  side  of  this  piece 
and  solder  it  in  position  directly  back  of  the  hole 


**  SOlDERfD 


FIG.  79. 


FIG.  81. 


punched  in  the  front  of  the  frame  and  in  such  a 
position  that  the  end  of  the  crank  wire  projects 
about  l/4  inch  beyond  the  small  angle  piece  soldered 
to  the  frame,  as  shown  in  Fig.  80. 

Wind  a  narrow  strip  of  tin  about  the  straight 
projecting  end  of  the  crank  wire  and  solder  it  in 
place,  the  solder  being  applied  to  the  end  of  the  wire 
and  to  the  end  of  the  coiled  strip  of  tin  at  the  same 
time,  Fig.  81. 


MAKING  A  TOY  AUTO  TRUCK         159 

The  Steering  Wheel  and  Column. — A  steering 
wheel  may  be  made  of  an  old  clock  gear  wheel  with 
the  teeth  cut  off,  or  a  small  can  lid  may  be  used 
instead.  The  steering  wheel  column  may  be  made 
of  a  piece  of  heavy  galvanized  wire. 

Clock  gear  wheels  are  usually  fastened  to  a  short 
steel  shaft,  but  they  may  be  easily  driven  off  the 
shaft  by  placing  the  shaft  of  the  wheel  in  the  vise 
jaws  so  that  the  wheel  is  above  the  vise  jaws,  and 
then  a  few  light  hammer  blows  directed  at  the  upper 
end  of  the  shaft  will  loosen  the  wheel  and  it  may 
be  easily  removed.  The  vise  jaws  should  hold 
the  shaft  very  loosely  as  it  is  being  driven  out  of 
the  wheel. 

Use  the  metal  shears  to  cut  off  the  gear  teeth 
and  a  smooth  flat  file  to  file  down  the  roughness  left 
at  the  edge  of  the  wheel. 

Find  a  piece  of  galvanized  wire  that  fits  into  the 
hole  in  the  clock  wheel  or  file  a  larger  piece  down 
until  it  does  fit.  The  wire  should  project  slightly 
beyond  the  wheel  and  be  soldered  to  it  in  exactly 
the  same  manner  as  the  tin  can  wheel  is  soldered 
to  an  axle.  The  wire  that  the  steering  gear  is 
soldered  to  should  be  long  enough  to  go  through  the 
dash-board,  hood  and  frame,  if  the  wheel  is  to  turn. 
A  strip  of  tin  is  coiled  about  the  wire  below  the 
frame  as  shown  in  Fig.'  82.  These  are  soldered  in 
place  to  the  wire  to  keep  it  in  position  and  yet  allow 
it  to  turn  freely  in  the  holes. 


•J 


1 60 


MAKING  TIN  CAN  TOYS 


Mud  Guards  and  Running  Boards. — Mud  guards 
may  be  made  from  a  part  of  the  side  and  bottom  of 
a  can  as  shown  in  Fig.  83.  A  3-inch  can  is  the  best 
size  to  use  for  the  truck.  The  can  is  cut  down  to  a 
height  of  iy$  inches  and  then  cut  into  two  parts 
across  the  bottom  so  that  two  mud  guards  may  be 
made  from  each  can.  The  outer  edges  are  turned 


FIG.  82. 

as  in  making  a  tray  and  folded  pieces  are  slipped 
over  the  ends  as  shown  in  Fig.  83.  These  mud  guards 
are  soldered  to  the  frame  in  the  position  shown. 

Running  boards  may  be  made  of  two  pieces  of 
tin,  each  piece  to  be  cut  I  *4  inches  wide  and  as  long 
as  it  is  desired.  The  four  pieces  are  each  turned 
down  %  inch  at  the  long  sides  and  two  pieces  are 
fitted  over  each  other  to  make  one  running  board 


MAKING  A  TOY  AUTO  TRUCK 


161 


as  shown  in  Fig.  84.  Two  or  three  supports  may  be 
made  of  galvanized  wire  for  the  running  boards. 
These  supports  extend  across  the  frame  of  the  truck 
and  one  end  of  each  support  is  soldered  to  each  run- 
ning board.  One  end  of  each  running  board  is  usu- 
ally soldered  to  each  mud  guard. 


FIG.  83 

Lights,  Horns,  etc. — Headlights  may  be  made  of 
thumb  tack  boxes,  bottle  caps  or  the  tops  of  tooth 
powder  cans.  Sidelights  may  be  made  from  the 
screw  caps  of  cooking  oil  cans  or  the  cylindrical  part 
of  tooth  powder  can  tops. 


J 


162 


MAKING  TIN  CAN  TOYS 


Tail-lights  may  be  made  of  the  screw  caps  of 
cooking  oil  cans. 

Searchlights  may  be  made  of  the  smallest  size 
adhesive  tape  boxes  mounted  on  suitable  standards 
made  of  galvanized  wire  or  strips  of  tin. 

The  central  part  of  the  cover  of  these  boxes  is 
cut  away  and  a  piece  of  isinglass  or  transparent 
celluloid  may  be  fitted  in  to  look  like  a  lens.  The 


FIG.  84. 

central  part  is  cut  away  by  using  a  small  chisel  to 
cut  with  when  the  cover  is  placed  over  the  end  of  a 
round  stick  held  in  the  vise.  The  rough  edges  are 
smoothed  away  by  using  a  smooth  half-round  file. 

The  construction  of  these  lights  is  so  simple  as 
to  need  no  further  explanation  and  they  are  simply 
soldered  to  the  frame  or  hood  where  they  touch  it 
when  placed  in  position.  The  searchlight  is  usually 
mounted  by  punching  a  hole  for  the  standard  in  the 


MAKING  A  TOY  AUTO  TRUCK          163 

Iioms 


THuromtc  BOXES 


FIG.  85. 

cowl,  or  by  soldering  on  an  extra  piece  to  the  dash 
to  receive  the  wire  standard,  Fig.  85. 

Tool  Boxes,  Horns,  etc.— Small  rectangular  beef 


N/ 


164  MAKING  TIN  CAN  TOYS 


PART  OF  CURVED 
TOBACCO  BOX 


HWHDP  DKKQSCAB 


cube  or  chewing  gum  boxes  may  be  soldered  to  the 
running  board  for  tool  boxes.  These  boxes  have 
rounded  corners  and  look  very  much  like  the  large 
tool  boxes,  Fig.  85. 


MAKING  A  TOY  AUTO  TRUCK          165 

Horns  may  be  made  in  several  ways,  the  simplest 
form  being  a  piece  of  tin  rolled  into  a  cone  shape 
and  soldered  to  the  dash.  A  more  realistic  horn  may 
be  made  by  soldering  a  screw  cap  to  the  larger  end 
of  the  cone  and  adding  the  cap  of  a  paint  tube  to  the 
smaller  end.  A  hand  horn  may  be  made  as  shown 
in  Fig.  85. 

Speedometers,  voltmeters  and  ammeters  may  be 
made  of  screw  tops  soldered  inside  the  dash  as  shown. 

Drivers'  Cabs. — Most  of  the  large  trucks  have 
some  kind  of  a  cab  to  protect  the  driver  from  the 
weather,  excepting  the  army  trucks,  which  usually 
depend  on  part  of  the  canvas  hood  or  cover  for 
protection. 

On  the  toy  trucks  these  cabs  may  be  very  simply 
made  from  a  square  tin  cocoa  or  olive  oil  can  or  they 
may  be  more  elaborately  built,  depending  on  the 
ability  of  the  maker.  These  cabs  should  be  carefully 
made  and  kept  in  proportion  to  the  rest  of  the  truck. 

All  sharp  edges  should  be  turned  over  or  bound 
with  folded  strips  of  tin.  Windows  may  be  cut  in 
the  cab  by  placing  it  on  the  block  and  using  a  small 
chisel  to  cut  them  out.  The  edges  of  these  windows 
should  all  be  bound  with  folded  strips  of  tin  as 
shown  in  the  illustration. 

The  buggy  top  for  the  driver's  seat  may  be  made 
from  part  of  a  certain  well-known  curved  tobacco 
box  and  several  short  pieces  of  galvanized  wire, 
Fig.  86. 


CHAPTER  XVI 
BOATS 

THE     ROWBOAT THE     SAILBOAT THE     SCOW THE 

TUGBOAT THE  BATTLESHIP THE  FERRY-BOAT 

THE  elliptically  shaped  tin  cans,  used  for  fish  of 
different  kinds,  may  be  made  up  into  boats  that  will 
float.  A  deck  is  soldered  tightly  to  the  can  where 
the  lid  has  been  removed  and  various  superstruc- 
tures added  to  make  the  different  types  of  boats,  but 
to  form  a  rowboat,  seats  may  be  soldered  to  an 
open  can. 

The  Rowboat. — The  rowboat  is  the  simplest 
one  to  make  as  no  deck  is  to  be  soldered  on.  A 
narrow  eliptical  fish  can  should  be  used.  These 
cans  usually  contain  fresh  mackerel,  and  are  of 
real  boat  shape. 

Such  cans  are  opened  at  the  top  inside  the  rolled 
rim.  The  extra  tin  near  the  edge  of  rim  should  be 
broken  away  with  the  pliers  as  in  making  a  pail,  all 
roughness  being  filed  away. 

Lay  the  can  face  down  on  a  sheet  of  paper,  draw- 
ing around  the  outside  edge  with  a  sharp  pencil  to 
get  an  outline  of  the  boat.  This  outline  will  serve 
as  a  guide  when  cutting  out  the  seats.  The  seats 
may  be  cut  to  the  outline  of  the  boat  already  traced 

166 


BOATS  167 

on  paper,  when  the  two  end  seats  will  fit  bow  and 
stern.  But  the  center  seat  will  have  to  be  trimmed 
off  a  bit  to  fit  the  boat.  The  free  edges  of  the  seats 
must  be  turned  down  as  a  finish. 

The  Sailboat.— A  catboat  or  sloop  may  be  made 
from  the  same  sort  of  narrow  elliptical  can  or  even 
of  a  wider  can  of  the  same  shape.  A  deck  is  soldered 
to  this  can,  a  hole  cut  in  it  for  a  cockpit.  To  the 
edge  of  the  cockpit  a  folded  band  of  tin  is  soldered. 

A  tube  of  tin  is  soldered  to  the  stern,  and  a  wire 
tiller  is  run  through  this  tube  and  soldered  to  a 
rudder.  A  hole  is  punched  in  the  center  of  the  for- 
ward deck,  and  a  tube  of  tin  is  soldered  in  this  hole 
to  contain  the  mast.  The  mast  and  spars  are  of  wood. 

The  keel  is  made  of  a  piece  of  tin  soldered  to 
the  bottom  of  the  boat.  The  boat  should  be  com- 
pleted, and  the  mast,  spars  and  sails  in  place,  before 
the  keel  is  put  on.  Try  the  boat  in  a  basin  of  water. 
It  will  probably  tip  over  unless  a  very  broad  can  is 
used  to  make  it.  Cut  out  a  keel  of  the  shape  shown 
in  Fig.  87  and  solder  it  lightly  in  place  at  each  end. 
Place  the  boat  in  the  water  again  to  see  how  it  floats. 
If  the  keel  is  too  heavy,  part  of  it  may  be  cut  off,  if 
it  is  too  light,  it  may  be  broken  away  and  a  heavier 
one  made  and  soldered  on.  When  properly  made 
these  boats  are  good  sailers. 

When  soldering  a  deck  to  the  boat,  the  rough 
edge  remaining  after  cutting  away  the  lid  of  the 
can  is  left  in  place  so  as  to  form  a  sort  of  ledge  to 


i68 


MAKING  TIN  CAN  TOYS 


Roy  BOA? 


SAIL  MT 


FIG.  87. 

solder  the  deck  to.     The  rough  flutings  may  be 
flattened  out  by  using  a  pair  of  flat-nosed  pliers  to 


BOATS  169 

press  down  the  flutes  as  you  work  along  and  simply 
pinching  it  flat. 

The  Scow. — A  small  scow  may  be  made  from  a 
biscuit  box  of  flat  tin,  the  kind  that  has  contained 
small  sweet  biscuits  with  a  cream  filling.  Both  box 
and  lid  are  used  and  cut  down  as  indicated  in  Fig.  88. 
The  box  is  left  at  the  original  width.  The  two  ends 
are  cut  away  from  the  lid.  The  two  folded-down 
sides  of  the  lid  are  used  to  make  folded  strips  with 
which  to  bind  the  sides  of  the  scow. 

A  tiny  box  made  of  part  of  the  lid  is  soldered  to 
the  rear  deck  of  the  scow  for  a  cabin.  A  small  piece 
of  galvanized  wire  bent  at  an  angle  is  soldered  to 
the  cabin  for  a  stovepipe.  The  towing  bits  are  rivets 
soldered  to  the  forward  deck. 

The  Tugboat. — Tugboats  may  be  made  from  the 
larger  elliptical  fish  cans.  A  good  sized  can  of  this 
sort  is  that  one  commonly  found  to  contain  kippered 
herring.  This  can  will  make  up  into  a  large  tug- 
boat, but  if  a  small  tug  is  to  be  made  to  tow  the  scow 
previously  described,  a  mackerel  roe  can  is  the 
best  to  use. 

A  deck  is  soldered  tightly  to  the  can,  as  in  mak- 
ing the  sailboat,  except  that  the  deck  is  left  whole; 
no  openings  are  cut  in  it. 

The  cabin  is  made  from  a  rectangular  cocoa  can, 
or  a  small  olive  oil  can,  cut  down  to  a  suitable  height 
and  soldered  to  the  deck,  bottom  up. 

The  pilot  house  is  made  from  a  small  adhesive 


1  70 


MAKING  TIN  CAN  TOYS 


FERW&W 


FIG. 


plaster  box,  the  smokestack  being1  from  a  small  piece 
of  tin  with  top  edge  first  folded  over  and  then  rolled 


BOATS  171 

into  a  cylindrical  shape.  A  piece  of  wire  may  be 
soldered  to  the  stack  for  an  exhaust  pipe.  A  tiny 
piece  of  wire  is  soldered  to  the  front  of  the  stack  for 
a  whistle.  These  pieces  of  wire  may  be  tied  to  the 
stack  with  fine  iron  binding  wire,  such  as  florists 
use.  When  the  wire  exhaust  and  whistle  are  soldered 
to  the  stack  the  wire  may  then  be  removed.  It  will 
be  found  very  difficult  to  solder  these  short  pieces 
in  place  without  binding  them  in  position. 

The  lifeboat  is  made  from  a  small  folded  piece 
of  tin,  both  ends  being  pushed  in  and  soldered  to- 
gether. The  finished  boat  is  soldered  to  the  roof 
of  the  cabin. 

The  towing  bits  are  rivets  soldered  to  the  deck. 
Remember  to  use  the  pliers  to  hold  the  rivets  in 
place  when  soldering  them  on.  When  these  boats 
are  floated  in  the  water  they  may  be  found  to  tip  to 
one  side  slightly.  A  bit  of  solder  may  be  melted  on 
to  the  bottom  of  the  boat  with  the  copper  in  such  a 
position  that  it  will  counteract  any  tendency  to  tip. 

The  Battleship,  Destroyers,  etc. — The  battleship 
shown  in  Plate  XV  is  made  from  a  narrow  elliptical 
fish  can.  A  deck  is  soldered  on  and  a  cabin  made  of 
a  small  rectangular  box  such  as  beef  cubes  usually 
are  packed  in. 

The  turrets  are  made  of  pill  or  salve  boxes  of 
small  round  tin  design.  The  lid  of  the  box  is  sol- 
dered to  the  deck  and  when  the  box  is  set  in  the  lid 
the  turret  may  be  turned  about. 


1 72  MAKING  TIN  CAN  TOYS 

The  guns  are  made  of  short  pieces  of  wire 
soldered  to  the  turrets  and  cabin. 

The  mast  is  made  of  a  tin  oil  can  spout  or  a 
piece  of  tin  rolled  into  a  cone  shape.  A  screw  cap  of 
a  tooth  paste  tube  is  soldered  to  it  for  a  fighting  top. 

Some  sort  of  a  keel  will  have  to  be  soldered  to 
the  battleship  to  keep  it  upright  in  the  water.  Three 
pieces  of  heavy  galvanized  wire  may  be  soldered  to 
the  bottom,  one  in  the  center  and  one  at  each  side,  or 
a  strip  of  sheet  lead  may  be  soldered  to  the  bottom. 

A  destroyer  may  be  built  up  in  the  same  man- 
ner as  the  battleship;  in  fact,  almost  any  type  of 
boat  may  be  built  by  changing  the  superstructure. 

The  Ferry-boat. — A  ferry-boat  may  be  built  with 
paddle  wheels  that  will  revolve  when  the  boat  is 
pulled  along  in  the  water  or  anchored  in  a  run- 
ning stream. 

The  hull  is  made  from  a  kippered  herring  can 
with  a  deck  soldered  on.  Four  strips  of  tin  are  cut 
for  the  sides  of  the  cabins.  Two  of  these  are 
soldered  to  the  sides  of  the  hull  next  to  the  rolled 
rim  and  following  the  outline  of  the  can  or  hull. 
The  two  inside  walls  of  the  cabins  are  soldered  about 
24  of  an  inch  inside  the  outer  walls  which  leaves  a 
gangway  through  the  center  of  the  boat. 

An  upper  deck  is  soldered  to  these  four  walls; 
the  inner  walls  need  only  be  soldered  to  the  upper 
deck  at  each  end. 


BOATS  173 

The  two  pilot  houses  are  made  of  adhesive 
plaster  boxes  and  the  smokestack  is  rolled  up  from 
a  piece  of  tin. 

A  hole  is  punched  or  drilled  through  all  four 
walls  of  the  cabin  to  receive  the  axle  of  the 
paddle  wheels. 

The  paddle  wheels  are  made  from  small  cans 
exactly  in  the  same  way  as  the  auto  truck  wheels 
and  eight  small  square  pieces  of  tin  are  soldered  to 
the  circumference  of  each  wheel  for  paddles.  Rolled 
strips  of  tin  are  placed  on  the  axles  between  the 
wheels  and  the  cabins  for  washers.  The  axle  should 
revolve  very  freely  in  the  axle  holes. 

If  one  has  some  mechanical  ability  it  is  not  very 
difficult  to  form  a  crank  in  the  paddle  wheel  axle  and 
attach  a  connecting  rod  to  a  small  tin  walking  beam 
which  will  move  up  and  down  as  the  paddle  wheels 
revolve.  An  imitation  piston  rod  may  be  fastened 
to  the  other  end  of  the  walking  beam  and  allowed 
to  run  free  through  a  hole  in  the  upper  deck. 

The  wheels  of  the  ferry-boat  will  revolve  if  it 
is  anchored  in  a  running  stream  or  towed  behind 
a  rowboat. 


CHAPTER  XVII 
A  TOY  LOCOMOTIVE 

A  SIMPLE  TOY  LOCOMOTIVE THE  FRAME — BOILER — 

CAB WHEELS CYLINDERS      AND      CONNECTING 

RODS THE     SMOKESTACK,      STEAM      DOME     AND 

WHISTLE,  SAND  BOX  AND  HEADLIGHT CARS — A 

PASSENGER  CAR  AND  SOME  OTHERS 

THE  locomotive  shown  in  Plate  XV  is  made  so 
that  the  connecting  rods  move  back  and  forth  as  the 
locomotive  is  pulled  along.  The  principal  dimen- 
sions are  given  in  Fig.  89.  This  locomotive  is  not 
much  more  difficult  to  make  than  the  auto  truck,  but 
it  should  not  be  attempted  until  the  auto  truck  is 
satisfactorily  completed. 

The  Frame.— The  frame  of  the  locomotive  should 
be  made  first,  and  it  is  made  from  a  flat  piece  of  tin 
5*4  by  10^  inches.  Scribe  a  line  l/4  inch  inside  and 
along  all  edges,  cut  off  the  corners  as  shown  in 
Fig.  89  and  fold  all  four  edges  in.  Cut  into  the  cor- 
ners of  the  frame  on  lines  A,  A,  A,  A. 

Turn  down  the  two  sides  of  the  frame  first,  then 
turn  down  the  two  ends.  The  four  pieces  of  the 
sides  that  project  beyond  the  sides  are  turned  in 
over  the  ends  as  shown  in  Fig.  89.  The  sides  and 


A  TOY  LOCOMOTIVE 


ToY 
L°c°n°TivD 

Y/ITH   DLTAIL5 


FIG.  89. 

ends  of  the  frame  may  be  turned  over  a  square 
maple  block.    Solder  the  frame  at  the  ends. 


176  MAKING  TIN  CAN  TOYS 

The  Boiler.— The  boiler  is  made  of  two  small 
soup  cans.  One  whole  can  is  used  and  the  bottom 
and  part  of  the  sides  of  another  can  of  exactly  the 
same  size  is  soldered  to  the  first  can  to  make  a  long 
boiler.  One  long  can,  if  obtainable,  may  be  used 
for  the  boiler.  When  two  or  more  cans  are  soldered 
together  to  make  a  long  boiler  the  two  rolled  rims 
of  the  cans  soldered  together  give  the  appearance  of 
a  boiler  strap  as  shown  in  Fig.  89. 

The  Cab. — The  cab  is  made  of  a  rectangular 
cocoa  can.  Most  of  one  side  is  cut  away  leaving  just 
enough  to  fold  back  against  the  sides  of  the  cab. 
The  cab  is  then  placed  on  a  wooden  block  and  a 
chisel  is  used  to  cut  the  window  openings.  A  large 
round  punch  may  be  used  to  cut  out  the  front  win- 
dows or  a  very  small  chisel  made  of  a  nail  may  be 
used  to  cut  these  circular  windows. 

A  top  is  made  for  the  cab  from  a  piece  of  tin 
324  by  324  inches  square.  One-quarter  inch  is 
marked  off  and  turned  in  all  around  this  piece.  Two 
opposite  sides  are  folded  down  and  the  two  other 
sides  are  left  standing  at  right  angles  to  the  piece  and 
these  two  opposite  sides  are  left  open  just  enough 
to  slide  over  the  top  of  box  forming  the  cab  where 
the  top  is  soldered  in  place  as  shown  in  the  drawing. 

The  boiler  should  be  soldered  to  the  cab  and  then 
these  two  are  soldered  to  the  frame  where  they 
touch  it  at  the  front  end  of  the  boiler  and  the  base 
of  the  cab. 


PLATE  XVI 


Simple  toy  locomotive  and  sand  or  water  mill  made  by  the  author 


The  first  tin  can  toy.    A  locomotive  made  by  the  author  for  his  son 


A  TOY  LOCOMOTIVE  177 

The  Wheels. — The  front  wheels  of  the  locomo- 
tive are  made  of  the  small  sized  evaporated  milk  cans 
exactly  in  the  same  way  that  the  wheels  of  the  auto 
truck  are  made.  These  wheels  are  2.^/2  inches  in 
diameter  and  ft  inch  wide. 

The  wire  axle  of  the  front  wheels  passes  through 
two  lugs  that  are  soldered  to  the  sides  of  the  frame. 

The  driving  wheels  are  made  from  3^ -inch 
rolled-rim  cans.  The  axle  for  these  wheels  passes 
directly  through  holes  in  the  sides  of  the,  frame. 

A  piece  of  galvanized  wire  -ij4  inches  in  length 
is  used  for  driving  pins  for  the  connecting  rods  on 
each  driving  wheel.  Each  piece  of  wire  is  placed 
through  two  holes  in  the  driving  wheel,  these  holes 
being  directly  opposite  each  other  and  exactly  J4 
inch  from  the  center  of  each  wheel.  As  these  driv- 
ing pins  pass  entirely  through  the  wheel  they  should 
be  soldered  to  each  side  of  it  in  order  to  give  added 
strength,  as  they  would  break  away  from  the  wheels 
very  easily  if  they  did  not  pass  entirely  through  the 
wheel  and  were  not  supported  by  each  side  of  it. 

Cylinders  and  Connecting  Rods. — These  cylinders 
are  rolled  up  from  flat  pieces  of  tin  each  2^4  by  3^4 
inches.  The  tin  is  folded  over  on  the  two  shortest 
sides  of  each  piece  before  it  is  formed  into  a  cylindri- 
cal shape,  the  folded  sides  of  the  tin  forming  each 
end  of  the  cylinders. 

The  connecting  rods  are  made  of  two  strips  of 
tin,  each  ^4  by  6^4  inches.  Both  sides  of  the  strip 


178  MAKING  TIN  CAN  TOYS 

are  folded  in,  making  a  triple  thickness  of  tin  and 
a  connecting  rod  about  Vie  inch  wide  and  6^4 
inches  long. 

A  disk  of  tin  is  soldered  to  one  end  of  each  con- 
necting rod.  These  disks  should  be  somewhat 
smaller  than  the  diameter  of  the  cylinders  so  that  they 
may  slide  easily  back  and  forth  inside  the  cylinders. 

The  connecting  rods  have  to  be  bent  at  the  two 
angles  shown  in  Fig.  89  so  that  each  rod  may  be 
in  line  with  the  cylinder  and  with  the  driving  wheel. 

The  Smokestack,  Steam  Dome  and  Whistle, 
Sand  Box  and  Headlight.— The  smokestack  is  rolled 
up  from  a  piece  of  tin  2^4  by  2%  inches.  This  piece 
of  tin  is  cut  from  the  side  of  a  can  so  as  to  leave  the 
rolled  rim  at  the  top  for  the  rim  of  the  stack. 

The  steam  dome  is  made  of  the  top  part  of  a 
tooth  powder  can  with  the  distributer  top  left  on. 
This  top  is  left  open  to  form  a  whistle.  That  part 
of  the  tooth  powder  can  which  rests  against  the 
boiler  must  be  fitted  very  carefully  so  as  to  conform 
to  the  curve  of  the  boiler. 

The  sand  box  may  be  made  from  a  bottle  cap 
and  the  headlight  may  be  made  from  another  bottle 
cap  as  shown  in  the  drawing. 

Cars. — A  coal  tender  for  the  locomotive  may  be 
made  from  a  small  square  box  mounted  on  a  frame 
or  platform  similar  to  the  locomotive,  only  smaller. 
The  car  wheels  may  be  made  from  the  small  evapo- 
rated milk  cans  or  from  any  small  cans  obtainable. 


A  TOY  LOCOMOTIVE  179 

A  freight  car  may  be  made  from  a  long  square 
box  in  a  manner  similar  to  the  coal  tender.  Pas- 
senger cars  may  be  made  from  long  rectangular  cans 
and  the  windows  and  doors  may  be  cut  or  painted 
on  the  sides  or  ends.  Be  sure  to  place  folded  strips 
of  tin  over  any  raw  edges  left  when  cutting  out 
windows  and  doors. 

A  Passenger  Car  and  Some  Others. — A  passenger 
car  may  be  made  from  an  olive  or  cooking  oil  can ; 
that  is,  about  half  of  one  of  the  larger  cans  cut 
lengthwise.  Select  a  can  so  that  when  it  is  cut 
lengthwise  to  dimension  it  will  be  in  proportion  to 
the  locomotive  which  is  to  be  used  with  it.  No 
dimensions  are  given  in  the  drawings  as  these  cans 
vary  in  size,  but  it  is  not  difficult  to  find  a  suitable 
rectangular  can  for  a  passenger  car. 

When  the  can  is  cut  open,  draw  two  parallel 
lines  along  the  sides  for  window  openings.  Do  not 
try  to  cut  each  window  separately,  but  cut  one  long 
opening  for  all  the  windows,  bind  the  cut  edges  with 
folded  strips  and  then  solder  folded  pieces  across 
the  window  openings  at  intervals  for  divisions  be- 
tween the  windows. 

Cut  a  door  in  each  end  of  the  car  and  bind  the 
edges  with  folded  tin.  The  projecting  hoods  over 
the  door  at  each  end  of  the  car  roof  may  be  made  of 
part  of  the  sides  and  bottom  of  a  square  can  or  from 
that  part  of  the  olive  or  cooking  oil  can  that  is  cut 
away  in  making  the  body  of  the  car. 


i8o  MAKING  TIN  CAN  TOYS 


5^  CABOOSE 


FIG.  90. 


'A  TOY  LOCOMOTIVE  181 

A  flat  piece  of  tin  may  be  used  for  the  bottom  of 
the  car,  this  piece  being  formed  in  exactly  the  same 
way  that  the  frame  of  the  auto  truck  is  formed.  It 
is  made  long  enough  to  allow  for  a  platform  at  each 
end  of  the  car,  and  the  car  body  is  soldered 
securely  to  it. 

Car  wheels  may  be  made  from  very  small  cans  as 
any  other  tin  can  wheels  are  made.  Two  bottle  caps 
may  be  soldered  together  for  a  wheel  or  several  flat 
disks  of  tin  may  be  cut  and  soldered  together  at  the 
edges  to  form  a  wheel.  The  tin  washers  used  with 
roofing  nails  make  an  excellent  wheel  when  two  are 
soldered  together,  back  to  back.  Never  try  to  use  a 
single  can  lid,  bottle  cap  or  tin  disk  for  a  wheel  that 
is  to  bear  any  weight.  Any  of  these  are  too  weak  to 
stand  up  alone.  The  wheels  are  mounted  in  the 
manner  shown  in  the  drawings  of  the  passenger  car. 

Other  cars  may  be  made  from  cans  as  shown  in 
Fig.  90,  the  construction  being  so  simple  as  to  need 
no  further  description.  These  cars  may  be  made  as 
simple  or  as  elaborate  as  the  skill  of  the  makerpermits. 


CHAPTER  XVIII 

SIMPLE  MECHANICAL  TOYS 
WATER  WHEELS  AND  SANDMILLS A  SIMPLE  STEAM 

TURBINE  AND  BOILER A  WINDMILL  AND  TOWER 

AEROPLANE  WEATHERVANE 

WATER  WHEELS  and  sandmills  may  be  made 
from  bottle  caps  and  can  lids.  Two  push-in  or 
friction-top  can  lids  are  soldered  together  to  form 
a  flanged  wheel  and  bottle  caps  are  soldered  between 
the  flanges,  at  equal  intervals,  for  the  buckets.  The 
general  construction  is  shown  in  Fig.  91.  A  nozzle 
may  be  formed  from  a  piece  of  tin  and  soldered  to 
the  standard  so  that  a  hose  may  be  connected  with 
it  and  to  faucet,  or,  the  water  wheel  may  be  set  in  a 
sink  under  a  faucet  or  placed  in  a  stream  of  run- 
ning water. 

A  funnel  or  sand  hopper  may  be  made  of  tin  and 
soldered  to  a  standard  which  holds  the  bucket  wheel. 
Fine  dry  sand  placed  in  the  hopper  will  run  through 
the  hole  in  the  bottom  and  cause  the  bucket  wheel 
to  revolve. 

A  Simple  Steam  Turbine  and  Boiler. — A  very 

simple  and  amusing  steam  turbine  that  runs  with 

steam  generated  in  a  tin-can  boiler  may  be  made 

from  tin  cans.     Select  a  well-soldered  can  with  a 

182 


SIMPLE  MECHANICAL  TOYS  183 


184  MAKING  TIN  CAN  TOYS 

tight-fitting  lid,  such  as  a  molasses  or  syrup  can 
with  a  friction-top  lid.  The  lid  will  have  to  be 
soldered  in  place  to  make  it  steam  tight. 

Punch  a  hole  about  y\  inch  in  diameter  near  one 
side  of  the  lid  for  a  filler  hole.  See  that  this  hole  is 
perfectly  round  so  that  a  cork  may  be  fitted  in  to 
make  it  steam  tight. 

The  vane  wheel  should  be  about  3  inches  in 
diameter  and  very  carefully  made.  See  that  the  axle 
is  soldered  exactly  in  the  center  of  the  wheel.  The 
vanes  should  be  small  and  numerous  and  each  one 
exactly  the  same  size.  The  method  of  construc- 
tion is  shown  on  page  183  (full  page  drawing). 
A  3-inch  circle  is  carefully  laid  out  on  a  flat  piece 
of  tin  and  then  another  circle  is  laid  off  inside 
the  first  one  about  ^  mcn  m-  The  outer  circle  is 
then  divided  up  into  36  equal  parts.  Draw  straight 
lines  from  each  dividing  dot  at  the  edge  to  the 
center  of  the  wheel.  Bore  a  small  hole  exactly 
where  each  line  crosses  the  inner  circle.  Cut  down 
each  dividing  line  to  each  hole.  Use  the  pliers  to  turn 
each  vane  at  right  angles  to  the  face  of  the  wheel. 

The  steam  nozzle  should  be  very  small.  A  tri- 
angular piece  of  tin  may  be  formed  around  a  fine 
wire  nail  or  pin.  The  opening  in  the  nozzle  should 
be  about  1/32  inch  in  diameter.  The  nozzle  should 
be  well  soldered  together  and  then  soldered  to  the 
boiler,  over  a  hole  of  a  suitable  size  to  allow  the 
steam  to  flow  from  the  boiler  into  the  nozzle.  Be 


SIMPLE  MECHANICAL  TOYS  185 

sure  not  to  solder  up  the  tube  so  that  the  steam  may 
not  escape.  A  piece  of  broom  straw  may  be  placed 
in  the  nozzle  when  soldering  it  together,  and  it  may 
be  left  in  when  the  nozzle  is  soldered  to  the  boiler. 
The  straw  should  extend  into  the  boiler  and  may  be 
withdrawn  when  the  soldering  operations  are  com- 
pleted. Do  not  use  wire  inside  the  nozzle  to  pre- 
vent it  filling  with  solder  as  the  solder  will  stick  to  it 
and  prevent  its  being  withdrawn. 

Use  care  in  placing  the  nozzle  in  position  under 
the  vane  wheel  so  that  the  steam  will  strike  the 
vanes  squarely  when  it  escapes.  Set  the  end  of  the 
nozzle  as  close  to  the  vanes  as  possible,  but  so  that  it 
does  not  strike  the  vanes  when  the  wheel  revolves. 

These  turbines  run  at  very  high  speed  when  care- 
fully made.  Do  not  use  too  much  heat  under  the 
boiler,  as  too  great  pressure  may  explode  it  with 
disastrous  results.  If  the  boiler  is  set  over  a  gas 
flame,  take  care  not  to  allow  the  flame  to  flare  out 
around  the  boiler  and  creep  up  the  sides,  as  it  may 
then  melt  off  the  top  of  the  boiler  even  when  there 
is  considerable  water  in  it.  A  moderate  flame  will 
cause  enough  pressure  to  be  generated  in  the  boiler 
to  make  the  vane  wheel  revolve  rapidly.  If  care  is 
used  in  fitting  the  cork  in  the  filler  hole,  it  may  be 
made  steam  tight  by  pushing  it  into  the  filler  hole 
with  a  light  pressure  so  that  if  too  much  pressure  is 
generated  in  the  boiler  the  cork  will  blow  out. 

A  pinion   from  a  small  clock  works  may  be 


1 86  MAKING  TIN  CAN  TOYS 

soldered  to  the  vane  wheel  shaft  and  meshed  in 
with  a  large  gear  which  is  set  on  a  shaft  soldered 
to  the  supporting  upright  at  one  side  of  the  wheel. 
A  small  pulley  may  be  made  of  wood  or  metal  and 
fastened  to  the  large  gear.  This  arrangement  of 
gears  will  give  a  reduced  speed  and  a  string  belt 
may  be  run  from  the  pulley  to  some  light  running 
toy  machine.  The  pinion  and  gear  fastened  to  the 
turbine  should  run  very  easily. 

An  alcohol  heating  lamp  may  be  made  for  the 
turbine  boiler  by  soldering  a  wick  tube  and  a  vent 
tube  to  a  shoe  paste  or  salve  box. 

The  wick  tube  should  be  made  from  a  strip  of 
tin  rolled  up  into  a  cylindrical  shape.  It  should  be 
about  y*  inch  in  diameter  and  il/2  inches  in  length 
when  soldered  together.  The  wick  tube  should  ex- 
tend about  i  inch  above  the  top  of  the  lamp  and  it 
snould  be  soldered  firmly  in  a  hole  cut  in  the  top  of 
the  lamp  to  receive  it. 

A  small  tube  about  j4  mch  in  diameter  and  3 
inches  long  is  soldered  together.  This  tube  should 
be  soldered  over  a  hole  near  the  side  of  the  lamp  at 
the  top  and  soldered  on  at  an  angle  as  shown  in 
Fig.  91.  It  serves  as  a  vent,  allowing  the  alcohol 
gas  generated  within  the  top  of  the  lamp  to  escape 
and  it  also  serves  as  a  handle.  An  alcohol  lamp 
fitted  with  a  vent  tube  of  this  description  will  not 
boil  over  and  catch  fire  as  so  many  of  the  small 
alcohol  lamps  provided  with  toy  steam  engines  are 


SIMPLE  MECHANICAL  TOYS  187 

sure  to  do.  Vent  tubes  soldered  to  these  lamps  in 
such  a  manner  as  to  conduct  the  gas  away  from  the 
flame  will  provide  against  accidents  of  this  sort. 

A  filler  hole  should  be  placed  in  the  top  of  the 
lamp  as  far  away  from  the  wick  tube  as  possible. 
A  common  cork  may  be  used  as  a  stopper.  A  small 
funnel  may  be  easily  made  from  some  pieces  of 
scrap  tin  and  used  for  filling  the  boiler  and  the  lamp. 

A  Windmill  and  Tower. — A  windmill  and  tower 
that  will  look  very  realistic  when  completed  may  be 
made  from  tin  cans.  The  vane  wheel  is  composed  of 
twelve  blades  set  in  two  can  lids.  The  vanes  are  cut 
from  a  flat  piece  of  tin,  care  being  taken  to  make 
each  one  exactly  the  same  size.  A  large  can  lid  is 
used  for  the  outer  vane  support  and  the  central  part 
of  this  lid  is  cut  away.  Twelve  cuts  are  made  around 
the  edge  of  the  can  lid  at  equal  distances  and  the 
vanes  soldered  in  these  cuts. 

A  small  can  lid  is  used  for  the  center  of  the 
wheel  and  the  ends  of  the  vanes  soldered  to  it. 

The  tower  is  made  of  strips  of  folded  tin  and 
the  tank  from  a  tin  can  is  shown  in  Fig.  92. 

Aeroplane  Weathervane.— A  biplane  weather- 
vane  may  be  made  from  flat  strips  of  tin.  Large 
round  or  square  cans  may  be  opened  out  and  the  tin 
taken  from  them  used  to  make  the  aeroplane 
weathervane.  When  this  weathervane  is  mounted 
on  a  suitable  spike  on  which  it  may  turn  about  freely 


1  88 


MAKING  TIN  CAN  TOYS 


U«-  COILED 


FIG.  92. 


PLATE  XVIII 


^ 


Aeroplane  weathervanes  made  by  the  author 


SIMPLE  MECHANICAL  TOYS  189 

in  the  wind,  the  propeller  will  revolve  rapidly  when 
the  wind  blows. 

The  construction  of  the  aeroplane  is  quite  simple 
and  the  principal  dimensions  are  given  in  Fig.  93. 
The  construction  is  very  well  shown  in  Plate  XVIII. 
If  the  foregoing  problems  have  been  satisfactorily 
worked  out  there  will  be  no  difficulty  in  constructing 
the  aeroplane  from  the  dimensions  given. 

The  two  wings  are  made  from  two  pieces  of  tin 
of  the  required  size  with  the  edges  folded  over. 

The  body  of  fuselage  is  made  of  a  long  triangu- 
lar piece  of  tin  folded  up  on  each  side  so  as  to  form 
a  sort  of  long  tapering  box.  A  cover  is  made  for 
this  box  and  divided  into  two  parts  so  as  to  leave  a 
cockpit  opening. 

The  struts  or  wing  supports  are  made  from  nar- 
row strips  of  tin  that  are  folded  almost  together  for 
strength.  The  small  guy  wires  had  best  be  made 
from  copper  wire  of  small  diameter.  If  it  is  difficult 
to  get  small  copper  wire,  it  may  be  possible  to  get 
two  or  three  feet  of  insulated  copper  wire  used  for 
electrical  purposes.  Such  wire  is  employed  to  wind 
small  magnets  used  on  electric  bells.  The  insulation 
easily  burns  off.  Copper  wire  solders  very  easily. 

The  rudder  and  tail  planes  are  made  from  flat 
pieces  of  tin.  A  straight  piece  of  wire  is  used  for 
the  propeller  shaft.  A  tube  is  made  of  tin  and  used 
as  a  bearing  for  the  shaft.  The  propeller  shaft 
should  fit  very  loosely  in  the  tube.  The  bearing  tube 


i  go 


MAKING  TIN  CAN  TOYS 

ABWWK  WEATHERVAHL 

FfiPHI  VIEW 


FIG.  93. 

is  soldered  firmly  to  the  body  of  the  aeroplane  as 
shown  in  Fig.  93.  When  completely  assembled, 
except  for  the  propeller  and  its  shaft,  the  propeller 
is  soldered  to  one  end  of  the  shaft.  Care  should  be 


SIMPLE  MECHANICAL  TOYS  191 

taken  to  mount  the  propeller  blade  in  such  a  way 
that  the  shaft  is  exactly  in  the  center,  so  that  one 
side  of  the  propeller  is  not  heavier  than  the  other. 
The  shaft  is  pushed  through  the  bearing  tube  and 
should  project  about  l/$  inch  beyond  it.  A  strip  of 
tin  is  wound  around  this  projecting  end  of  the  shaft 
and  soldered  to  it  in  such  a  manner  that  the  shaft  is 
free  to  turn  in  the  tube. 

When  the  plane  is  completely  assembled  try  it  to 
find  the  point  at  which  it  balances  when  rested  on 
the  finger  under  the  fuselage.  A  hole  should  be 
punched  at  this  point  large  enough  to  admit  the  iron 
rod  or  piece  of  heavy  wire  that  is  to  be  used  for  the 
spike  on  which  to  mount  the  weathervane.  A  sec- 
ond hole  is  punched  directly  above  the  first  one ;  this 
hole  is  considerably  smaller  than  the  hole  beneath  it. 
The  top  of  the  iron  spike  that  supports  the  aero- 
plane weathervane  is  filed  down  to  a  smaller  diam- 
eter so  that  when  the  spike  is  pushed  through  the 
larger  hole  the  smaller  or  filed  part  of  the  spike  will 
go  through  the  hole  in  the  upper  part  of  the  fuselage. 
The  weathervane  will  then  rest  on  the  shoulder 
formed  on  the  spike  as  shown  in  the  illustration.  A 
block  of  wood  may  be  nailed  to  the  roof  peak  of  the 
house  or  barn  and  a  hole  bored  into  it  the  size  of 
the  supporting  spike,  and  the  spike  may  be  pushed 
into  this  and  the  aeroplane  weathervane  mounted 
on  the  spike.  It  should  be  well  painted  in  bright 
colors  and  if  well  made  will  prove  a  very  pleasing  toy. 


CHAPTER  XIX 

CANDLESTICKS 
WALL  SCONCES,  AND  A  LANTERN 

THE  base  of  the  tall  candlestick  shown  in  Fig.  94 
is  made  of  various  sized  cans  cut  down  to  tray-like 
forms  and  soldered  together.  As  may  be  seen 
by  studying  them,  the  shafts  are  made  from  ordi- 
nary tin  campaign  horns.  The  drip  cups  are  made 
of  press-in  can  lids  or  from  small  cans  cut  down  to 
tray-like  shapes.  All  sharp  edges  are  to  be  turned 
over.  The  candle  sockets  are  formed  in  the  same 
way  as  that  of  the  candlestick  described  in  Chapter 
VIII,  page  94. 

The  wall  sconces  are  made  of  large  olive  or 
cooking  oil  cans  or  the  cans  that  have  contained 
automobile  lubricating  oils.  All  edges  should  be 
turned  or  bound  with  folded  strips  of  tin.  Sconce 
No.  2  may  be  made  of  a  flat  sheet  of  tin  and  half  of 
a  large  round  can  cut  down  to  tray  size.  Sconce 
No.  3  may  be  made  of  a  large  round  can  cut  down 
to  shape. 

The  lantern  is  not  made  from  a  rectangular  can, 

but  it  is  made  from  two  square  pieces  of  tin  used  for 

the  top  and  bottom,  part  of  a  can  being  fitted  in  a 

hole  cut  in  the  square  piece  used  for  the  top  of  the 

192 


CANDLESTICKS 


193 


Sconces 


FIG.  94. 

lantern.    The  four  corner  pieces  of  the  lantern  are 
made  of  strips  of  tin  cut  at  a  right  angle.    • 
13 


i94  MAKING  TIN  CAN  TOYS 

A  sliding  door  is  made  from  a  flat  sheet  of  tin, 
this  door  sliding  between  two  folded  strips  of  tin 
which  are  soldered  to  the  framework  of  the  lantern. 
Three  pieces  of  glass  are  used  for  the  lantern,  as 
these  are  held  in  place  by  small  pieces  of  tin  folded  at 
an  angle,  one  part  of  which  rests  against  the  glass 
and  the  other  part  is  soldered  to  the  tin  work  of  the 
lantern.  These  pieces  are  put  in  place  as  each  piece 
of  glass  is  placed  in  the  lantern,  one  at  the  top  and 
the  other  at  the  bottom  of  each  piece  of  glass. 


CHAPTER  XX 

CAMP  AND  KITCHEN  EQUIPMENT 

A    COFFEE    POT BOILING    PAILS FRYING    PAN 

TOASTER A  CAMP  SHOWER  BATH CANTEEN  OR 

HOT  WATER  BOTTLE A  MATCH  BOX 

AN  excellent  coffee  pot  may  be  made  from  a 
gallon  can  or  from  a  smaller  one.  This  tin  must  be 
of  the  rolled  rim  or  locked  seam  type  so  that  it  will 
not  melt  apart  or  leak  if  it  should  accidently  boil  dry. 

Lugs  are  riveted  to  the  side  of  the  can  as  de- 
scribed in  making  a  pail  in  Chapter  IX,  page  100.  A 
series  of  small  holes  are  punched  in  a  triangular 
formation  in  such  a  manner  that  they  will  be  imme- 
diately back  of  the  spout  when  this  is  soldered 
in  place. 

The  spout  is  made  of  a  separate  piece  of  tin  of  a 
triangular  shape.  This  piece  of  tin  is  formed  into 
shape  and  is  then  riveted  to  the  coffee  pot  over  the 
strainer  holes.  After  it  is  held  in  place  by  the  rivets 
it  is  tightly  soldered  so  that  it  will  not  leak.  The 
rivets  are  to  prevent  the  spout  from  melting  off. 

A  lid  for  the  coffee  pot  may  be  made  from  the 
bottom  of  another  can  of  the  same  size.  Some  cans 
are  provided  with  a  cover  and  these  make  excellent 
coffee  pots. 


i96  MAKING  TIN  CAN  TOYS 

Boiling  or  Cooking  Pails. — -The  boiling  or  cook- 
ing pails  are  made  in  the  same  manner  as  the  pails 
described  in  Chapter  IX,  page  100.  Care  should  be 
taken  to  use  only  rolled  rim  or  locked  seam  pails  for 
any  utensil  that  is  to  go  over  a  fire. 

Frying  Pan. — The  frying  pan  is  made  by  cutting 
down  a  large  round  or  square  can  of  the  rolled  or 
locked  seam  type.  The  edges  are  turned  and  a 
suitable  handle  is  riveted  on  as  shown.  Be  sure  to 
rivet  all  joints  that  are  to  be  subjected  to  the  heat 
from  a  fire. 

Toaster. — A  toaster  or  broiler  may  be  made  from 
folded  strips  of  tin  which  are  strongly  riveted  to- 
gether as  shown  in  Fig.  95.  Be  sure  to  put  two 
rivets  in  each  corner  of  the  toaster. 

The  Canteen  or  Hot  Water  Bottle.— The  canteen 
or  hot  water  bottle  may  be  made  of  two  cake  or  pie 
tins  soldered  together  or  from  large  round  gallon 
cans  cut  to  size  and  made  up  like  a  large  tin  can 
wheel.  A  water-tight  screw  cap  may  be  fitted  to  the 
canteen  by  removing  the  screw  top  and  cap  from  a 
maple  syrup  or  automobile  oil  can  and  soldering  the 
screw  over  a  suitable  hole  in  the  canteen.  Most  of 
these  screw  caps  may  be  melted  off  the  original  can 
by  simply  heating  them,  the  cap  itself  being  re- 
moved during  this  operation. 

A  Camp  Shower  Bath.— A  camp  shower  bath 
may  be  made  of  a  very  large  can,  a  shoe  paste  box,  a 


§*s£ 


PLATE  XXI 


A  doll's  bathroom  made  by  the  author.  The  bath  tub  is  made 
of  a  corn  can,  cut  in  half  lengthwise.  Part  of  another  can  of  the 
same  size  is  fitted  with  the  open  end  of  the  first  can.  The  edges 
are  turned  over.  The  washstand  is  made  of  the  top  and  bottom 
of  a  spice  box;  the  bowl  is  made  of  a  varnish  can  cap.  The  column 
is  made  of  a  pill  box.  The  mirror  is  made  of  a  can  lid. 


A  tin  can  laundry  made  by  the  author.  The  laundry  tubs  are 
made  of  a  cigarette  box.  Rivets  are  used  as  faucets.  The  sink 
is  made  of  a  pocket  tobacco  box.  Cup  hooks  are  used  as  faucets. 
The  clock  is  made  of  a  small  tin  box  and  can  lids. 


CAMP  AND  KITCHEN  EQUIPMENT     197 

P°T 


CAHIEEn 


JCHB°X 


FIG.  95. 


short  length  of   rubber  hose  and  two   small   flat 
pieces  of  tin. 


i98  MAKING  TIN  CAN  TOYS 

A  5-gallon  can  that  has  contained  automobile 
oil  is  easily  found  and  a  hot  lye  bath  will  remove 
all  traces  of  the  oil.  The  lye  solution  is  placed  in 
the  can  and  raised  to  the  boiling  point.  It  is  then 
poured  out  and  the  can  is  rinsed  with  hot  water. 


Knaioi 


FIG.  96. 

The  top  of  the  can  is  removed  and  a  strong 
handle  fixed  to  the  can.  A  small  nipple  of  tin  is 
soldered  to  the  side  of  the  can,  near  the  bottom. 
This  nipple  is  simply  a  flat  piece  of  tin  rolled  into  a 
cylindrical  shape  and  of  a  suitable  size  so  that  a  piece 
of  rubber  hose  may  be  fitted  tightly  over  it. 

A  second  nipple  of  the  same  size  should  be  made 
for  the  spray  nozzle.  The  spray  nozzle  is  made  from 


CAMP  AND  KITCHEN  EQUIPMENT     199 

a  shoe  paste  or  salve  box.  A  number  of  fine  holes 
are  punched  in  the  box  lid  and  the  tin  pipe  or  nipple 
is  soldered  in  a  hole  made  for  it  in  the  bottom 
of  the  box. 

A  wire  hook  is  provided  at  the  rim  of  the  pail 
to  hold  the  spray  nozzle  in  place  when  it  is  not 
desired  to  have  the  water  run  out  of  it. 

It  will  be  found  convenient  to  have  a  double 
pulley  and  rope  rigged  to  hoist  the  pail  to  a  con- 
venient height  after  filling. 

The  Match  Box.— The  match  box  is  made  of  two 
cigarette  boxes,  one  for  good  matches  and  the 
other  for  burned  matches.  These  boxes  are  of  ample 
size  to  hold  the  paper  drawer  of  a  large  box  of 
parlor  matches. 

The  hinged  top  is  left  on  the  box  that  is  to  hold 
the  unburned  matches.  This  box  is  soldered  to  two 
supporting  brackets  in  such  a  manner  that  it  is  held 
away  from  the  piece  of  tin  forming  the  back  for 
the  two  boxes  and  so  that  the  lid  of  the  upper  box 
may  be  raised.  The  lower  box  is  simply  soldered  to 
the  back  piece.  Three  folded  strips  of  tin  are  sol- 
dered to  the  front  of  this  second  box  to  form  a  holder 
for  a  strip  of  sand  paper  to  strike  the  matches  on. 


CHAPTER  XXI 

PREPARING  THE  TOYS  FOR  PAINTING 

REMOVING  SURPLUS  SOLDER  WITH  SCRAPERS MAK- 
ING A  HOE  SCRAPER PLUMBERS'  AND  ROOFERS* 

SCRAPERS SCRAPING  AND  FILING BOILING  THE 

TOYS  IN  A  LYE  BATH VENT  HOLES 

IT  frequently  happens  that  more  solder  is  ap- 
plied to  the  joints  than  is  needed  to  cement  the  work 
together  or  that  the  solder  is  left  in  a  rather  rough 
or  lumpy  state  due  to  the  inexperience  of  the  worker. 

The  beginner  should  be  in  no  wise  discouraged  if 
this  is  so,  for  there  is  a  certain  knack  in  soldering 
neatly  and  this  is  only  acquired  by  experience  and 
by  closely  observing  the  simple  rules  governing 
the  operation. 

The  beginner  should  be  sure  that  enough  solder 
is  applied  to  hold  the  work  firmly  together.  The 
surplus  solder  may  be  scraped  away  by  using  a 
simple  scraper  shaped  like  a  hoe.  An  old  knife  is 
also  useful  for  cutting  away  lumps  of  solder.  An 
old  file  or  rasp  which  has  very  coarse  teeth  may  be 
used  to  file  away  solder.  A  finely  cut  file  should 
never  be  used  to  file  solder  as  the  fine  teeth  will 
clog  up  with  solder  and  the  file  be  rendered  useless 
for  any  further  work. 


PREPARING  THE  TOYS  FOR  PAINTING  201 

Making  a  Hoe  Scraper. — A  hoe  scraper  may  be 
made  from  a  cheap  screw  driver,  such  as  those  ob- 
tainable from  the  5-and-io  cent  stores.  The  end  of 
the  screw  driver  that  is  applied  to  the  screw  is  heated 
red  hot  (a  dull  red).  It  is  then  placed  quickly  be- 
tween the  jaws  of  a  vise  so  that  the  jaws  grasp  it 
about  y*  inch  from  the  end  and  before  the  steel  has 
time  to  cool,  it  is  bent  over  like  a  hoe,  see  Fig.  97. 

Use  a  flat  fine-toothed  file  to  file  the  cutting  edges 
to  about  the  angle  shown  in  the  enlarged  drawing  of 
the  working  end  of  the  hoe  scraper. 

When  the  tool  is  filed  into  shape,  heat  the  end 
again  to  a  dull  red  and  plunge  it  quickly  in  a  pail  of 
water  several  times  until  it  is  entirely  cold.  The 
tool  is  then  ready  for  use. 

The  hoe  scraper  is  a  very  simple  tool  to  use.  The 
cutting  edge  is  simply  dragged  with  slight  pressure 
over  the  solder  to  be  removed,  and  will  remove  a 
little  solder  each  time  it  is  dragged  over  it.  This 
tool  may  be  sharpened  easily  with  a  smooth  file  or 
on  a  grindstone  when  it  becomes  dull. 

Do  not  try  to  remove  too  much  solder  at  once 
and  do  not  take  away  too  much  solder  from  the 
joint  as  you  will  weaken  it.  Simply  smooth  up  the 
solder  so  that  it  will  look  well  when  painted  over. 

Plumbers'  and  Roofers'  Scrapers. — Two  very 
handy  scrapers  may  be  purchased  from  a  dealer  in 
tinners'  tools.  One  of  them  is  called  a  Plumbers' 
Scraper  and  is  shown  in  Fig:  97.  The  other  is  called 


202 


MAKING  TIN  CAN  TOYS 


a  Roofing  Scraper  and  is  shown  in  Fig.  97.  Either 
of  these  tools  will  prove  very  useful  for  remov- 
ing solder. 


ftoofin&  SCRAPER 


FIG.  97. 

Boiling  the  Toys  in  a  Lye  Bath. — When  the  toys 
are  completely  assembled  and  before  they  are 
painted  they  should  be  thoroughly  boiled  up  in  a  lye 


PREPARING  THE  TOYS  FOR  PAINTING  203 

bath  to  remove  all  grease,  soldering  paste  or  acid, 
paper  or  painted  labels,  etc. 

The  lye  bath  is  made  by  adding  two  heaping 
tablespoon fuls  of  lye  or  washing  soda  to  the  gallon 
of  boiling  water.  Lye  or  washing  soda  may  be  pur- 
chased at  any  grocery  store. 

The  lye  solution  should  be  mixed  up  in  an  old 
wash  boiler  or  a  large  can  or  pail,  placed  over  a  hot 
fire  and  kept  boiling  gently  during  such  time  as  the 
toys  are  immersed  in  the  lye  bath.  Enough  lye  solu- 
tion should  be  made  up  so  that  at  least  half  of  the 
article  to  be  cleaned  will  be  covered  with  it.  The  toy 
is  left  in  the  bath  until  that  part  of  it  which  is  cov- 
ered with  the  solution  is  clean.  It  is  then  removed 
from  the  bath,  rinsed,  and  then  that  part  of  the  toy 
that  remains  to  be  cleaned  is  placed  in  the  solution. 
The  whole  toy  should  be  thoroughly  rinsed  with 
warm  water  when  it  is  finally  removed  from  the  lye 
bath.  Make  sure  that  it  is  thoroughly  dry  and  also 
that  any  water  or  lye  solution  that  may  have  gotten 
inside  any  partially  sealed-up  parts  of  the  toy  is 
removed  before  attempting  to  paint  it. 

Take  care  not  to  place  the  hands  in  the  lye  solu- 
tion, hot  or  cold,  as  it  is  very  injurious  to  the  skin. 
Any  lye  solution  accidently  spilled  on  cloth  will  eat 
holes  in  it  unless  washed  out  with  plenty  of  water 
immediately.  The  work  should  be  handled  with 
wire  hooks  when  lifting  it  out  of  the  lye  bath. 


204 


MAKING  TIN  CAN  TOYS 


A  fresh  lye  bath  should  be  made  up  occasionally 
as  it  loses  its  cleansing  power  in  proportion  to  the 
work  boiled  up  in  it.  Lye  may  be  added  to  a  bath 
already  made  up  if  this  bath  has  not  accumulated 
too  much  dirt. 


VET1T  IfitL 

FIG.  98. 

Vent  Holes. — If  a  can  is  used  to  represent  a 
boiler  or  is  made  up  into  a  drum-like  structure,  such 
as  a  wheel,  and  is  not  soldered  up  air  tight,  it  is  apt 
to  fill  up  with  the  hot  lye  solution  when  placed  m  it. 
Unless  there  are  two  air  holes  or  vents  provided  in 
such  a  boiler  or  wheel,  the  lye  or  water  will  not  all 
run  out  when  it  is  removed  from  the  bath,  but  it 
will  ooze  out  from  time  to  time  perhaps  after  the  toy 


PREPARING  THE  TOYS  FOR  PAINTING  205 

has  been  painted  for  some  time.  The  lye  thus  liber- 
ated will  ruin  all  paint  with  which  it  conies  in  contact. 
At  least  two  vent  holes  should  be  punched  or 
bored  in  all  drum-like  structures  employed  about 
the  toys,  one  hole  at  the  top  to  admit  air  and  another 
hole  at  the  bottom  to  allow  the  water  or  lye  solution 
to  escape.  These  vent  holes  are  particularly  neces- 
sary in  wheels  that  are  made  from  cans,  see  Fig.  98. 


CHAPTER  XXII 
NOTES  ON  PAINTING  THE  TOYS 

THE  tin  toys  should  be  painted  with  a  good  grade 
of  enamel  paint.  Enamel  paints  have  varnish  mixed 
with  them  and  dry  hard  and  glossy  and  form  a  very 
durable  and  attractive  finish  for  the  toys. 

There  are  several  popular  brands  of  these  enamel 
paints  on  the  market  and  almost  any  of  them  will 
give  good  results  if  properly  applied. 

Several  colors  should  be  purchased  to  start  with, 
black,  white,  cherry  red,  chrome  yellow,  prussian  or 
royal  blue.  With  this  assortment  of  colors,  it  is 
possible  to  get  a  variety  of  shades  by  mixing.  A  can 
of  vermilion  and  a  can  of  khaki-colored  enamel 
paint,  as  well  as  small  cans  of  gold  and  silver  and 
bronze  paint,  will  prove  very  handy  additions  to  the 
above  collection  of  colors.  The  vermilion,  gold 
and  silver  paints  are  used  to  paint  certain  details  of 
the  toys  that  need  to  be  emphasized. 

Be  sure  to  keep  all  the  cans  of  paint  tightly  cov- 
ered when  not  in  use,  so  that  the  paint  will  not  dry 
up  and  become  thick  and  gummy  from  contact  with 
the  air. 

Several  paint  brushes  should  be  purchased  at  the 
paint  dealers,  the  largest  brush  should  be  of  soft 
206 


NOTES  ON  PAINTING  THE  TOYS       207 

hair  about  */*  inch  wide,  and  the  smallest  brush  a 
tiny  pointed  one  for  detail  and  line  work.  Always 
keep  these  brushes  covered  with  turpentine  after 
using  them  or  wash  them  out  immediately  after 
by  scrubbing  them  on  a  cake  of  soap  with  plenty 
of  warm  water. 

Cut  several  small  cans  down  to  tray  size  and  use 
them  for  mixing  the  paint. 

Always  stir  up  a  can  of  paint  before  using  it. 
Use  a  small  stick  for  stirring  and  keep  at  it  until  the 
paint  is  thoroughly  mixed.  Enamel  paints  may  be 
thinned  with  turpentine  and  a  bottle  of  this  should 
be  kept  on  hand. 

Do  not  use  your  paint  too  thick.  It  should  be  of 
such  a  consistency  as  to  drip  slowly  from  the  brush 
before  the  brush  is  wiped  against  the  side  of  the  can 
to  remove  the  surplus  paint  upon  commencing 
the  work. 

Be  sure  to  mix  up  enough  paint  to  cover  the 
entire  surface  to  be  painted  if  using  mixed  colors, 
as  it  is  very  difficult  to  mix  a  second  batch  of  the 
same  shade  of  color. 

Think  how  you  are  going  to  apply  your  paint 
before  starting.  Try  to  plan  your  painting  so 
that  you  will  not  have  to  work  over  a  painted  sur- 
face a  second  time  until  that  surface  is  thoroughly 
dry.  The  paint  should  be  applied  smoothly  with 
a  brush.  Just  enough  paint  should  be  held  in  the 


208  MAKING  TIN  CAN  TOYS 

brush  so  that  it  flows  onto  the  tin  without  streaks  of 
the  tin  showing  through  the  paint. 

Generally  speaking,  you  should  start  at  the  top  of 
a  piece  of  work  and  paint  down.  Each  fresh  brush 
stroke  should  overlap  the  one  above  it  and  mop  up 
any  surplus  paint  of  the  former  brush  strokes. 

Paint  the  intricate  parts  first  and  then  the  plain 
surfaces.  For  instance,  when  painting  the  aeroplane 
weathervane,  use  a  small  brush  and  paint  the  struts 
first,  then  paint  around  the  bases  and  tops  of  the 
struts  on  the  surface  of  the  planes.  Change  the 
small  brush  for  a  larger  one  and  flow  more  paint 
over  the  surface  of  the  planes,  gathering  up  the  paint 
around  the  ends  of  the  struts  as  you  paint  along. 

When  painting  a  large  model,  such  as  an  army 
truck,  and  not  being  quite  sure  of  the  quantity  of 
paint  needed,  mix  up  enough  paint  to  paint  all  the 
parts  of  the  model  that  show  the  most  and  leave  such 
parts  as  the  bottom  of  the  frame  and  the  inside  of 
the  body  until  last.  If  you  have  to  mix  up  more 
paint  for  these  last  parts  it  will  not  matter  if  it  is 
not  exactly  the  same  shade. 

If  you  have  not  had  very  much  experience  in 
mixing  and  combining  colors,  it  is  generally  better 
to  use  the  different  tints  just  as  they  come  from  the 
cans,  without  trying  to  mix  them. 

Do  not  use  too  many  colors  on  one  toy,  but  try 
to  get  a  pleasing  effect  with  two  or  three  colors  that 
look  well  together.  For  instance,  a  truck  may  be 


NOTES  ON  PAINTING  THE  TOYS       209 

painted  an  olive  green  or  khaki  color  over  its  entire 
surface,  excepting  the  front  of  the  radiator  which 
should  be  painted  with  silver  paint. 

When  the  first  coat  of  paint  is  thoroughly  dry, 
lines  of  black  may  be  painted  about  the  body  and 
various  edges  emphasized  with  black.  The  hubs  of 
the  wheels,  the  lamps,  the  rim  of  the  steering  wheel, 
and  the  filler  cap  on  the  radiator  may  all  be  painted 
black  with  good  effect.  The  part  of  the  wheels 
which  is  supposed  to  represent  the  tires  should  be 
painted  a  dark  gray.  (Gray  may  be  made  by  mix- 
ing black  and  white  together.) 

Study  the  large  trucks  seen  about  the  streets  for 
inspiration.  These  large  trucks  are  nearly  always 
very  simply  and  attractively  painted. 

Real  locomotives  are  painted  black  at  present, 
but  a  small  toy  locomotive  looks  much  better  if  the 
wheels  are  painted  red  (vermilion).  A  red  band 
may  be  painted  about  the  top  of  the  smokestack 
and  the  tin  strips  framing  the  cab  windows  should 
be  painted  red,  as  may  the  number  of  the  engine,  etc. 

The  whistle  should  be  painted  with  gold  paint 
and  also  the  inside  of  the  headlight,  and  broad  lines 
may  be  painted  about  the  boiler  with  gold  to  repre- 
sent the  straps  seen  about  locomotive  boilers. 

Paint  the  tires  of  the  engine  wheels  with  silver 
paint.  The  driving  rods  may  be  painted  either 
black  or  silver. 

A  toy  locomotive  thus  painted  will  prove  far 


210  MAKING  TIN  CAN  TOYS 

more  attractive  to  a  child  than  if  it  is  painted  a  plain 
black  like  a  real  locomotive. 

Generally  speaking,  the  toys  should  be  painted 
one  dominating  color  of  an  attractive  tint  and  re- 
lieved or  brightened  with  lines  and  certain  details 
painted  with  a  bright  or  contrasting  color. 

Always  allow  one  coat  of  paint  to  dry  thoroughly 
before  painting  on  it  again. 

Tin  toys  may  be  baked  in  an  oven  when  they  are 
freshly  painted.  The  baking  dries  the  enamel  paint 
very  quickly  and  tends  to  make  the  paint  dry  very 
hard  and  smooth.  The  baking  oven  of  a  coal  or  gas 
range  will  do  very  well  for  the  baking,  but  be  very 
sure  that  the  oven  is  not  too  hot,  as  a  hot  oven  will 
cause  the  solder  to  melt  and  the  toys  to  fall  apart. 
It  is  better  to  leave  the  oven  door  opened  slightly 
when  baking  the  painted  toys  over  a  slow  fire. 

It  is  not  necessary  to  bake  the  toys  after  painting 
as  they  may  be  simply  left  to  dry  in  the  air. 

Always  paint  slowly  and  carefully.  Toys  that 
are  attractively  painted  to  match  good  construction 
are  much  more  satisfactory  than  a  well-made  toy 
poorly  painted. 


INDEX 


Aeroplane  weathervane,    187- 
191 

Ambulance  body,  154,  155 

Anvils,  40,  41 

Appliances,  shop,  39-43 

Ash  trays,  86-93 

Assembling   auto   truck,    139- 
145 

Auto  truck,  making,  107-145 
army,  153-155 
axles,  114 
bodies,  146-156 
cabs,  165 
chassis,  118-12b 
coal  truck,  152,  153 
dash  board,  135-138 
drilling  holes   in  wheel 

centers,  113,  114 
fire  engine,  155,  156 
fittings,  161-165 
hood,  127-134 
horns,  163 
lights,  161-163 
mud  guards,  160 
radiator,  125-134 
soldering   filler   cap   on 

radiator,  132-134 
soldering  seat,  138 
soldering  wheels  to  axles, 

141-143 

starting  crank,  157,  158 
stearing  wheel,  159 
street  sprinkler,  151-153 
tank  truck,  151 
tool  boxes,  163,  164 
vents  or  louvers  in  hood, 

130-132 

washers  for  axles,  143- 
145 


Auto  truck  wheel  centers,  find- 
ing, 37,  38 

wheel  making,  107-118 
wheel,    making  hole  in 
center,  112-114 


Bench,  work,  41,  42 

Bending  strips  of  tin  to  design, 

81-83 

wire  in  vise,  157 
Biscuit  cutter,  44-53 
Block,  punching  and  forming, 

50 

Bodies,  ambulance,  154,  155 
auto  truck,  146-156 
<x>al,  152 

different  bodies  fitted  to 
same  chassis,  149-156 
fire  engine,  155,  156 
street  sprinkler,  151,  152 
tank,  151 
Boats,  166-175 

battleship,  171,  172 
ferry,  172,  173 
row,  166,  167 
sail,  167, 168 
scow,  167 
tug,  169-171 
Burns,  remedy  for,  26 


Cabs,  truck,  165 
Cabs,  locomotive,  176.  177 
Camp  equipment,  195-199 
canteen,  196 
coffee  pot,  195 
cooking  pails,  196 
frying  pan,  196 
hot  water  bottle,  196 


212 


INDEX 


Camp  equipment,   match  box, 

199 

shower  bath,  196-199 
toaster,  196 

Candlesticks,  94-99,  192,  193 
Cars,  railroad,  178-181 
Charcoal   and   wood   fires   for 
heating    soldering    coppers, 
59,  60 
Chassis,   forming   truck,    118- 

126 
Cleaning  and  scraping  tin  for 

soldering,  71-73 
cans,  21-25 

Connecting  rods   for   locomo- 
tive, 177,  178 
Cooky  cutters,  79-85 
Cuts,  remedy  for,  26 
Cutting  away   surplus   tin   at 

can  rims,  101,  102 
holes  in  tin  with  chisel,  96,  97 
into  cans,  22-24 
narrow  strips  of  tin,  80.  81 
Cylinders,  locomotive,  177,  178 


Dash  boards,  truck,  135-138 
Dividers,  spring,  33 
Double  cutting  shears,  24 
Drilling  hole  in  wheel  centers, 
113,  114. 

E 

Electrical  soldering  coppers,  60, 
67.68 

F 
Filing  tin,  45,  46 

the  soldering  copper,  63-65 
Fire  engine,  155.  156 
Fittings  for  truck,  161-165 
Flux,  applying,  74 
Fluxes  for  soldering,  55,  62-70 
Folding  tin  by  hand,  50,  51 
hatchet  stake,  123-125 
vise,  123 

wooden    roofing    folder, 
120-123 


Forming  chassis  for  truck,  118- 

126 

mallet,  42,  43 
using,  87-91 

Forming  a  wire  handle,  105, 106 
Frying  pan,  196 


Galvanized  wire,  sizes,  30 
used  for  axles,  114 

Gas  furnace  for  heating  solder- 
ing coppers  58,  59 

Gasoline     torch     for     heating 
soldering  coppers,  58,  59 


Handle,    forming    for    biscuit 

cutter,  49-53 
Hatchet  stake  used  for  folding, 

123-12o 

Heating  apparatus  for  solder- 
ing coppers,  55-60 

soldering  coppers,  65-68 
Hood,  truck,  127-134 
Horns,  truck,  163 
Hot  water  bottle,  196  * 

I 
Ice  pick  used  as  punch,  112,  113 


Killed"    or    soldering    acid, 
making,  68-70 


laying  out  work,  32-39 
Lantern,  192.  193 
Lights,  truck,  161.  162 
Locomotive,  174-179 

boiler,  176 

cab,  176 

connecting  rods,  177,  178 

cylinders,  177,  178 

fittings,  178 

frame,  174-177 


INDEX 


213 


Locomotive  wheels,  177 
Lugs  for  pail  handle,  102-105 
Lye  bath,  description,  20 

used  for  cleaning  cans,  72, 
73 

M 

Marking  awl,  32 
off  work,  32,  33 
line  around  a  can,  22 
Match  box,  199 

holder  and  ash  tray,  91-93 
Materials   needed   aside   from 

cans,  30 
Mechanical  toys,  182-191 

aeroplane       weathervane, 

187-191 
sandmills,  182 
steam  turbine  and  boiler, 

182,  183 

water  wheels,  182 
windmill,  187 

Melting  off  can  lids,  110,  111 
Metal  shears,  25 
Mud  guards  for  truck,  160 


Notes  on   painting   the   toys, 
206-210 


Oil    stove    used    for    heating 
soldering  coppers,  56-61 


Painting  tin  can  toys,  206-210 
Paints  used  for  tin  can  toys, 

206 
Points    to    remember    about 

soldering,  75-77 
Preparing  cans  for  toy  making, 
20-22 

toys  for  painting,  200-205 
Punches,  47-49 
Punching  a  hole  in  tin,  46-49 


Punching  holes  with  ice  pick, 

112,  113 
holes  in  radiator,  129 


Radiator,  truck,  127-134 
Riveting,  100,  103-105 
Rivets,  30 

Running  boards,   truck,    160, 
161 


Sandmills,  182 
Sconces,  wall,  192 
Scrapers,  201,  202 
home-made,  201 
plumbers'  and  roofers',  201, 

202 
Scraping  away  surplus  solder, 

200-202 
Seat,  truck,  138 
Sheet  tin,  54 
Shower  bath,  196-199 
Smokestack  for  locomotive,  178 
Soft  solder,  54 

other  methods  of  applying 

78 

Soldering,  54-70 
candlestick,  99 
cleaning  and  scraping  for, 

71-73 

cooky  cutter,  83-85 
filler  cap  on  radiator,  132- 

134 

heating  apparatus  for,  55-60 
hood  and  radiator  to  truck 

chassis,  139 
"Killed  Acid,"  making,  68- 

70 

narrow  strips  of  tin,  81-83 
paste,  62,  63 
other  methods  of  applying, 

78 
points  to  remember  about, 

75^77 

practice  piece,  73-78 
process,  55 


214 


INDEX 


Soldering,  scraping  away  sur- 
plus solder,  200-202 
soft  solder,  54 
strips  of  tin   to   flat   piece 

83 

wheels  to  axles,  141-143 
copper  or  "iron,"  60-62 
cleaning    with     "  killed 

acid,"  63-67 
electrical,  60,  67.  68 
filing,  63-65 
fitting  handle  to,  62 
heating,  65-68 
tinning,  63-68 
Springs,  truck,  140,  141 
Squaring   up   a   piece   of   tin, 

34,35 

Starting  crank,  157,  158 
Steam  turbine,  182,  183 
Stearing  wheel  and  column,  159 
Street  sprinkler,  151-153 
Strip  washers  for  axles,  143-145 
Strips  of  tin,  cutting,  36,  37, 

80,81 

Supplementary  tool  list,  31,  32 
Sugar  scoop,  53 
Surface  gauge,  using,  38,  39 


Tank  truck,  151 

Tin  cans  used  for  toys,  19,  20 

sheet,  54 

strips,  cutting,  36,  37,  80,  81 
Tinning  soldering  copper,  61-68 
Toaster,  196 
Tool  boxes  for  truck,  163,  164 

lists  and  costs,  29-32 
Tools,  28-32 


Try  square,  33,  34 
Turbine,  steam,  182,  183 
Turning  edges  on  round  trays. 
86-91 


Vent  holes  for  draining,    204, 

205 
Vents  or  Louvers,  cutting  in 

hood,  130-132 
Vise,  description,  39,  40 

used  for  bending  wire,  157 

used  for  folding,  132 

W 
Washers,  strip,  for  axles,  143- 

145 

Water  wheels,  182 
Wheels,  making,  107-118 
axles  for,  114 
centers,  finding,  37,  38 
drilling    holes    in    center, 

113,  114 

from  tin  cans  with  rolled- 
rim  ends,  117,  118 
from  tin  cans  with  soldered 

ends,  108-114 
ice  pick  used  for  making 
holes  in  centers,  112, 113 
locomotive,  177 
sand,  182 

soldering  to  axles,  141-143 
water,  182 
windmill,  187 
Wire,  galvanized,  sizes,  30 
used  for  wheel  axles,  114 
Wood  chisel  used  for  cutting 
tin,  131-132 


I 


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